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another witerizing thread


h60swimmer

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I have a 92 Euro f3 with a 350 mercruiser...I changed the oil and I drained the block and all other hoses the manual said to. I then filled a bucket with antifreeze and sucked up 6 gallons through the raw water intake. Should that be good for a winter where temps get into the 20's and high teens? I am really paranoid about the block getting damaged.

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you'll be fine...but if you are really paranoid, then drain the antifreeze, just in case the tstat wasn't open and antifreeze didn't get everywhere, and draining it fully will at least leave antifreeze wherever it didn't fully drain from, then get a trouble light and leave it in the bilge on the cold nights, no, get two in case one of the bulbs should burn out, but then I worry whether an electrical short might ignite any residual gas fumes, then...

...I think you'll be fine Biggrin.gif

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just in case the tstat wasn't open

If the block was drained first, then it would fill regardless of the tstat being open or closed. Right?

Yes, I think that is correct. I'm pretty sure the t-stat blocks flow out of the engine, not in. So the raw water pump and circulation pump should fill the block.

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just in case the tstat wasn't open

If the block was drained first, then it would fill regardless of the tstat being open or closed. Right?

No.

Is the 'stat an open or closed deal, or variable? If the block, etc. were drained first, then antifreeze ingested by means of the raw-water pump, engine temp ~140° does the antifreeze get into the block or not? (assuming a 160° 'stat)

Or does engine temp not matter as vette-ski and lakenut suggest?

As a side note, at least one antifreeze manufacturer doesn not recommend the -50 stuff for remaining in the engine during lay-up. The -60 or -100 has anticorrosive properties, IIRC.

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just in case the tstat wasn't open

If the block was drained first, then it would fill regardless of the tstat being open or closed. Right?

Yes, I think that is correct. I'm pretty sure the t-stat blocks flow out of the engine, not in. So the raw water pump and circulation pump should fill the block.

You are correct.

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don't ever read my posts expecting a high degree of mechanical accuracy...I just come to the hunt to keep the birds moving for the real shooters. Besides, you guys are acting a little paranoid...

...but how can we be sure the refrigerator light is really turning off when we shut the door...hmmm?

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Thanks everyone for the info. This is going to be the only winter that I am really going to have to worry about such cold weather and I don't want the engine to get messed up....I am moving back to Ca. after I get out of the service next year. Again thank you...I hope everything works!

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just in case the tstat wasn't open

If the block was drained first, then it would fill regardless of the tstat being open or closed. Right?

Yes, I think that is correct. I'm pretty sure the t-stat blocks flow out of the engine, not in. So the raw water pump and circulation pump should fill the block.

You are correct.

Just when I thought I knew it all, you guys are right. I stand corrected! There is a small bypass hole next to the Tstat that goes right to the Circ pump.

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OK, whats the deal here??? I thought I needed to get my engine up to operating temp (160) to be SURE the thermostat opened up. Otherwise you are just circulating water in the exhaust mainifolds. I have not torn into my Bu engine, but I know that Ford marine modified blocks are set up that way. So you might get some antifreeze up there in the block but I would certainly warm that baby up before I did it. All that said, what is winterizing anyway?? They don't even include that part in the owners manual down here Biggrin.gif

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....what is winterizing anyway?? They don't even include that part in the owners manual down here  Biggrin.gif

OK, now you're just being mean. :lol:

I'd like to know how many guys are diligent about capturing the anti-freeze that is in their engines once winter is over. That stuff is crazy toxic and I'll bet a bunch of people just go to the lake and start it up. :(

Glad I ski all year long and don't have to deal with it. Biggrin.gif

Edited by NorCaliBu
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Thanks everyone for the info.  This is going to be the only winter that I am really going to have to worry about such cold weather and I don't want the engine to get messed up....I am moving back to Ca. after I get out of the service next year.  Again thank you...I hope everything works!

You sure you want to come back to the land of wackos? Where abouts?

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[

I'd like to know how many guys are diligent about capturing the anti-freeze that is in their engines once winter is over.  That stuff is crazy toxic and I'll bet a bunch of people just go to the lake and start it up. :(

I catch mine... with the drain that goes out to the field Crazy.gif

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OK, whats the deal here???  I thought I needed to get my engine up to operating temp (160) to be SURE the thermostat opened up. Otherwise you are just circulating water in the exhaust mainifolds. I have not torn into my Bu engine, but I know that Ford marine modified blocks are set up that way. So you might get some antifreeze up there in the block but I would certainly warm that baby up before I did it. All that said, what is winterizing anyway?? They don't even include that part in the owners manual down here  Biggrin.gif

There is nothing different about the block. It is the same block used in GM trucks. The difference is in the waterneck on the top of the intake manifold where the t-stat is. Take it apart if you want to understand it. But there is a direct water path from the raw water pump to the engine circulating pump via the waterneck. The block will fill with the t-stat closed.

I would never run the boat in a lake with a/f still in there. What we all do around here is run them in our driveway on a hose before heading to the lake the first time, where it all runs out into the street gutters, and into the nearest drainage detention pond. Crazy.gif

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Malibu due

Hey were not all wackos, I am moving back home, the central valley near paso robles.....yes I am coming back I love Cali.....I will never come back to this s*** hole again (maryland).....to get this thread back on track....since I did suck up 6 gallons of A/F I'm sure I'm alright.....now with everyones concerns about where it goes come spring time....I'm putting 5 gallon buckets under the exast until I see just H2O....

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I'd like to know how many guys are diligent about capturing the anti-freeze that is in their engines once winter is over.  That stuff is crazy toxic and I'll bet a bunch of people just go to the lake and start it up. :(

From the camco FAQ page:

Q. I understand that most antifreezes are toxic, yet you claim your RV Antifreeze products are not harmful. How is that possible?

A. Most automotive antifreezes are made from ethylene glycol, which is highly toxic. RV antifreezes are made from propylene glycol which is considered GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe) by the U.S. Government. Propylene glycol is used in many consumable products such as ice cream, candy and even cosmetics. Therefore, Camco’s propylene glycol based antifreezes are the products of choice when winterizing potable water systems.

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I'd like to know how many guys are diligent about capturing the anti-freeze that is in their engines once winter is over.  That stuff is crazy toxic and I'll bet a bunch of people just go to the lake and start it up. :(

From the camco FAQ page:

Q. I understand that most antifreezes are toxic, yet you claim your RV Antifreeze products are not harmful. How is that possible?

A. Most automotive antifreezes are made from ethylene glycol, which is highly toxic. RV antifreezes are made from propylene glycol which is considered GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe) by the U.S. Government. Propylene glycol is used in many consumable products such as ice cream, candy and even cosmetics. Therefore, Camco’s propylene glycol based antifreezes are the products of choice when winterizing potable water systems.

No doubt it's less toxic than the green stuff but, it still kills my grass.

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