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Raw water pump leaking


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Raw water pump is leaking after an impeller change. It's leaking out of the back so I am assuming I blew out the seal between the pump and the shaft.

How do I replace this seal? Do I need to remove the pump in order to change out the seal, or can it be done with the pump still in place? (On a VDrive).

If I DO have to remove it, how? After removing the impeller, mounting bolts, and hoses, the pump spins, but doesn't pull off. Is there another bolt inside the pump that needs to be removed? Do I need a puller of some sort?

Also, Is there anyway to slow the leak down until I change out the seal? My bilge pump can still keep up with the leak, but I'd like to minimize it as much as possible.

Thanks!

-gvb

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mine is leaking as well, but my understanding is that I'll have to replace the water pump itself, which I'm getting ready to order from SkiDIM while they have a 12% thanksgiving discount going on. I have a DD so I can't help you with the removal/install particulars, but it does sound like its new water pump time. One of these real wrench turning gearheads can tell you for sure...I'm just a dumb Mississippi banker.

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Hi,

Mr. knuckle busting wrencher here.

I've heard that as soon as the raw water pump begins to leak from the rear that you need to fix it right away. I seem to remember someone posting about how he had let it leak for awhile and it ended up damaging something else.

Anyway, if it just started leaking, apparently you can get just the seal. You'd probably want to call skidim and talk to them to make sure you get the right one if you can't find it on their website. I'm pretty sure they have it.

It would probably be easier to do the job if you removed the pump. If I remember correctly, after disconnecting all the hoses to it and un-bolting the brackets that hold it in place, I seem to remember some allen head bolts that bolted it to the large round black thing directly behind it. Take a look and tell lus if you see it now.

The first couple of times I changed out my impeller I took a bathroom style hand held mirror and put it down there. I also put a battery powered lantern in the area so I could see. You can do the whole job from the observer side trunk. Take out the black plastic engine side cover, DO NOT KNEEL ON IT it will warp and stay warped.

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mine is leaking as well, but my understanding is that I'll have to replace the water pump itself,

Looks like I SHOULD be able to just replace that seal.

I've heard that as soon as the raw water pump begins to leak from the rear that you need to fix it right away. I seem to remember someone posting about how he had let it leak for awhile and it ended up damaging something else.

Hmm... I've never taken the pump off, so I'm not sure of the construction, but as long as that seal only keeps water in the pump, and not water out of the timing cover or something like that, I don't see why it would need to be an immediate repair

Anyway, if it just started leaking, apparently you can get just the seal. You'd probably want to call skidim and talk to them to make sure you get the right one if you can't find it on their website. I'm pretty sure they have it.

Yea... wish I had access to Vince 24/7 ;)

It would probably be easier to do the job if you removed the pump. If I remember correctly, after disconnecting all the hoses to it and un-bolting the brackets that hold it in place, I seem to remember some allen head bolts that bolted it to the large round black thing directly behind it. Take a look and tell lus if you see it now.

The first couple of times I changed out my impeller I took a bathroom style hand held mirror and put it down there. I also put a battery powered lantern in the area so I could see. You can do the whole job from the observer side trunk. Take out the black plastic engine side cover, DO NOT KNEEL ON IT it will warp and stay warped.

Yea, I'll take a closer look again today. Thanks again for the help.

-gvb

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I think what would happen if you were to let the seal go for awhile is that the shaft would start to "walk" inside the seal or bushing therefore, after a short time the shaft and/or bushing is now damaged and now your looking at replacing the pump itself.

Edited by Pistol Pete
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I think what would happen if you were to let the seal go for awhile is that the shaft would start to "walk" inside the seal or bushing therefore, after a short time the shaft and/or bushing is now damaged and now your looking at replacing the pump itself.

Aye... that makes sense.

Like I said... the bilge can keep up with the leak this weekend and I'll give Vince a call on Monday.

Thanks again.

-gvb

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I happen to be at my dealer yesterday and the subject of raw water pumps came up with the parts guy. I asked him if the seal in the back was replaceable and he said no. Guess you gotta get a whole pump but, see what Vince says.

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Cost vs time you might just as well replace the pump. With free time, you can purchase a rebuild kit for the pump which includes the bearings and seals. You'll need to press out the old bearings and press in the new, and I believe this is needed just to get to the seal. It's been quite a while since we rebuilt one.

Peter

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Are you sure its not just the front gasket thats leaking??? Put that mirror back there and see if thats where the water is coming from. The VLX pump is pretty buried and its easy to not (1) get the gasket bck in place or (2) getting the plate and/or screws in a little off. Also, be sure and check for blockage downstream of your raw water pump. Specifically, take the intake hose off your transmission cooler. See if there is any crude up against that screen just inside. Sometimes you can get enough junk there that will cause the pump to leak - too much back pressure.

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Are you sure its not just the front gasket thats leaking???  Put that mirror back there and see if thats where the water is coming from. The VLX pump is pretty buried and its easy to not (1) get the gasket bck in place or (2) getting the plate and/or screws in a little off. Also, be sure and check for blockage downstream of your raw water pump. Specifically, take the intake hose off your transmission cooler. See if there is any crude up against that screen just inside. Sometimes you can get enough junk there that will cause the pump to leak - too much back pressure.

good thought gordo. i've replaced the impeller and left a leak doing it. just remember that the bolts that secure the front cover over the impeller will take VERY little torque.

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That was me that waited to long to replace the seal at the back (ASSUMING YOU CAN). But leaving it go to long deteriorates the the bearing then the shaft so I did have to replace the whole pump. Probably easier than bearing pressing. The leak is obvious outhe pee hole at back of pump. your leak could be front gasket.

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Thanks for all the replies...

I just pulled the pump off; (3) 3/8" allen head bolts hold the pump base to the motor, (1) 1/4" allen head bolt holds the pump to the bracket, and one more 1/4" allen head bolt and 1/2 nut needs to be loosened to allow the bracket to move.

I pulled the impeller out, and the bearing just fell out in pieces and the seal was destroyed. Good thing I did this now as opposed to still running the boat and having a major failure on the water.

Instead of a rebuild kit, I decided to buy a whole new pump from DIM ($145 shipped) which comes completely assembled including a new impeller (I'll save the other brand new one as an emergency spare, and for the next replacement.) Indmar also recommended just replacing the entire pump due to cost/rebuild labor and the possibility of having a cracked or warped pump housing because of the bearing/seal failure.

The Indmar Monsoon 350 motor came with Johnson Raw Water pump, Indmar part number 68-5001, DIM part number 0603.

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Thanks again for the help!

-gvb

Edited by gvb
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