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Deep scratch repairs


Michigan boarder

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On my '94 Echelon LX I have some pretty deep nicks. Some in the white part of the gel, in inconspicuous places which don't stand out, but also some in the red, in which you can see the white underneath (see pic). I know the obvious fix - take it to a body shop. Since I've pretty much blown my 2011 boat budget and am eyeballing new dash components for next year, a professional repair is not likely. So the next option would be getting gel coat color matched and making the repair myself. Maybe next year, but for now I'm running out of time, the boat is 2 hours away and I've still got a stereo to install, plus work to do on the lake house, etc. I've looked on line a bit and there are colored waxes, and some wax sticks to use too. Are any of those worth the effort? Do they hold up?

post-8942-075848700 1299765953_thumb.jpg

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You can kinda sorta hide them by wetsanding them down so they're smooth and then buffing, blends it in.

Not in this case, they are thru the red and into the white. I can't blend the white into the red, there's just no gelcoat there.

I would do it right. Probably just cost $100 and do it yourself.

That's my thought for next year. Just looking at a quick fix for this year.

Take a look on Youtube for a gelcoat tutorial. If you're compitant at following directions you might want to do it yourself.

It's not going to be fun to match colors from a 94...even with the spectrum kits.

I'm confident that I can get it to look good myself. Yes, it's a '94 valued at maybe $13k on the high end. It's gonna have some imperfections. On one hand, a decent repair will keep your (my) eye from catching the ding. On the other hand, a poor repair will look worse than the ding.

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Sounds like you can not sand them down if the are nicks or gouges. The right way to do it is to fill them/sand/compound/polish.

I have a 97 and there in no way in hell that your gel coat with match with what spectrum sells due to the age of the boat. Even with my white gel coat - the spectrum kit was so far off it was embarrassing. With red - you will be even worse off than I.

Here is what I did. If found an inconspicuous place on the boat that had the color gel coat I wanted to repair. This happened to be under the front grab rail in the bow. I removed the whole rail and got out the air was and cut out a 1" x 1" square of gel coat and fiberglass. The reason I did this under the hand rail was so that I could go back and put that same piece back in and fill it with gel coat and finish it out. Under the grad rail is an area that no one really sees.

I sent the piece to Gel Coat Products in Seattle and they used their spectrometer to make me a quart of matched gel coat. I had the add Cabosil to the gel coat so that it would be a peanut butter consistency and I could spread like you would the spectrum color product.

I know that it was crazy to cut a piece of the boat out - but if you are thinking that you are good enough to fill in some gelcoat chips and finish them out -then you are good enough to epoxy in a piece of fiberglass and gel coat, add a little more gel coat and then finish it out. Wherever you decide to cut a square of the boat makes sure that it is an area that you can access from the top and bottom and well as a non load bearing area.

You are probably looking at $130 for a quart of matched gel coat - keep in the fridge when not using so it will last longer.

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Great idea Murphy! There was a guy on Wakeworld that did a bunch of gel coat repairs on an older red Nautique. His name on there is "G". His work turned out great. Although everything Grant touches turns out really nice.

I will see if i can find his old posts. They were very detailed as well.

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The hardest part of gel coat repair is the color match.

When you can get an exact match - it makes its so easy.

There are also ways to feather in your sanding technique in order to transition a repair area when dealing with a color that is just slightly off from the original color

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Before cutting into the boat, did you research having a local body shop with a spectrum analyzer taking a reading and then sending the data to the gel coat company?

I am fortunate enough to have a body shop here that has told me they can make up custom gel coats, but I would gladly pay two people if I had to before cutting a hole out of my boat. That is also a testament to my (lack of) skills and patience, though. I mean to get that piece back in and perfect again, even if no one will ever see it. Stuff like that bothers the crap out of me. As it is, all the current damage can be blamed on the previous owner, and I'm fine with that, but if I did more damage myself it would bother me.

MB - My boat is the same color as yours, so if I have some repair work done, I will ask about shipping some matching gel over to you. My boat won't be out of the garage for at least a month, though with the now 8' snow piles in my driveway.

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Before cutting into the boat, did you research having a local body shop with a spectrum analyzer taking a reading and then sending the data to the gel coat company?

I am fortunate enough to have a body shop here that has told me they can make up custom gel coats, but I would gladly pay two people if I had to before cutting a hole out of my boat. That is also a testament to my (lack of) skills and patience, though. I mean to get that piece back in and perfect again, even if no one will ever see it. Stuff like that bothers the crap out of me. As it is, all the current damage can be blamed on the previous owner, and I'm fine with that, but if I did more damage myself it would bother me.

MB - My boat is the same color as yours, so if I have some repair work done, I will ask about shipping some matching gel over to you. My boat won't be out of the garage for at least a month, though with the now 8' snow piles in my driveway.

Hey, thanks! I could see cutting into the gel like Murphy said, no worries there. My rubrail needs replacing, I could pull that off and have a perfect spot that is easy to repair. But if you get it color matched, well that's waayyyy easier.

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Not in this case, they are thru the red and into the white. I can't blend the white into the red, there's just no gelcoat there.

I know exactly what you're talking about, wetsanding the rough edge smooth and hitting it with a rotary buffer will help "blend" in the edges. I used to wield a buffer 6 days a week when I worked at the dealership, and you can blend in a scratch into the white. It's not going to fix it but it can make it less noticeable to everyone but you.

Maybe I'll key my smashed-bu and take some pics to show you what I'm talking about, going to be a few weeks though.

-Chris

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Hey, thanks! I could see cutting into the gel like Murphy said, no worries there. My rubrail needs replacing, I could pull that off and have a perfect spot that is easy to repair. But if you get it color matched, well that's waayyyy easier.

I think you might have misunderstood me, no worries if thats the case. I cut a piece of gelcoat out from underneath the metal hand rail.

I can promise that the gelcoat under your rub rail is a different shade of color that the rest of your boat due to not getting sun exposure underneath the rub rail. You want to get a sample area that gets sun and weather like the rest of the boat

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I know exactly what you're talking about, wetsanding the rough edge smooth and hitting it with a rotary buffer will help "blend" in the edges. I used to wield a buffer 6 days a week when I worked at the dealership, and you can blend in a scratch into the white. It's not going to fix it but it can make it less noticeable to everyone but you.

Maybe I'll key my smashed-bu and take some pics to show you what I'm talking about, going to be a few weeks though.

-Chris

Gotcha. I think I should just get the gelcoat repair instead, though, as that is my eventual repair anyway. It's been a while since I've done that type of work, but from what I remember it's a lot easier to fill and feather a sharp gouge then a smooth one.

And please don't key that poor thing! Hasn't she been thru enough??!??:Tease3:

I think you might have misunderstood me, no worries if thats the case. I cut a piece of gelcoat out from underneath the metal hand rail.

I can promise that the gelcoat under your rub rail is a different shade of color that the rest of your boat due to not getting sun exposure underneath the rub rail. You want to get a sample area that gets sun and weather like the rest of the boat

Well, what I was thinking was that under the rubrail would be easy to repair. Under the bow rail will double my work, as I would have to make it look perfect again. I've wetsanded the boat and fee pretty good that I am at the original color, especially as I removed 15 year old decals from the transom and sanded the "shadow" out. I think JK13 has a good idea with just taking it to a body shop with spectrum analyzer.

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Cool - I hear you.

Post some pics of whatever you end up doing.

I have a couple or repair areas I need to do. I think i am going to post a picture heavy DIY gel coat repair in the next summer.

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When you fill the gelcoat you have to make the scratch V shaped anyway.

And I've already hit the boat with a sledgehammer. Also had my brother sawsall the freeboard on one side down to the floor, makes climbing in and out much easier.

EDIT - if you were able to get the shadows out from 15 year old gelcoat then just go ahead and order a kit from spectrum. Your boat must have been taken care of for awhile, I've had newer boats that I could not remove the shadows on, even with 320 grit - on the white portions anyway.

-Chris

Edited by 99response
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If you totally run out of time to do it correctly, a magic maker will at least cover the white. Since it's only March and the midwest is going to get another snow storm you probably have some time to do it right. Excellent tips on the process from everybody posting, much appreciated.

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martinarcher

Sounds like you can not sand them down if the are nicks or gouges. The right way to do it is to fill them/sand/compound/polish.

I have a 97 and there in no way in hell that your gel coat with match with what spectrum sells due to the age of the boat. Even with my white gel coat - the spectrum kit was so far off it was embarrassing. With red - you will be even worse off than I.

Here is what I did. If found an inconspicuous place on the boat that had the color gel coat I wanted to repair. This happened to be under the front grab rail in the bow. I removed the whole rail and got out the air was and cut out a 1" x 1" square of gel coat and fiberglass. The reason I did this under the hand rail was so that I could go back and put that same piece back in and fill it with gel coat and finish it out. Under the grad rail is an area that no one really sees.

I sent the piece to Gel Coat Products in Seattle and they used their spectrometer to make me a quart of matched gel coat. I had the add Cabosil to the gel coat so that it would be a peanut butter consistency and I could spread like you would the spectrum color product.

I know that it was crazy to cut a piece of the boat out - but if you are thinking that you are good enough to fill in some gelcoat chips and finish them out -then you are good enough to epoxy in a piece of fiberglass and gel coat, add a little more gel coat and then finish it out. Wherever you decide to cut a square of the boat makes sure that it is an area that you can access from the top and bottom and well as a non load bearing area.

You are probably looking at $130 for a quart of matched gel coat - keep in the fridge when not using so it will last longer.

That's what I did on my last boat, but instead of cutting a hole for nothing, I cut a 1" hole for an additional stainless thru hull fitting for my ballast system. Rockon.gif

I sent the "puck" I cut out to Spectrum and they sent me a gallon, yes a gallon of color matched gel. The minimum Spectrum will mix for a custom color is a gallon.

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I think i am going to post a picture heavy DIY gel coat repair in the next summer.

That would be great, and I was thinking the same thing.

When you fill the gelcoat you have to make the scratch V shaped anyway.

And I've already hit the boat with a sledgehammer. Also had my brother sawsall the freeboard on one side down to the floor, makes climbing in and out much easier.

EDIT - if you were able to get the shadows out from 15 year old gelcoat then just go ahead and order a kit from spectrum. Your boat must have been taken care of for awhile, I've had newer boats that I could not remove the shadows on, even with 320 grit - on the white portions anyway.

-Chris

It took 400 grit to get it out, lots of step ups with paper and a lot of polishing at the end. I'm guessing I've gotten it pretty low, and a vinyl wrap will be in this boats future at some point. That's gotta be kind of neat with the busted boat, like an autopsy.

If you totally run out of time to do it correctly, a magic maker will at least cover the white. Since it's only March and the midwest is going to get another snow storm you probably have some time to do it right. Excellent tips on the process from everybody posting, much appreciated.

Ha! You know, we never hit the dunes for sledding this year, so I would actually welcome one last shot of snow. But no, I don't have the time, the boat is 2 hours away and the next time I'm at the lake will be April 1 thru 10 for spring break, when I need to install a stereo, put in the lift, do some house repairs and also spend as much time with the family as possible.

That's what I did on my last boat, but instead of cutting a hole for nothing, I cut a 1" hole for an additional stainless thru hull fitting for my ballast system. Rockon.gif

I sent the "puck" I cut out to Spectrum and they sent me a gallon, yes a gallon of color matched gel. The minimum Spectrum will mix for a custom color is a gallon.

A gallon outta do it.:crazy:

Then again, I have a boy that just turned 12 and will be going thru the safety class this year and will start driving this summer. Do I even bother?????

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What grit are you guys using for wet sanding? 1200, 2000 grit? I have a mark on the side of my boat in the light gray area that I would like to try and get out. What kind of buffing wheels? I don't what to make it worse.

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Boarder, here is a project to add to your list particularly with additional riders. Add a ski stop to the platform that will keep the ski/obard from hitting the transom. Easy to do, just a piece of teak attached on the top of the platform, full width does a nice job. I made mine basically the same size as the dividers in the original platform, many new platforms now have them.

A DIY gel coat repair post would be awesome and very valuable, great suggestion and offer, thanks.

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Boarder, here is a project to add to your list particularly with additional riders. Add a ski stop to the platform that will keep the ski/obard from hitting the transom. Easy to do, just a piece of teak attached on the top of the platform, full width does a nice job. I made mine basically the same size as the dividers in the original platform, many new platforms now have them.

A DIY gel coat repair post would be awesome and very valuable, great suggestion and offer, thanks.

I've seen that, MalubuNation has one of those too. So far I don't know where the chips and dings have come from, but not from boards or skis (so far). But, that was with the old Echelon platform, where I would teach people to put the board edge in between the slats for stability. With the new platform they may slide the board around more. We'll see, it's a good idea.

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I have noticed that some people like to hang on to the platform to remove thier ski/board. The potiential, since the natural tendency is to face the boat, is to bump the transom with the ski/board, that would be a likely time to get a chip/ding. I pretty much make sure that people take the ski/board off before grabbing the platform or I make sure that I am there to gently guide the ski away from the back of the boat as they remove the offending hardware.

There is a product called helicopter tape, I have used it frequently on race car wings, does a pretty good job of protecting the surface. Downside, it is not the most visually appealing and I am not sure how well it would really work on a wetted surface.

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I have noticed that some people like to hang on to the platform to remove thier ski/board. The potiential, since the natural tendency is to face the boat, is to bump the transom with the ski/board, that would be a likely time to get a chip/ding. I pretty much make sure that people take the ski/board off before grabbing the platform or I make sure that I am there to gently guide the ski away from the back of the boat as they remove the offending hardware.

There is a product called helicopter tape, I have used it frequently on race car wings, does a pretty good job of protecting the surface. Downside, it is not the most visually appealing and I am not sure how well it would really work on a wetted surface.

3m makes a product similar if not the same as the clear plastic car bra's that cn be applied to the transom to protect against board dings and scratches. check it out.

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