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V Drive - Drive Shaft Seal


BlknYlwT22

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How often does the seal need to be replaced that seals the hull where the drive shaft sticks through the bottom of the boat? I was told that some of the new boats have a seal that just needs to be re-greased. If this is true, how do i know which seal I have? Thanks for the help.

Edited by 2004WakeSetterVLX
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The shaft packing is lubricated with lake water and should have “x” number of drops per minute. I don’t remember the exact drip rate but someone else will chime in. It is possible you may never have to replace it. Some of that is going to have to do with hours and type of water; clear/muddy, fresh/salt, ect. The only thing in that area I know of that should be greased are the 2 zerk fittings on the rudder.

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The shaft packing is lubricated with lake water and should have “x” number of drops per minute. I don’t remember the exact drip rate but someone else will chime in. It is possible you may never have to replace it. Some of that is going to have to do with hours and type of water; clear/muddy, fresh/salt, ect. The only thing in that area I know of that should be greased are the 2 zerk fittings on the rudder.

Well the boat has 98 hours on it and was used on Lake Havasu in AZ. It was a trailered boat and sat in the garage when it was not in use.

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You were told wrong.

95% change your boat just has a plain old wax rope packing that need to be tightened periodically. Replace when you can't tighten it anymore. Dripless seals didn't really become very common until ~07 but this could vary by region and dealer.

A search will give you lots on info on how to properly adjust and identify the packing.

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You were told wrong.

95% change your boat just has a plain old wax rope packing that need to be tightened periodically. Replace when you can't tighten it anymore. Dripless seals didn't really become very common until ~07 but this could vary by region and dealer.

A search will give you lots on info on how to properly adjust and identify the packing.

can you swap out the wax rope seal with a dripless?

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98 hrs on an 04 boat? Man, that packing is just dried out. It may very well soak up some water over the course of a few days or weeks on the water & probably be fine.

That said, I replaced the old wax rope packing on my 05 with almost 400 hrs on it. I had tightened it twice before, and it still leaked. In fact, the leak rate would change on me, even after it was tightened down. I'd have to leaking at 7 or 8 drips / minute one day. Then find 6" of water in the bilge a day later. I installed the GFO packing listed on Skidim.com's site above & have not had any issues at all. The boat spent about 3 solid months on the water this year, about 80+ hrs.

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It's not that tough. But you have to be a contortionist to get in there. I bought a pick set at Harbor Freight for like $5. Two of the pics were used to fish the old packing out. Then cut & installed 2 layers of the new packing. Tightened it all down. Removed the packing nut again. And installed a 3rd layer. Then snugged it down & took the boat to the lake. We ran it lose for about 10 minutes, to let the new packing get good & wet. Then tightened it down a bit at a time till the dripping virtually stopped. Done.

In the end, it probably took about 30 minutes to complete. But I probably looked at it & debated about it 3 or 4 times before diving in.

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It's not that tough. But you have to be a contortionist to get in there. I bought a pick set at Harbor Freight for like $5. Two of the pics were used to fish the old packing out. Then cut & installed 2 layers of the new packing. Tightened it all down. Removed the packing nut again. And installed a 3rd layer. Then snugged it down & took the boat to the lake. We ran it lose for about 10 minutes, to let the new packing get good & wet. Then tightened it down a bit at a time till the dripping virtually stopped. Done.

In the end, it probably took about 30 minutes to complete. But I probably looked at it & debated about it 3 or 4 times before diving in.

Are the special wrenches required or just nice to have? I need to do this over the winter and I keep forgetting. And ya, I'm to lazy to go to the garage and look....thats why I am asking. :lol:

Edited by Ruffdog
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Are the special wrenches required or just nice to have? I need to do this over the winter and I keep forgetting. And ya, I'm to lazy to go to the garage and look....thats why I am asking. :lol:

You may have to modify or cut a wrench to get in there, but they are not a must, just make it easier.

-Chris

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I picked up a pair of cheap slip nut wrenches locally for under $15. Not quite as easy to use in those tight spaces. But did the job. :rockon:

Are the special wrenches required or just nice to have? I need to do this over the winter and I keep forgetting. And ya, I'm to lazy to go to the garage and look....thats why I am asking. :lol:

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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I still cant break the damn nuts loose! Tried 3 weekends now. Even bought the wrenches. Stupid question....if im facing the rear of the boat...which way do the nuts turn to be loosened. It looks like theyve been tightened down so tight i went ahead and bought new packing. Thanks for answering this prob simple question.

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Hold the big nut steady with a wrench in your left hand. Then with the other wrench in your right hand, & on the smaller jam nut, lift up on it the wrench.

Or lift up on both wrenches.

The packing is inside that big nut. You won't be able to slide it back far enough to see inside though (ain't it great havin a v-drive?). So you have to pick the old packings out blind. I found some inexpensive picks at Harbor Freight that did the job. I've also heard of guys using dental picks.

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