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drain pumps


board brained

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question for the crew,

has anyone installed ballast pumps that auto shut off if they run dry? when I added my rear ballast to the switches this winter I went with 1100 GPH pumps that had this feature. Issue I have is because I have installed the drain pumps basically to the floor directly below the exit through hulls the pump seems to have trouble priming (ie shuts off). I have only tried it when the boat is on the driveway and the bag was only 25% full.

should I move the pumps to the back of the bag? so instead of having 4 ft of hose between the bag and the pump put the quick connect fitting basically on the pump and have it at the drain of the bag? or should I just wait til I get the boat back in the water and see if the line stays full and prime the pump.....

as always thanks in advance guys

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question for the crew,

has anyone installed ballast pumps that auto shut off if they run dry? when I added my rear ballast to the switches this winter I went with 1100 GPH pumps that had this feature. Issue I have is because I have installed the drain pumps basically to the floor directly below the exit through hulls the pump seems to have trouble priming (ie shuts off). I have only tried it when the boat is on the driveway and the bag was only 25% full.

should I move the pumps to the back of the bag? so instead of having 4 ft of hose between the bag and the pump put the quick connect fitting basically on the pump and have it at the drain of the bag? or should I just wait til I get the boat back in the water and see if the line stays full and prime the pump.....

as always thanks in advance guys

Having the drain at the back/bottom of the bag works the best IMO. But don't attach the pump directly to the bag it will get crushed by the weight of the bag. I run a 1.5' section of hose from that location on the back/bottom of the bag to the drain pump I have mounted in the bilge. This will let you drain the bag completely when you have the bow higher than the bag.

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Having the drain at the back/bottom of the bag works the best IMO. But don't attach the pump directly to the bag it will get crushed by the weight of the bag. I run a 1.5' section of hose from that location on the back/bottom of the bag to the drain pump I have mounted in the bilge. This will let you drain the bag completely when you have the bow higher than the bag.

I might look at that, mounting in the bilge seems like a great idea.......thanks

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Having the drain at the back/bottom of the bag works the best IMO. But don't attach the pump directly to the bag it will get crushed by the weight of the bag. I run a 1.5' section of hose from that location on the back/bottom of the bag to the drain pump I have mounted in the bilge. This will let you drain the bag completely when you have the bow higher than the bag.

that is a good idea, i will make that change in my setup.

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I might look at that, mounting in the bilge seems like a great idea.......thanks

I have mine at the front and I believe thats how Paul from Bakes sets up most customers. Paul sent me a link to some shotos I think on Facebook but cant seem to find it. I like the pumps at the front as they sit under the seats and dont get damaged by the bag. I currently have mine directly attached to the bag but just received my quick connects from Paul so it wont be direct anymore.

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I have mine at the front and I believe thats how Paul from Bakes sets up most customers. Paul sent me a link to some shotos I think on Facebook but cant seem to find it. I like the pumps at the front as they sit under the seats and dont get damaged by the bag. I currently have mine directly attached to the bag but just received my quick connects from Paul so it wont be direct anymore.

I put the boat in the water yesterday and everything worked great. guess the boat has to be in the water and a fake a lake hooked up is not enough water.

my drain pumps are up in the front tucked away and they work great, drained the bags really well. I plumbed in 1 1/8 hose and wholly crap do they fill fast. the draining is hilarious as the hose reduced to the 3/4 through hull it shoots the water 6 ft out............

anyway it is done and I am happy, all brass fitting should stand up to the salt water so bring on the season!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Board Brained. I loved the comment about the reduction from 1-1/8 pipe through the 3/4" hull fitting. It's gonna be fun having your boat taking a L_ _ K when you are arriving at the ramp to put it on your trailer.

Many of you know that the flow of water is restricted by the smallest orifice in the run. My point is that a 1" pipe that is restricted through a 3/4" fitting that goes back into a 1" pipe is only going to flow as much as the 3/4" restriction allows.

The flow through a pipe is basically a function of the square inches of that pipes's area.

Example: Assume a 1" pipe . PI (3.1416) x radius squared so .5 X .5 = .25 X 3.1416 = .7854

But if you go to a 1-1/8" pipe: radius is .5625, so .5625 x .5625 = .3164 x 3.1416 = .9940

The 1-1/8" pipe will flow .9940/.7854 or 126% of the 1 " pipe.

The same equation for a 3/4" pipe computes to .4417 so that reduction from1-1/8" is 44% of the capacity. Hence the squirtgun effect at your hull fitting.

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Board Brained. I loved the comment about the reduction from 1-1/8 pipe through the 3/4" hull fitting. It's gonna be fun having your boat taking a L_ _ K when you are arriving at the ramp to put it on your trailer.

Many of you know that the flow of water is restricted by the smallest orifice in the run. My point is that a 1" pipe that is restricted through a 3/4" fitting that goes back into a 1" pipe is only going to flow as much as the 3/4" restriction allows.

The flow through a pipe is basically a function of the square inches of that pipes's area.

Example: Assume a 1" pipe . PI (3.1416) x radius squared so .5 X .5 = .25 X 3.1416 = .7854

But if you go to a 1-1/8" pipe: radius is .5625, so .5625 x .5625 = .3164 x 3.1416 = .9940

The 1-1/8" pipe will flow .9940/.7854 or 126% of the 1 " pipe.

The same equation for a 3/4" pipe computes to .4417 so that reduction from1-1/8" is 44% of the capacity. Hence the squirtgun effect at your hull fitting.

lol, that is a great use of math skills.

here i thought the water shooting out was caused by sending the same volume of water thru a smaller diameter hose. Who knew?

While there is a 44% reduction of the capacity from 1 1/8" to 3/4", the 3/4" can easily handle the volume put out by the 1,100gph pump as the 3/4" hose has a capacity of 2,200gph.

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Board Brained. I loved the comment about the reduction from 1-1/8 pipe through the 3/4" hull fitting. It's gonna be fun having your boat taking a L_ _ K when you are arriving at the ramp to put it on your trailer.

Many of you know that the flow of water is restricted by the smallest orifice in the run. My point is that a 1" pipe that is restricted through a 3/4" fitting that goes back into a 1" pipe is only going to flow as much as the 3/4" restriction allows.

The flow through a pipe is basically a function of the square inches of that pipes's area.

Example: Assume a 1" pipe . PI (3.1416) x radius squared so .5 X .5 = .25 X 3.1416 = .7854

But if you go to a 1-1/8" pipe: radius is .5625, so .5625 x .5625 = .3164 x 3.1416 = .9940

The 1-1/8" pipe will flow .9940/.7854 or 126% of the 1 " pipe.

The same equation for a 3/4" pipe computes to .4417 so that reduction from1-1/8" is 44% of the capacity. Hence the squirtgun effect at your hull fitting.

yep I figured that one out, but I wanted the 1 inch fill which is all the way, pump to bag, i got the hose at a deal so went with the 1 inch on drain as well

I definitely would not loose a boat to boat water fightROFL.gifROFL.gifROFL.gif

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