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2006 247 LSV 8.1


idsII

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I'm thinking about buying the above mentioned boat. Anything I should look for in particular? My kids are little, is this boat too big for slow wakeboarding? Will the wake crash at slow speed compared to a 23? Also how is the surfing?

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great boat and great engine i have an 08 with the 8.1 the difference between a 247 and a 23 is only length is the 23 is an 08 or newer and i do not think length will effect wake much. I don't think the wake is bad for learning on with the 247 I have taught a few people on my boat. and as far as the 247 the 07 has the newer all welded power wedge and then in 08 you get he MUX switches in place of the rocker switches and the 08 boats can be upgraded to maliview which cost in the 3-4k range if that is of interest to you. If the 06247 your looking at is in Atlanta then i may have already looked at it and you probably want to message me and i can tell you what I found with them

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great boat and great engine i have an 08 with the 8.1 the difference between a 247 and a 23 is only length is the 23 is an 08 or newer and i do not think length will effect wake much. I don't think the wake is bad for learning on with the 247 I have taught a few people on my boat. and as far as the 247 the 07 has the newer all welded power wedge and then in 08 you get he MUX switches in place of the rocker switches and the 08 boats can be upgraded to maliview which cost in the 3-4k range if that is of interest to you. If the 06247 your looking at is in Atlanta then i may have already looked at it and you probably want to message me and i can tell you what I found with them

Great info - thanks for sharing! I am looking for a 23 wakesetter with 8.1, but considered that blue boat in Buford, GA too. Im curious - what did you find out?

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there is a service bulletin recommending gasket replacement between the risers and manifold on an annual basis. That can check your oil regularly. 8.1 will burn it under normal use.

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Does the 8.1L have any issues? Other than a healty appetite for gas?

Maybe not as bad as you think given it works less hard than smaller blocks.

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Does the 8.1L have any issues? Other than a healty appetite for gas?

Don't all 247 love to burn gas...hence the name Lake Limo

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Chevy Big Blocks Love Fuel.

But the power is worth it.

And you can tell the difference in the sound they make.

Different firing order than the small block 350.

My favorite quote from my Dad around 1960 "There is no substitute for cubic inches".

Edited by DONTW8
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I have an '04 8.1 and the two service bulletins I know of are the dipstick change for accomodating 2 additional quarts of oil (thank you Paul at Bakes) and the switch from 15w 40 to straight 40 weight.

Gas usage is very dependent on how you drive it, like anything. Most first timers in the boat notice two things about the engine; the sound it is not louder just much deeper in tone and the second thing is the fact when you load it down with people and ballast it still has one hell of a hole shot. I have an OJ prop on mine and it will still do almost 50 with 4 people in the boat but at that speed i think you mesure the fuel consumption in barrels per hour.

I have almost 600 hours on the engine with zero issues.

-Dave

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I have an '04 8.1 and the two service bulletins I know of are the dipstick change for accomodating 2 additional quarts of oil (thank you Paul at Bakes) and the switch from 15w 40 to straight 40 weight.

here's the gasket one, sorry for the copy and paste

Indmar Products

5400 Old Millington Road

Millington, TN 38053

Phone 901-353-9930

Fax 901-358-4292

SERVICE ADVISORY

Date: April 15, 2010

Advisory SV2010-1

Subject: 8.1L Aluminum Manifolds and Risers

We have had reports of water/coolant leaks between the risers and exhaust manifolds in the two

piece aluminum riser/manifold assemblies used with the 8.1L engines. Effective immediately, in

addition to the gasket, Indmar will be sealing those manifold/riser joints with Permatex Form-AGasket

#1 Sealant.

We recommend for units in the field that these gaskets be replaced and sealed on an annual

basis. If there are any signs of external or internal water leakage at the manifold/riser joint the

gaskets must be replaced and Permatex Form-A Gasket #1 sealant applied. Use the procedure

as follows:

Remove the exhaust riser from the manifold and clean any gasket material from the

sealing surfaces.

Use a straight edge to determine if the sealing surfaces of the manifold and riser are flat.

If the surfaces are not flat, remove the manifold from the engine. Place a piece of

abrasive paper on a flat surface and work the manifold and riser sealing surfaces back

and forth over the abrasive paper till the surfaces are flat.

Clean any abrasive residue from the manifold and exhaust riser. Clean any sealant from

the exhaust ports on the manifold and from the cylinder head. Apply a new bead of

silicone sealant around the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Install the exhaust

manifold on the engine. Torque the screws starting in the center and alternately working

to the ends. Tighten to 19 lb ft (26 Nm) on the first pass then to 26 lb ft (35 Nm) on the

second pass.

Apply a thin film of Permatex Form-A-Gasket #1 Sealant to both sides of a new S531017

riser gasket and allow to air dry until the sealant becomes tacky. Note: If the engine is a

jet or has a full closed cooling system, apply the sealant to two S531047 riser block off

gaskets.

Place the sealed riser gasket on the exhaust manifold. Place the riser on the manifold

and install the riser hold down screws. Tighten in a diagonal pattern to 26 lb ft (35 Nm) on

the first pass. Tighten to 35 lb ft (47 Nm) on the second pass. Note: If the engine has a

full closed cooling system, install a gasket, the block off plate and another gasket before

installing the riser.

Repeat procedure for other side.

Connect and tighten the hoses to the exhaust manifolds and risers. Apply cooling water

to the engine, start it and let the engine come up to temperature. Check for leaks. Repair

as necessary. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. Re-torque the risers to 35 lb ft (47

Nm).

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So does the water/coolant leak into the crankcase? How many hours to do the annual gasket replacement?

Since no one smarter than me responded yet....I think the gasket they are referring to is at the exhaust manifold, so it does not leak water into the engine, just into the bilge. Someone should confirm that before you believe it. :( :(

Interesting that IIUC, I replaced the same gasket on my brand new 2009 8.1 L Indmar engine. There was a calcium trail where water had been leaking down the exhaust manifold.

As far as gas consumption...it can be thirsty if heavily ballasted and going fast. With small amounts of ballast, fuel consumption was only a little more than my previous boat with a 5.7L engine. But could be double that much when cruising 35 MPH with a boat full of people. Hole shot did not change whether the boat was ballasted or not :rockon: :rockon:

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here's the gasket one, sorry for the copy and paste

Indmar Products

5400 Old Millington Road

Millington, TN 38053

Phone 901-353-9930

Fax 901-358-4292

SERVICE ADVISORY

Date: April 15, 2010

Advisory SV2010-1

Subject: 8.1L Aluminum Manifolds and Risers

We have had reports of water/coolant leaks between the risers and exhaust manifolds in the two

piece aluminum riser/manifold assemblies used with the 8.1L engines. Effective immediately, in

addition to the gasket, Indmar will be sealing those manifold/riser joints with Permatex Form-AGasket

#1 Sealant.

We recommend for units in the field that these gaskets be replaced and sealed on an annual

basis. If there are any signs of external or internal water leakage at the manifold/riser joint the

gaskets must be replaced and Permatex Form-A Gasket #1 sealant applied. Use the procedure

as follows:

Remove the exhaust riser from the manifold and clean any gasket material from the

sealing surfaces.

Use a straight edge to determine if the sealing surfaces of the manifold and riser are flat.

If the surfaces are not flat, remove the manifold from the engine. Place a piece of

abrasive paper on a flat surface and work the manifold and riser sealing surfaces back

and forth over the abrasive paper till the surfaces are flat.

Clean any abrasive residue from the manifold and exhaust riser. Clean any sealant from

the exhaust ports on the manifold and from the cylinder head. Apply a new bead of

silicone sealant around the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Install the exhaust

manifold on the engine. Torque the screws starting in the center and alternately working

to the ends. Tighten to 19 lb ft (26 Nm) on the first pass then to 26 lb ft (35 Nm) on the

second pass.

Apply a thin film of Permatex Form-A-Gasket #1 Sealant to both sides of a new S531017

riser gasket and allow to air dry until the sealant becomes tacky. Note: If the engine is a

jet or has a full closed cooling system, apply the sealant to two S531047 riser block off

gaskets.

Place the sealed riser gasket on the exhaust manifold. Place the riser on the manifold

and install the riser hold down screws. Tighten in a diagonal pattern to 26 lb ft (35 Nm) on

the first pass. Tighten to 35 lb ft (47 Nm) on the second pass. Note: If the engine has a

full closed cooling system, install a gasket, the block off plate and another gasket before

installing the riser.

Repeat procedure for other side.

Connect and tighten the hoses to the exhaust manifolds and risers. Apply cooling water

to the engine, start it and let the engine come up to temperature. Check for leaks. Repair

as necessary. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. Re-torque the risers to 35 lb ft (47

Nm).

Well thank you for taking the time to put this service bulletin up. I will have to check for leaks the next time I go out. As to the post just above this one I have not noticed any water in my crankcase and change the oil about every 50 hours.

-Dave

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Since no one smarter than me responded yet....I think the gasket they are referring to is at the exhaust manifold, so it does not leak water into the engine, just into the bilge. Someone should confirm that before you believe it. :( :(

Interesting that IIUC, I replaced the same gasket on my brand new 2009 8.1 L Indmar engine. There was a calcium trail where water had been leaking down the exhaust manifold.

As far as gas consumption...it can be thirsty if heavily ballasted and going fast. With small amounts of ballast, fuel consumption was only a little more than my previous boat with a 5.7L engine. But could be double that much when cruising 35 MPH with a boat full of people. Hole shot did not change whether the boat was ballasted or not :rockon: :rockon:

Doesn't have to do with preferring it leak in the bilge. The gasket between risers and manifold should show no water seepage. If there is, that suggests that there is potential that the water is also seeping through an area it should not be internally and up to the cylinders.

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