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Engine Inspection


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I am going to buy a 2007 Wakesetter LSV Hammerhead 400 HP. I plan on test driving the boat and check the following:

1) Battery 11-16 volts

2) engine Temp 140-160

3) Oil 6psi @1000rpm. 40 PSI cruising. RPM 300-1000 then oil should be > 4psi . If RPM > 1000 RPMs then oil should be > 18 PSI

4) time from 0 to 30 mph.

5) time from 0 to max 47 mph

6) check RPMs at 10, 20, 30, 40, 47 MPH

7) no water in bilge after lake test

8) check oil and transmission before and after

I am also going to have a malibu dealer do a computer and compression check for $250

Does anyone have a document or checklist as to what else to check for to ensure there is nothing wrong with engine? For example how do you know if there is a cracked block or something else that could be wrong? I am not worried about something that would cost $500 or so to fix. But definitely would not want a $1000 and up job after using the boat for a while.

The boat has also been sitting inside and not used for 1.5 years but always warm temperature. So can this cause any issues? Again, what to look for in this scenario.

Thanks

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Battery voltage should be no lower that 13.5 while running, no higher than 12.5 with the engine shut off. Also use a volt meter that you know is correct (or at least real close) my dash volt meter reads low.

Cracked block will show up in three places, either water in oil (creamy looking oil after running), water in the cumbustion chamber (steam?) or water in bildge.

As for a dry bildge after the lake test. keep in mind the packing for the shaft should drip a little during operation. (not sure of the rate)

Check for water in the bildge before filling theballast as mine leaks a little, not enough to worry about but it will put some water in the bildge.

Top speed will be determined by the prop installed if it has the "high altitude" prop it will suffer on the top end but have better hole shot and better controll of speed while surfing and boarding with a full load of ballast.

Also check every aspect of the electronics for proper operation.

Seams on the upolstry are also areas that should be given a close look.

overall apperance of the baot and the area that it was stored in will tell you alot about the owner, if he/she takes care of his equpipment.

Good luck and DON'T get attached before the boat is inspected and tested.

Now just wait for Pete to check in and fill in the blanks

REW

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Thanks for the nod.

I'd be willing to do a pre-inspection/test drive with you if you're near Santa Cruz CA.

Other than what REW said, if it's been sitting for a year and a half, I'd be concerned about whether or not the fuel was treated, and the engine fogged.

I'd go through the boat with a fine tooth comb way before I got to the water with it. Bring a flashlight but, don't insult the owner. More than likely they took pretty good care of it.

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If it has been sitting that long it will need all fluids changed and you should put in a new impeller. The batteries could be questionable. The engine may run a little rough if the gas was not treated.

You won't know if the engine is burning oil in just one test drive. That doesn't show up for a few hours. You should also note the engines serial number and find out if they got the new dip stick. There is a sticky on this forum from Indmar explaining why.

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Cracked blocks don't always show up the way described above. They can crack and the boat can still be perfectly operational. These are the cracks that show up on the outside of the water jacket and the only way to find them is to pull the side panels and shine your flashlight all along the engine block. Look for signs of water marks running down the side of the block. Cracked/ peeling paint MIGHT also be an indicator.

Edited by Ruffdog
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I am going to buy a 2007 Wakesetter LSV Hammerhead 400 HP. I plan on test driving the boat and check the following:

5) time from 0 to max 47 mph

If the stock prop Acme 537 is on it, it should have decent acceleration and about 47 at WOT. Other props will yield different results. There is a thread on here where we did a lot of testing. You might want to search.

Time trials etc. are kind of useless on a wakeboarding boat. They are made for one purpose. Wakeboarding, wakeskating, surfing, etc. So, you should test those things out. Top end is nice, but realistically no one on here runs there boat WOT very often. Most of us cruise at ~35 mph.

Want you really want to check is how the boat handles and runs at wakeboarding speed, etc. Fill her up and drive her at 21-23 mph. Does it hold speed well or hunt? Have someone ride behind it to get a good idea. Then get your butt behind the boat. You better know how that wake feels. Some people love the 23 LSV wake, some don't. Some prefer the VLX and some the 247. The hull you are looking at was used from 2004 to 2007. So make sure you get input from those guys. The 2008 to present is based off the 247 hull design and is preferred by most over the older version.

Good Luck!

Edited by stewart
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