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Stock prop ok....


Wakesetter67

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I was wondering if anyone with a 2010 VLX has changed the stock prop, or maybe a better question.... should I ?? unfortunatly Im not sure what my stock prop is, and what would be the advantage if any to change it....I like having a spare......

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You probably have the ACME 537. It doesn't sound like you do anything to crazy like loading your boat down with alot of ballast I'd stick with the stock prop. If you are looking at getting another there are props out now that would provide better hole shot with additional weight and still keep the top end. You can find used and sometimes even new 537 props on this site in the classifieds for cheap.

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You probably have the ACME 537. It doesn't sound like you do anything to crazy like loading your boat down with alot of ballast I'd stick with the stock prop. If you are looking at getting another there are props out now that would provide better hole shot with additional weight and still keep the top end. You can find used and sometimes even new 537 props on this site in the classifieds for cheap.

Well I just installed two 750lb sacks in rear storage, but does not seam like you need a ton of hole shot to pull a surfer...what size prop are most using for better low end?
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Your factory prop could be one of many, in 2009 Tennessee was using different stock props than Merced. In 2010 they introduced a new prop, the Acme 1939 a 14.5 x 15 prop that got the best of both worlds of the Acme 537 and the Acme 1235. Dealers sometimes changed the prop when ordered the boat too so the only way to know what you have is looking at the hub to identify it.

Here is a factory application chart I put together for Malibu Boats, I'm in the middle of working on another chart that shows what props and the steps to upgrade to.

Once you figure out what prop you have,feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail and let me know how you use your boat, how much weight your adding, and what motor you have and I would be glad to give you some input what i think you should upgrade to. It's pretty amazing how much better a boat can perform with the right prop on it.

-Paul

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Your factory prop could be one of many, in 2009 Tennessee was using different stock props than Merced. In 2010 they introduced a new prop, the Acme 1939 a 14.5 x 15 prop that got the best of both worlds of the Acme 537 and the Acme 1235. Dealers sometimes changed the prop when ordered the boat too so the only way to know what you have is looking at the hub to identify it.

Here is a factory application chart I put together for Malibu Boats, I'm in the middle of working on another chart that shows what props and the steps to upgrade to.

Once you figure out what prop you have,feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail and let me know how you use your boat, how much weight your adding, and what motor you have and I would be glad to give you some input what i think you should upgrade to. It's pretty amazing how much better a boat can perform with the right prop on it.

-Paul

Thanks for the info on the 1939. Can you elaborate a little more on the performance of this prop Paul. I run the 1235, while great for surfing or a full boat of ballast and crew the VTX (Monsoon 350) revs really high! How much will the 1939 bring down those RPM's?

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Your factory prop could be one of many, in 2009 Tennessee was using different stock props than Merced. In 2010 they introduced a new prop, the Acme 1939 a 14.5 x 15 prop that got the best of both worlds of the Acme 537 and the Acme 1235. Dealers sometimes changed the prop when ordered the boat too so the only way to know what you have is looking at the hub to identify it.

Here is a factory application chart I put together for Malibu Boats, I'm in the middle of working on another chart that shows what props and the steps to upgrade to.

Once you figure out what prop you have,feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail and let me know how you use your boat, how much weight your adding, and what motor you have and I would be glad to give you some input what i think you should upgrade to. It's pretty amazing how much better a boat can perform with the right prop on it.

-Paul

I will take a look, As I remember the boat ran out real strong, but if we can improve on it, and I will have a spare prop... just might have to get one...Thanks Paul. Edited by Wakesetter67
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Thanks for the info on the 1939. Can you elaborate a little more on the performance of this prop Paul. I run the 1235, while great for surfing or a full boat of ballast and crew the VTX (Monsoon 350) revs really high! How much will the 1939 bring down those RPM's?

No problem, Acme pretty much made 2 props that are in-between the 1235 and the 537, I'm working on a application chart for upgrading your prop right now so i just happen to have all these details on hand!!!!!!!!

  1. 2079 ------- 14.50 X 12.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup (most torque/acceleration)
  2. 1615 ------- 14.50 X 13.75 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  3. 1235 ------- 14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  4. 1273 --------14.50 X 14.25 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup
  5. 1939 -------- 14.00 X 15.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  6. 537 -------- 13.50 X 16.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  7. 381 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  8. 817 -------- 13.50 X 17.50 VL4B 1.125"Bore .150Cup
  9. 907 -------- 13.50 X 19.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .105Cup
  10. 417 -------- 14.00 X 20.00 VL4B 1.125"Bore .130Cup (most speed if boat has the power to turn the pitch)
    One question for you though your RPM's typically run higher when you go to a higher pitched prop, when you run a lower pitched prop your RPM's will be higher at a slower speed (for example at 40 MPH you were at 4500 RPM with a lower pitched prop you could run 4,800 RPM at 40 MPH). Moving to a prop with more torque/acceleration you will give up top end speed (hence the higher RPM at slower speed).
    Hope that helps you out some
    -Paul

Edited by Bake's Marine
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I will take a look, As I remember the boat ran out real strong, but if we can improve on it, and I will have a spare prop... just might have to get one...Thanks Paul.

These are the questions i always like to ask when somebody wants to better boats performance for how they want it, feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail me the answers to these questions and we can definitely get you into a prop you will be happy with!

Some important things to look for, or ask, if/when changing the prop on a boat:

  1. What is the year and model of the boat (direct drive or V-drive... and gear reduction, if known)?
  2. What is the size, or part number, of the current prop (including the shaft/bore dia.... it's also a good idea to verify the rotation; just to be safe)?
  3. What is the horsepower of the engine... and the rated RPMs for the engine?
  4. What is the actual WOT RPM reading, and top speed, with the current propeller?
  5. Which application is the boat is being used for primarily? (e.g. wakeboarding, wakesurfing, skiing, barefooting, etc.)
  6. How much weight is being added to the boat (e.g., factory ballast, fat sacs, extra people, etc.)?
  7. If the boat is being used primarily, or occasionally, above 2500 ft elevation, what is the elevation that the boat is being used at?

Cheers!

-Paul

Edited by Bake's Marine
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We are at about 5000 feet elevation and have been very happy with the 1235. My previous boat had the 537 on. It also performed well although that was a smaller boat and we never loaded it too much. My spare is a 1235 as well.

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As previously stated the Acme 537 is the stock prop, while it does ok, load up all the stock ballast and the boat (people) and it shows it’s weakness especially above 2k in elevation (LBC). I’d suggest another alternative to the Acme line the OJ #475 14.25 X 14.5 LC 1 1/8" 4-BLADE .090 CUP as an option. I might even consider changing the CUP to .100 or .105. They also offer the Fusion line which is less expensive as it is a cast of the CNC’d prop.

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Dude just a small correction on the OJ fusion. The only difference between the XMP Edge and fusion is that the Edge has a CNC finish and the Fusion is hand finished. I have used both and performed they perfectly, the one thing I did notice is the Fusion was able to have a little higher RPM.

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Hey Vince-

Let's hook up the next time you take the boat out so we can see what you think with the additional surf weight in the rear of the boat. We'll grab a couple of props from the warehouse (we do that too) that will probably work best for you guys so you can try them out. Since you're using the boat for foiling and the occasional slalom run I'm guessing you won't need all of the low speed performance of the 1235, but we can stick one on so you can give it a try.

How's the remodel going? Did you guys make the trip down this weekend?

Jason

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Hey Vince-

Let's hook up the next time you take the boat out so we can see what you think with the additional surf weight in the rear of the boat. We'll grab a couple of props from the warehouse (we do that too) that will probably work best for you guys so you can try them out. Since you're using the boat for foiling and the occasional slalom run I'm guessing you won't need all of the low speed performance of the 1235, but we can stick one on so you can give it a try.

How's the remodel going? Did you guys make the trip down this weekend?

Jason

That would be great, always looking for riders....Im starting to re think going with rear ballast sac's in the lockers, although they do weigh the boat down....they dont pitch in for gas....I still think Human Ballast is the way to go with gas prices these days...We will hook up soon, count down to spring!!!!
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  • 3 months later...

Anyone running the 1615 on a VLX with a monsoon 340 yet? I'm running the 1235 but would like a little bit more get up and go. Looks like this will help, just not sure how much! Thanks-

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Anyone running the 1615 on a VLX with a monsoon 340 yet? I'm running the 1235 but would like a little bit more get up and go. Looks like this will help, just not sure how much! Thanks-

I'm running the same setup as you hands down if you want more out of the hole the OJ 468 (14.25 x 14) will do that, but you'll be 1k + rpm's and burn more fuel but loaded w/ factory ballast, wedge and maxed out on crew even at 2,300' it did well. Unless I traveled a VERY small area anything lower would definitely hit the rev limiter and blow through fuel. Though you could offset some of that but increasing the CUP size on the 1615 (14.50 x 13.75).

Until April 30th we have a group buy on props going......FYI

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Anyone running the 1615 on a VLX with a monsoon 340 yet? I'm running the 1235 but would like a little bit more get up and go. Looks like this will help, just not sure how much! Thanks-

What kind of weight are you running in this thing? What is the Alt in Seattle?

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I'm running stock quad ballast, plus 1500 in the rear, plus ~750 in the front, plus 400 in the walkway. so that 3950 plus any people and then there is always the power wedge... altitude is less than 1k at pretty much any lake in Washington state, most are more in the 3-600' range. Is the 468 the best bet? or the 1615? Trying to figure it out before the group buy ends!!! Thanks-

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That would be great, always looking for riders....Im starting to re think going with rear ballast sac's in the lockers, although they do weigh the boat down....they dont pitch in for gas....I still think Human Ballast is the way to go with gas prices these days...We will hook up soon, count down to spring!!!!

Vince,

If you are using your boat with full ballast, wedge and surfing a lot I wouild recommend you go with the ACME 1235 or OJ XMP Fusion 532. Both of these are really good props for low end torque. I have the ACME 1939 on my VLX and I am switching it out with my spare XMP 532 this week. I will keep the 1939 for a spare... I have been out twice with my VLX and I noticed a definite difference between the 1939 and the 532. Much slower holeshot, and a really big difference when the ballast is full or using the wedge. The boat with the 1939 has a difficult time getting on plane. I ran the 532 on my Supra and it was awesome, especially if you have more than 4 or 5 people in the boat. I towed 6 wakeboarders/6 passengers on Lake Shasta last year with with the XMP and it pulled them up with no problems at all.

IMO, the reduction in top speed is a small sacrafice for the low end torque you get with the 532 or 1235. You will probably top out at 41-42 MPH @ 5200 RPMs with the lower end torque props. I find I typically cruise the boat at 30-35 MPH without feeling like I am over reving the motor.

Just my .02....

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post-15179-055020100 1303788849_thumb.jp

Edited by Fman
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Do you travel to you ride spot? Or just unload and ride immediately type of scenario? I know with the 468 I don't do much if any cruising, just burns too much fuel.

Generally, I don't do much cruising at all. Just pull off the dock, past the no wake zone and we are riding. I was thinking of keeping my 1235 for times like later this summer when we go on a houseboat trip and I know I will be driving the boat much greater distances, although not at that great of speeds.

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(OJ) #468 - 14.25 X 14 LC 1 1/8" 4-BLADE .110 CUP

(OJ)#514 - 14.75 X 13 LC 1 1/8" 4-BLADE .110 CUP

(ACME)#1615 14.50 13.75 .075 cup 4-Blade 1 1/8" LH

(ACME)#1235 14.50 14.25 .105 cup 4-Blade 1 1/8" LH

So, I'm currently running the 1235, but looking at the 4 props above, it looks like the 514 and the 1615 will pull more weight if I am not worried about needing to cruise. Any thoughts?

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Keep in mind most vendors will allow you to exchange props, obviously only if there is no damage, until you find the one that works for you. A one-inch reduction in propeller pitch will result in an increase of 150 to 200 RPM at full throttle. The cupping on the 514 is better though I'm sure the 1615 can be modified as well. The 514 will pull like a beast, but you running rpm's will be much higher than the 1235 but it'll increase you hole shot.

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I would have to agree with Eric on this one, not many people load it down that heavy but sure the 514 will pull like no other.

Disclaimer; Make sure prop will clear trailer prop guard.

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Thanks Goose. I will have to put it on the trailer in order to put the prop on..so I'll take a close look then. I think it will be ok. I don't remember it being close when I put my 1235 on.... I have a Ryan trailer, if anyone thinks it is any issue, I would love to hear it in advance! Thanks-

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