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Added Support For Engine Divider Walls


Cdoogles

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seems like a lot of work and design for not much gain. That black panel is not going to break, the only concern is the pressure from the bag might cause it bow and pop out of the bottom channel, replace that channel with a deeper aluminum one and problem solved.

The pressure on those two little black plastic twist things that lock the panel in place is the same whether or not there are supports attached to the panel.

IMG_1335.jpg

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seems like a lot of work and design for not much gain. That black panel is not going to break, the only concern is the pressure from the bag might cause it bow and pop out of the bottom channel, replace that channel with a deeper aluminum one and problem solved.

The pressure on those two little black plastic twist things that lock the panel in place is the same whether or not there are supports attached to the panel.

IMG_1335.jpg

Ya but that would take all the fun out of another reason to work on the Bu, I have at least 2 maybe 3 months before I can take her out....so bring on the Bu projects!!!
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seems like a lot of work and design for not much gain. That black panel is not going to break, the only concern is the pressure from the bag might cause it bow and pop out of the bottom channel, replace that channel with a deeper aluminum one and problem solved.

The pressure on those two little black plastic twist things that lock the panel in place is the same whether or not there are supports attached to the panel.

IMG_1335.jpg

You sure about all that cervelo, you may want to rethink your theory. That panel may not break from the bag but it will bend and deform. If it blows out you have over 1000 lbs of water contained in a bag that has the potential of touching the hot a** exhaust manifold/cat and blowing all that water into the bilge. That doesn't sound like a party to me.

Besides reinforcing the wall prevents the wall from blowing out in the first place, and keeps it from bending and deforming.

Edited by 06vlx
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I can understand that counter sinking the plastic does reduce the strength of the plastic-to-screw strength but, don't you think that the screw is just there to hold the bracing behind the plastic in place? All of the tension/pressure will be transferred from the surface area of the plastic panel to the effective surface area of the bracing behind it. The screws aren't really "seeing" any tension/pressure.

Here is my train of thought.

If there are 3 screws and we assume the horizontal pressure is equal from top to bottom, the plastic divider will want to fail in bending. What I mean is that upper portion of the divider is considered fixed, along with the lower portion. Therefore, the mid section will bow out.

When the middle section is trying to bow out, the braces will keep it straight. This will place both the upper and lower fasteners under tension. If I didn't explain it well enough, just imagine you took out all of the fasteners, applied a weak double sided tape between the divider and brace. Then from the compartment side, push with your hands or feet on the divider toward the engine compartment. You'll see that the brace will remain in contact with the center of the divider and separate from the upper and lower portions while the plastic divider bows.

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Here is my train of thought.

If there are 3 screws and we assume the horizontal pressure is equal from top to bottom, the plastic divider will want to fail in bending. What I mean is that upper portion of the divider is considered fixed, along with the lower portion. Therefore, the mid section will bow out.

When the middle section is trying to bow out, the braces will keep it straight. This will place both the upper and lower fasteners under tension. If I didn't explain it well enough, just imagine you took out all of the fasteners, applied a weak double sided tape between the divider and brace. Then from the compartment side, push with your hands or feet on the divider toward the engine compartment. You'll see that the brace will remain in contact with the center of the divider and separate from the upper and lower portions while the plastic divider bows.

Works for me!

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I agree, that's why I would probably go this route posted on wakeworld instead. It's probably a stronger solution and I think it looks cleaner although more of a hassle to remove to access the engine.

post-134-014844900 1294968579_thumb.jpg

post-134-029062200 1294968588_thumb.jpg

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I agree, that's why I would probably go this route posted on wakeworld instead. It's probably a stronger solution and I think it looks cleaner although more of a hassle to remove to access the engine.

Complete overkill and not necessary for the wall reinforcement, not to mention an absolute PIA for any dealer or DIY guy to work on the boat.

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the brace will remain in contact with the center of the divider and separate from the upper and lower portions while the plastic divider bows.

You are correct.

Thanks for that mental image.

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Complete overkill and not necessary for the wall reinforcement, not to mention an absolute PIA for any dealer or DIY guy to work on the boat.

I dunno.

That looks pretty clean, beefy, and shouldn't really hinder a guy from working on the motor.

I'd just make it so that those rods pull out real easy.

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If you are running 1100 it is a must. I have 750's and have not had an issue. I am going to to the upgrade anyways just because I need something to do over the winter!

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Ok so I have read all the differant ideas out there...and most have some really good ideas...So for those that have done the SS tubing, How dose it work. Does it stop the flexing. That really is all that matters. There are more then one way to achieve the same result.. IMO I like the SS Or Alu Tubing, Im not drilling extra holes in the bottom of the floor and its a simple low cost way to prevent the flex. So how does this method work??

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I like rivets for mine. Much cleaner , no worries about damage from the heads, and not drilling all the way through the material if you use tubing.

I was planning to use rivets....

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I agree, that's why I would probably go this route posted on wakeworld instead. It's probably a stronger solution and I think it looks cleaner although more of a hassle to remove to access the engine.

This requires drilling holes in a structural part of the boat and can make the engine more challenging to work on. Not my first choice.

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Ok so I have read all the differant ideas out there...and most have some really good ideas...So for those that have done the SS tubing, How dose it work. Does it stop the flexing. That really is all that matters. There are more then one way to achieve the same result.. IMO I like the SS Or Alu Tubing, Im not drilling extra holes in the bottom of the floor and its a simple low cost way to prevent the flex. So how does this method work??

Yes it eliminates all the flex so that the panel does now bow in and pop into the engine compartment. I wouldn't use aluminum, just stainless. I used 1x1 stainless tubing.

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Yes it eliminates all the flex so that the panel does now bow in and pop into the engine compartment. I wouldn't use aluminum, just stainless. I used 1x1 stainless tubing.

So 1x1 Aluminum Would not be strong enough. I just have the 750Lb Sac's I have not located any stainless yet without having to buy online.
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So 1x1 Aluminum Would not be strong enough. I just have the 750Lb Sac's I have not located any stainless yet without having to buy online.

Not sure, but I do know that 1x1 stainless is good for a sac over 1000 lbs.

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So 1x1 Aluminum Would not be strong enough. I just have the 750Lb Sac's I have not located any stainless yet without having to buy online.

Try and flex a 1x1 aluminum piece that is 2 ft long. You will be more than fine!

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Are you kidding me? That's my pre-season workout :lol: .

Well it would help to specify the thickness of course...the pieces I was looking at were pretty rigid. Must have been 1/8 think plus?

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Are you kidding me? That's my pre-season workout :lol: .

No your pre-season workout is lifting that massive Big 15 plus the Harpoon into your boat! Hows that going by the way or do you have a no progress, progress report?

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