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Added Support For Engine Divider Walls


Cdoogles

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Pretty sure it's 304 and .12 thick. Never did reinforce the track and it hasn't been a problem for me and I run alot of weight in there.

Edit: A tip for anyone else doing this. Use Panhead bolts and not hex bolts. You want the bolt head smooth because it will be touching the sac, you don't want anything remotely sharp or jagged rubbing up against that thing. Especially when they are full. I also recommend stainless hardware and nothing dipped.

I used flat head bolts countersunk flush and Aluminum angle for the supports. They did sometimes pop out of the floor track. I have added taller aluminum angle at the floor to solve that problem.

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Pretty sure it's 304 and .12 thick. Never did reinforce the track and it hasn't been a problem for me and I run alot of weight in there.

Edit: A tip for anyone else doing this. Use Panhead bolts and not hex bolts. You want the bolt head smooth because it will be touching the sac, you don't want anything remotely sharp or jagged rubbing up against that thing. Especially when they are full. I also recommend stainless hardware and nothing dipped.

Close but the tube we used was actually 304 / .065.. It will not matter which one you use they are both more than strong enough to do what we are doing. If you have a hard time finding S.S. tube Home depot has Aluminum angel iron use S.S. hardware. Don`t worry about the metals being different and use the thickest stuff they have I think it is 1/8" and go 2 x 2 .

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I used flat head bolts countersunk flush and Aluminum angle for the supports. They did sometimes pop out of the floor track. I have added taller aluminum angle at the floor to solve that problem.

Dumb question..how can I countersink on the dividers? Is there a easy technique to this? I was going to use flat head bolts anyways just to ensure no punctures but countersinking would ensure there are no issues!

Edited by old skool malibu
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Dumb question..how can I countersink on the dividers? Is there a easy technique to this? I was going to use flat head bolts anyways just to ensure to punctures but countersinking would ensure there are no issues!

I think they make a countersink bit, i always used a drill bit big enough to sink the bolt flat. By the way I Found 3/4 square alu tubing at lowes, they also had 1" square also. what would you think would work best? Edited by Wakesetter67
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Dumb question..how can I countersink on the dividers? Is there a easy technique to this? I was going to use flat head bolts anyways just to ensure to punctures but countersinking would ensure there are no issues!

Use an 82 degree countersink for standard thread flatheads and 90 degree countersink for metric threaded flatheads. You can use a drill bit but the fit is not perfect angle.

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I think they make a countersink bit, i always used a drill bit big enough to sink the bolt flat. By the way I Found 3/4 square alu tubing at lowes, they also had 1" square also. what would you think would work best?

We dont have Lowes up here so I may just pick up the L angle aluminum at Homedepot. I think 3/4 would be more than adequate.

Edited by old skool malibu
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Use an 82 degree countersink for standard thread flatheads and 90 degree countersink for metric threaded flatheads. You can use a drill bit but the fit is not perfect angle.

Thanks!

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I believe he meant finish washers and, IMHO, they won't look as good as counter sunk into the plastic.

You are correct, I did meant finish washers. The problem with counter sinking the plastic is that you significantly reduce the tensile strength of the bracing. By countersinking the plastic, you effectively reduce the thickness of the plastic. The math behind it is pretty basic. If someone know the original thickness, countersink angle and depth, there are tables or formulas to give you the effective thickness.

So, finishing washers are easier and stronger, but not as pretty.

Edited by pielet97
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I can understand that counter sinking the plastic does reduce the strength of the plastic-to-screw strength but, don't you think that the screw is just there to hold the bracing behind the plastic in place? All of the tension/pressure will be transferred from the surface area of the plastic panel to the effective surface area of the bracing behind it. The screws aren't really "seeing" any tension/pressure.

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Did it today.....

IMG_1335.jpg

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Looks nice. As 06 said may want to watch thosse screw heads snaggin the bag. If you dont want the hastle of changing I am sure a few strips of duct tape will cover them up nicely. May not look as clean but will save your bags!

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Looks nice. As 06 said may want to watch thosse screw heads snaggin the bag. If you dont want the hastle of changing I am sure a few strips of duct tape will cover them up nicely. May not look as clean but will save your bags!

Hereis a pic of one with finishing washers and a nice smooth edge around the screw. I think this may be 06's set up.

post-4887-081144700 1294891935_thumb.jpg

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Wouldn't this work? Not sure what size you are using but these are smooth and you don't have to counter sink. With the correct hole size in your panel, the square shoulder will pull in the hole and lock the bolt head in place.

Pretty much what I used on mine.

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Didn't you say, a while ago, that 3 bars was probably overkill? Seems like 2 bars on the outsides of the latches would suffice and look pretty clean...?

Don't remember saying that, I would say the smaller bar is useless. I'd do 3 long ones and space them closer if I did it over again.

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I like rivets for mine. Much cleaner , no worries about damage from the heads, and not drilling all the way through the material if you use tubing.

Getting better, I like that idea....Keep them coming.....
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hmm, yeah i didn't really think about the bolt heads until i put it all together.....Ill take them back and see what else I can get.....i think those finishing washers will do the trick....

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