Added Support For Engine Divider Walls

[Wakesetter67]

No your pre-season workout is lifting that massive Big 15 plus the Harpoon into your boat! Hows that going by the way or do you have a no progress, progress report?

I cant amagine what that would sound like....I just have the 12 and its incrediable, A big 15 that should test the integety of Malibu boats...Forget the rough chop at Detroit lake in the mid afternoon...were talking Big 15 Now you got me thinking.....More More More...sorry I know this is not about stereo stuff...

[Bobby Light]

No your pre-season workout is lifting that massive Big 15 plus the Harpoon into your boat! Hows that going by the way or do you have a no progress, progress report?

As heavy as that harpoon is, the xi2500.1 is even heavier.

I updated the thread over here for you.

Edited January 14, 2011 by 06vlx

[old skool malibu]

Try and flex a 1x1 aluminum piece that is 2 ft long. You will be more than fine!

I just picked up some square aluminum tubing. 1/16 x 3/4. I think it will be plenty strong enough. I am thinking I will also run a piece on the floor on the inside of the engine compartment to help incase the divider wants to jump the plastic tray. What am I screwing into? Is it just fiberglass floor? Any concerns with this? 06- any tips? I noticed you suggested 3 bars same lenght vs 2 longer bars and one short bar. Anything else I should know before beginning?

[Bobby Light]

I just picked up some square aluminum tubing. 1/16 x 3/4. I think it will be plenty strong enough. I am thinking I will also run a piece on the floor on the inside of the engine compartment to help incase the divider wants to jump the plastic tray. What am I screwing into? Is it just fiberglass floor? Any concerns with this? 06- any tips? I noticed you suggested 3 bars same lenght vs 2 longer bars and one short bar. Anything else I should know before beginning?

You should be screwing into a stringer on the other side of the trac. I would do 3 long supports instead of two if I did it again, even though mine hasn't had a problem it basically only has 2 long supports. I don't think that third short one does any good.

[Wakesetter67]

Ok Here's the finnished Product... List Of materials. (2) 3/4 x 6' Sq Aluminum Tubing. Cost 21.98 Per stick @ Lowes

Stainless Bolts: 10-24x 1-1/2 Oval head, Finishing Washers Stainless # 10, Stainless Lock Nuts Nylon insert 10-24. Tubes are 20" long and I used the waste on the end. Don't no if it is really doing anything but I was very good at not wasting... Tolal cost around $ 60.00 here's some Pic's

Edited January 17, 2011 by Wakesetter67

[Bobby Light]

Nice work.

[Wakesetter67]

Nice work.

Thanks for all the great ideas and suggestions!!

[martinarcher]

Thanks for all the great ideas and suggestions!!

Nice job. Looks like it turned out great. Those screw heads shouldn't hurt anything.

[Wakesetter67]

Nice job. Looks like it turned out great. Those screw heads shouldn't hurt anything.

Thank You!

[Pistol Pete]

67, don't mean to piss in your cheerios but,

I sure hope you put some anti-seize or grease on the threads of the stainless screws before you tightened up the stainless lock nuts on there.

[Wakesetter67]

67, don't mean to piss in your cheerios but,

I sure hope you put some anti-seize or grease on the threads of the stainless screws before you tightened up the stainless lock nuts on there.

I used the Nylon Lock Nuts, I didn't think you needed to with them, What do you think?

[Pistol Pete]

The problem is if you ran a SS nut onto a SS screw. Did you?

[Pistol Pete]

Galling

[Wakesetter67]

Galling

Got it, did a google search and Yes they need Anti seize, Good call on that, I will apply tonight.. Love this Forum!!

[old skool malibu]

Ok Here's the finnished Product... List Of materials. (2) 3/4 x 6' Sq Aluminum Tubing. Cost 21.98 Per stick @ Lowes

Stainless Bolts: 10-24x 1-1/2 Oval head, Finishing Washers Stainless # 10, Stainless Lock Nuts Nylon insert 10-24. Tubes are 20" long and I used the waste on the end. Don't no if it is really doing anything but I was very good at not wasting... Tolal cost around $ 60.00 here's some Pic's

Looks good man! I have all my materials, the screws I have look like they will sit flush so dont think I need the finishing washers. My tubes are only 4 feet long so my material cost is higher. In fact almost twice the price! You gotta love Canada!

[Wakesetter67]

Looks good man! I have all my materials, the screws I have look like they will sit flush so dont think I need the finishing washers. My tubes are only 4 feet long so my material cost is higher. In fact almost twice the price! You gotta love Canada!

Don't forget the Anti seize on the bolts where the lock nut's go, Pistol pete had great advice on that part.

[LS-One]

This method could easily be refined for easier service.

If you welded a flat washer on the top of the rod and installed a small fixed sleeve to floor, the rod could become a pin that slid through the top of horizontal factory brace into the sleeve. The closed hatch would hold the pin in place. For service the pin would simply pull out the top of the horizontal factory brace when the hatch was open.

[Chia]

This method could easily be refined for easier service.

If you welded a flat washer on the top of the rod and installed a small fixed sleeve to floor, the rod could become a pin that slid through the top of horizontal factory brace into the sleeve. The closed hatch would hold the pin in place. For service the pin would simply pull out the top of the horizontal factory brace when the hatch was open.

I don't think you would even need the washer welded to the top of the rod, the cross brace is deep enough to keep the rod from slipping out. i agree the base does not need to be threaded. If you could counter sink the sleeve into the floor, it would be a pretty clean setup.

[Lance B. Johnson]

I have bought the aluminum (it was easier to find then stainless for me) and I plan to use pop rivets. Mine lasted nearly 2 seasons before it failed. I also found some 3/8 inch aluminum channel that I plan to replace the plastic one with. The plastic one distorted when it failed and it looks like to me it will never work quite as good as when it was new so I am replacing it.

This combined with my new floating wedge ought to make for a fun summer

Edited January 17, 2011 by Ruffdog

[LS-One]

I don't think you would even need the washer welded to the top of the rod, the cross brace is deep enough to keep the rod from slipping out. i agree the base does not need to be threaded. If you could counter sink the sleeve into the floor, it would be a pretty clean setup.

Better yet.

[Wakesetter67]

I don't think you would even need the washer welded to the top of the rod, the cross brace is deep enough to keep the rod from slipping out. i agree the base does not need to be threaded. If you could counter sink the sleeve into the floor, it would be a pretty clean setup.

The Only problem I see with That setup.......It's a MasterCraft......... Edited January 17, 2011 by Wakesetter67

[martinarcher]

The Only problem I see with That setup.......It's a MasterCraft.........

That's why the Bu crew boys had to re-think it and make it better than the Mastercraft pictured design.

Ruff - you are certainly going to have a fun summer with those two mods.

[Chia]

The Only problem I see with That setup.......It's a MasterCraft.........

we just won't tell anyone where we got the idea from...

[Wakesetter67]

we just won't tell anyone where we got the idea from...

Deal......

[LS-One]

The Only problem I see with That setup.......It's a MasterCraft.........

Its always better to drill the holes in a Mastercraft if your theories are unproven.