Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Added Support For Engine Divider Walls


Cdoogles

Recommended Posts

I've read through several of the forums and it sounds like several people have used 1" stainless tubing to re-enforce the engine divider walls. I plan on doing this over the weekend, but since the boat is at the summer house I can't measure how much I need. Does anyone who had done this recall how much material is needed? Or can someone measure the height of the dividers? My boats is a 2007 VLX, but I imagine any 2005 or later VLX is the same.

Thanks in advance Crew!

Link to comment

Not sure how much tubing is needed, but you can see what 06vlx did to his boat in post #74 of this thread.

I'm sure he'll chime in, but I would guess you could measure your boat where he put tubing and get a pretty close idea of what you need.

Good luck!

Link to comment

Engine Side was my plan. I can't measure until I get over to the boat and there isn't a great hardware store in Lake Chelan. True Value sometimes come's through, but it's 50-50 odds that they will have what I need so I would rather just buy it here and bring it with.

Link to comment

Engine Side was my plan. I can't measure until I get over to the boat and there isn't a great hardware store in Lake Chelan. True Value sometimes come's through, but it's 50-50 odds that they will have what I need so I would rather just buy it here and bring it with.

You can buy your stainless tubing (get stainless it's strong) at Onlinemetals.com. They are in the Seattle area by ballard on Lake Union. I get all my metal there. You can have them ship it to your place in Chelan if you want, or you can go to the store and pick it up. If you only do 2 pieces you'll need about 5' in length. If you have a portaban you can cut it to length. If you don't I think you can rent them from Home Depot.

My walls are higher than yours I think. Hopefully liljohn will chime in, he did it in his 07' VLX.

Link to comment

Thanks 06VLX. I assume you mean 5' per divider? If my memory serves me correctly they are at least 2' tall. Thanks!

Yes 5' per divider. What I meant by 2 pieces was doing 2 support pieces vs the 3 like I did. I don't think the third was necessary or doing much good really.

Edited by 06vlx
Link to comment

Thanks. I will try and swing by online metals tomorrow~!

You need to go online and order what you want so it will be cut when you go to pick it up. Not sure how long your wait will be if you don't. That's how I always do it. If you do in store pickup there is an option to pay when you pick it up.

Link to comment

Last tip on this. Make the piece as long as possible without interfering with the install and removal of the wall. This will keep the plastic wall rigid so it won't pop out of the track on bottom. My wall won't flex at all so it stays in the track. If you leave to much room at the top or bottom you'll run the risk of flex and poping it out of the track.

Link to comment

Seems like you could run the tubing all the way to where it almost rests on top of the channel and then leave a little room at the top to allow for installing the panel. Does this sound right?

Link to comment

Seems like you could run the tubing all the way to where it almost rests on top of the channel and then leave a little room at the top to allow for installing the panel. Does this sound right?

That's how I did mine. It about touches the trac on the bottom. I left no more than 1/8" at top and bottom.

Link to comment

Do you think that doing this mod and plumbing a bag into each locker would void warranty? It does say right there not to put ballast in there....

Link to comment

Cdoogles- If you need any dimensions let me know. I have done the same to mine and it is a must if you run bags 750# or bigger.

Arrydjay- Depends on your dealer and you. I forgot to fill the hard tank one time and bent the slide for the monitoring system. my dealer knows I run a 1100# bag in the locker and was very nice about it but was not going to warranty it unless i pushed the issue. I didnt argue. if it was a hull issue I might have tossed a fit but 60 bucks wasent worth it.

Link to comment

liljohn- They were back ordered on the 3/4" stainless, so I'm waiting for a few days for them to get it in. If you can give me the dimensions to cut each piece too, that would be awesome! Save me at least an extra trip! Thanks-

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

06vlx or liljohn,

What type os SS did you go with; 304 or 316? Thickness; .065" or .12"? Also, did you ever reinforce the track for the divider or floorboard of the storage area? If not, do you think either is necessary?

Link to comment

Did it today.....

IMG_1335.jpg

IMG_1336.jpg

IMG_1337.jpg

Thanks for the pic's I'm More Visual and that helped out alot, I just had my sac's installed and have not had a chance to use them, I never even thought of the flex. Thanks for posting this....
Link to comment

06vlx or liljohn,

What type os SS did you go with; 304 or 316? Thickness; .065" or .12"? Also, did you ever reinforce the track for the divider or floorboard of the storage area? If not, do you think either is necessary?

Pretty sure it's 304 and .12 thick. Never did reinforce the track and it hasn't been a problem for me and I run alot of weight in there.

Edit: A tip for anyone else doing this. Use Panhead bolts and not hex bolts. You want the bolt head smooth because it will be touching the sac, you don't want anything remotely sharp or jagged rubbing up against that thing. Especially when they are full. I also recommend stainless hardware and nothing dipped.

Edited by 06vlx
Link to comment

Thanks for the pic's I'm More Visual and that helped out alot, I just had my sac's installed and have not had a chance to use them, I never even thought of the flex. Thanks for posting this....

If you are running 1100 it is a must. I have 750's and have not had an issue. I am going to to the upgrade anyways just because I need something to do over the winter!

Link to comment

If you are running 1100 it is a must. I have 750's and have not had an issue. I am going to to the upgrade anyways just because I need something to do over the winter!

I Was thinking that same thing...Led' installed stereo upgrade done...Now supports...Seams to make the winter months go by alittle faster when working on the Bu... Edited by Wakesetter67
Link to comment

Pretty sure it's 304 and .12 thick. Never did reinforce the track and it hasn't been a problem for me and I run alot of weight in there.

Edit: A tip for anyone else doing this. Use Panhead bolts and not hex bolts. You want the bolt head smooth because it will be touching the sac, you don't want anything remotely sharp or jagged rubbing up against that thing. Especially when they are full. I also recommend stainless hardware and nothing dipped.

Wouldn't aluminum hardware be better, use two similar metals?

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...