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Temporary de-winterize


l98ycar

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I am about to purchase a 2000 Escape 23 LSV, the one remaining thing I need to do is hear it run, shift it into gear, etc. It is a LS1 with closed cooling. The boat is currently winterized and I do not trust Michigan weather enough to leave water in the cooling system but I probably do not need to do a full winterization. I think I have two options - First, I could do as some of you have and run it on RV antifreeze keeping a 5 gal bucket full, feeding it through the raw water inlet hose. The second option would be to run it on a garden hose, then drain the heat exchanger, raw water system, exhaust manifolds, and transmission - I think these will all drain fairly completely. Option 2 will let me run the boat longer and bring it up to temp, it will also be cheaper. I do all of my own work on my current boat (a 1987 Wellcraft) but have no experience with inboards. I have read up on winterization on this site (not much info on closed cooling boats though) so I think I can find all of the drains. What are your thoughts?

I have looked over pretty well - it comes with complete maintainance records - just needs some detail work. It has one torn seat and will need some more interior work over the next couple of years but this seams pretty typical for this vintage - I will probably order a full interior from Chee and replace as I go. Anything else in particular I should be looking for?

Thanks,

Scott

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I am about to purchase a 2000 Escape 23 LSV, the one remaining thing I need to do is hear it run, shift it into gear, etc. It is a LS1 with closed cooling. The boat is currently winterized and I do not trust Michigan weather enough to leave water in the cooling system but I probably do not need to do a full winterization. I think I have two options - First, I could do as some of you have and run it on RV antifreeze keeping a 5 gal bucket full, feeding it through the raw water inlet hose. The second option would be to run it on a garden hose, then drain the heat exchanger, raw water system, exhaust manifolds, and transmission - I think these will all drain fairly completely. Option 2 will let me run the boat longer and bring it up to temp, it will also be cheaper. I do all of my own work on my current boat (a 1987 Wellcraft) but have no experience with inboards. I have read up on winterization on this site (not much info on closed cooling boats though) so I think I can find all of the drains. What are your thoughts?

I have looked over pretty well - it comes with complete maintainance records - just needs some detail work. It has one torn seat and will need some more interior work over the next couple of years but this seams pretty typical for this vintage - I will probably order a full interior from Chee and replace as I go. Anything else in particular I should be looking for?

Thanks,

Scott

This doesn't directly answer your questions about winterization, but...

If you don't buy it, it's not your problem, right? So assuming you buy it where are you going to keep it. If there is a possibility you can keep it in your garage for another month or so, you can make sure you keep it above 32 degrees in there.

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Regardless of how you run it, on a hose other the lake, you'll need to drain everything afterwards.... engine, exhaust, heater, shower, etc. There is no way to "temporarily" dewinterize the boat.

Good luck with the purchase.

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If it has closed cooling, you should not have to do anything, correct?

No, you still have to drain the water out of the raw water sections of the heat exchangers, raw water pump, boat heater (if it has one), etc. Closed cooling still sucks in lake water to cool the heat exchangers, it just keeps raw water out of most areas of the engine.

Scott (OP),

Careful about putting it into gear when on the trailer - there is no water in the propshaft packing and it will make a horrific noise and do quick damage via friction if you're not careful. I would not put the boat in gear out of the water.

I bought my current boat sight unseen, never heard it run, etc. But it was the same owner the last 6-7 years, had all maintenance records, and you could just tell the guy was a straight shooter.

You could also give the guy a deposit to hold the boat a few more weeks and then request an actual water test.

-- Mike

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No, you still have to drain the water out of the raw water sections of the heat exchangers, raw water pump, boat heater (if it has one), etc. Closed cooling still sucks in lake water to cool the heat exchangers, it just keeps raw water out of most areas of the engine.

Scott (OP),

Careful about putting it into gear when on the trailer - there is no water in the propshaft packing and it will make a horrific noise and do quick damage via friction if you're not careful. I would not put the boat in gear out of the water.

I bought my current boat sight unseen, never heard it run, etc. But it was the same owner the last 6-7 years, had all maintenance records, and you could just tell the guy was a straight shooter.

You could also give the guy a deposit to hold the boat a few more weeks and then request an actual water test.

-- Mike

2nd the actual water test!

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2nd the actual water test!

3rd the actual water test, also donot put an inboard in gear out of the water. The shaft seal is liquid cooled and lubricated. you can do damage if you put it in gear dry.

Good luck and you will have to drain the system, really isnt that hard. I start draining the water out of mine in late Oct and use it until late Nov.

REW

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Thanks for all of the feedback - I will not put it in gear out of the water. I want to leave it at the storeage location (a dealer even though this is a private sale) for a couple more months as I need to get my current boat ready to sell (and do not need 2 boats in the driveway). I do not think I can talk the owners into waiting until I am ready for a water test but with the service history and the condition of the boat I am pretty comfortable.

Thanks again

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Thanks for all of the feedback - I will not put it in gear out of the water. I want to leave it at the storeage location (a dealer even though this is a private sale) for a couple more months as I need to get my current boat ready to sell (and do not need 2 boats in the driveway). I do not think I can talk the owners into waiting until I am ready for a water test but with the service history and the condition of the boat I am pretty comfortable.

Thanks again

If it makes you feel comfortable, then go ahead and fire it up on the hose. That is the best option so you can get it to temp, etc. In my 2002 owners manual, the winterization for closed cooling looks really easy - raw water pump, heat exhangers, and I think there is a hose that you uncouple as well. Easy. If Vdrive, most of the Vdrives have cooling lines - it will probably take all of 20 minutes to drain it once done, no big deal.

Good luck with your purchase, that boat should fly with the LS1 option.

-- Mike

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I'd put it on the sellers to worry about this, who would buy a boat, car or anything with an engine without hearing it run.

If you buy the boat pay the dealer to winterize it with you watching, those LS1's are a different animal and having someone show you the ropes is important.

-Chris

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