Using Oil?

[coveman]

I've put 60 hours on my 2008 VTX this summer and I have had to add two quarts of oil. It started with 38 hours and now has almost 98. I don't notice any oil leaking, and it is not smoking either. This seems unusual to me. Anyone have a similar situation or any advice as to what might be wrong?

[Bill_AirJunky]

What engine?

[coveman]

What engine?

[coveman]

340

[dalt1]

Your supposed to change oil at 50 Hours anyway. That doesn't explain the usage though. Looks like mine may use about a half quart in 50 hours now , but it has 730 hours on it.

[rodman]

What oil are you using? I switched to Amsoil synthetic and am using hardly any oil.

[coveman]

What oil are you using? I switched to Amsoil synthetic and am using hardly any oil.

[Bobby Light]

What oil are you using? I switched to Amsoil synthetic and am using hardly any oil.

That's because your boat would feel bad buring that $8 a quart crap.

[coveman]

I have been using Pennzoil 15W 40. Maybe I'll try the synthetic

[rodman]

That's because your boat would feel bad buring that $8 a quart crap.

Maybe you are right, my boat dosn't use any oil. I use to think like you, until I started using it. As much as we take pride in out boats with the best of everything you are going to worrie about a few extra bucks to run a proven better product. Synthetics are in most new manufactures motors and transmissions they are spending the extra for a reason.

In my case I maintain 25 vehicles 10 over the road trucks using 20 quarts each plus rental and personal vehicles. The synthetic saves me oil changes and is proven in my case that we use less oil. It works you should try some you could change your oil once a year instead of twice a year.

Edited September 11, 2010 by rodman

[dalt1]

That's because your boat would feel bad buring that $8 a quart crap.

I run 15w40 Diesel rated oil. Figure it still has contaminants in it after 50 hrs so change it out as recommended by Indmar. Synthetics may not break down as quick, but still have the same contaminants in it.

[rodman]

I run 15w40 Diesel rated oil. Figure it still has contaminants in it after 50 hrs so change it out as recommended by Indmar. Synthetics may not break down as quick, but still have the same contaminants in it.

Dalt what contaminants are you talking about?

[dalt1]

Due to combustion and wear and tear. Dirt.

[JeffS]

Shouldn't have dirt in the oil - filter will take care of that. Change filter at 50 maybe, but if running synthetic, interval should easily be 100hrs. Only way to know is to test the oil. pH will gradually drop over time, but the lubricating properties will maintain. A family friend is a retired product engineer who specialized in oil. I don't have enough brain-space to understand everything he knows - so I just do what he tells me to do. In my truck and cars, I run Mobil1 0W30 and change it every 8000 miles. In my boat, I have 3qts of 30W and 2qts of 40W synthetic (Valvoline I think...) and change it in fall after typically 110 - 125hrs depending on the year. I don't participate in the pro/con conversations regarding Amsoil or Royal Purple or any of the big majors. I just do what I'm told from someone that knows way, way, way, way, way more than anyone else I can ever imagine...about oil.

To the OP - it is NOT unusual to burn oil and it does not mean there is something significantly wrong. Switch oil brand and switch to synthetic to experiment and see if it affects oil consumption. It may actually increase consumption for a little while, before it levels off and starts to drop. Oil frequently burns in the top of the engine rather than in combustion areas. There are flow-back holes that let oil flow from the top back down and those can become slow moving. Clean high-detergent oils can clear that right up. If it were me, I would also try seafoam - put in a quart and run the engine at fast idle for 15 minutes. Then drain and change the oil and filter. That can also clear it right up. I don't recommend anything to anyone. I just share what I do in case anyone is interested.

[Bobby Light]

Shouldn't have dirt in the oil - filter will take care of that. Change filter at 50 maybe, but if running synthetic, interval should easily be 100hrs. Only way to know is to test the oil. pH will gradually drop over time, but the lubricating properties will maintain. A family friend is a retired product engineer who specialized in oil. I don't have enough brain-space to understand everything he knows - so I just do what he tells me to do. In my truck and cars, I run Mobil1 0W30 and change it every 8000 miles. In my boat, I have 3qts of 30W and 2qts of 40W synthetic (Valvoline I think...) and change it in fall after typically 110 - 125hrs depending on the year. I don't participate in the pro/con conversations regarding Amsoil or Royal Purple or any of the big majors. I just do what I'm told from someone that knows way, way, way, way, way more than anyone else I can ever imagine...about oil.

To the OP - it is NOT unusual to burn oil and it does not mean there is something significantly wrong. Switch oil brand and switch to synthetic to experiment and see if it affects oil consumption. It may actually increase consumption for a little while, before it levels off and starts to drop. Oil frequently burns in the top of the engine rather than in combustion areas. There are flow-back holes that let oil flow from the top back down and those can become slow moving. Clean high-detergent oils can clear that right up. If it were me, I would also try seafoam - put in a quart and run the engine at fast idle for 15 minutes. Then drain and change the oil and filter. That can also clear it right up. I don't recommend anything to anyone. I just share what I do in case anyone is interested.

I'm sure you buddy is a smart man but a smarter man would change his oil every 50 hours like the owners manual says while in the warranty period. When warranty is up it's on you anyways so a guy could do whatever he wanted.

[JeffS]

I'd never own a boat that was in warranty.

[Bobby Light]

I'd never own a boat that was in warranty.

That's great for you, but for those in their warranty period like the OP and many others on this site it would be foolish to follow your advice on the 100+ hour oil changes.

Edited September 12, 2010 by 06vlx

[JeffS]

That's great for you, but for those in their warranty period like the OP and many others on this site it would be foolish to follow your advice on the 100+ hour oil changes.

I specifically said - I'm not sharing anything resembling a suggestion for others. Just sharing what I do in case anyone is interested. And I clearly have a '93. I don't give advice. You simply read my post incorrectly.

[Bobby Light]

Yeah I guess if I mis-interpreted this statement from you I guess I did .

"Shouldn't have dirt in the oil - filter will take care of that. Change filter at 50 maybe, but if running synthetic, interval should easily be 100hrs"

[JeffS]

...If it were me, I would also try seafoam - put in a quart and run the engine at fast idle for 15 minutes. Then drain and change the oil and filter. That can also clear it right up. I don't recommend anything to anyone. I just share what I do in case anyone is interested.

I'm pleased we agree.

[Chia]

not sure why someone would treat their engine differently just because it is out of warranty period. The folks that build the engines recommend to change the oil and filter every 50 hours, synthetic or not. My advice would be to do that.

[Bobby Light]

I'm pleased we agree.

You sure have a weird way of NOT recommending something to your crew friends.

"Switch oil brand and switch to synthetic to experiment and see if it affects oil consumption. It may actually increase consumption for a little while, before it levels off and starts to drop. Oil frequently burns in the top of the engine rather than in combustion areas. There are flow-back holes that let oil flow from the top back down and those can become slow moving. Clean high-detergent oils can clear that right up. If it were me, I would also try seafoam - put in a quart and run the engine at fast idle for 15 minutes. Then drain and change the oil and filter."

[JeffS]

Doing what you do because it is what you always did when things were the way they were; has arguable merit in any situation including this one...at least in my opinion.

Here's a timely article in the NY Times last week about oil change intervals. If it were me, I'd consider the 3,000 mile car oil change interval the same as the 50hr oil change interval. It is what it is because it was what it was for all that time...even though a ton has changed since then.

Everyone is completely welcome to do whatever they please. It's their money, their time, their oil. All I'm arguing is that there are some really, really, really smart people that forget more about this topic every single day than I will ever know in my lifetime...those really smart people say that doing that is silly and they can back it up with science. Those that argue against that science typically do it with a argument that sounds similar to "it can't hurt...so I'll keep to 50hrs". And that's just fine. The oil companies appreciate the business. But it's NOT necessary unless a warranty clock is ticking.

In the time it took science to discredit the 3,000 mile interval, those that benefit from that interval mounted their own PR campaign, which many chose to believe and still do. It wasn't until those concerned with what to do with all that partially used oil, pitched a fit, that the mfr's felt comfortable writing more realistic intervals into manuals. It may be NEVER that indmar says 100hrs because the dealers like the service interval. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing it's not covered under warranty and I bet it's a really expensive service interval. The dealers like that. And I don't blame them. Because they like it, doesn't make it necessary though.

Like always, I don't give advice, I only share what I think I know in case anyone is interested. Please don't flame me, it's just my opinion. And unless you send your oil out for analysis - your just guessing for the sake of arguing. If you are a 50hr owner who is out of warranty, only oil analysis will convince you that it's not necessary.

[martinarcher]

That's because your boat would feel bad buring that $8 a quart crap.

Crap huh? Pretty sure Amsoil is pretty high on the list of todays best synthetic oils. I'm a Mobil 1 fan, but always thought Amsoil rated right up there. Why do you say it's crap?

OP - have you done a compression test or leak down test at all? Does the motor still seem strong? Running good?

[Bobby Light]

Crap huh? Pretty sure Amsoil is pretty high on the list of todays best synthetic oils. I'm a Mobil 1 fan, but always thought Amsoil rated right up there. Why do you say it's crap?

OP - have you done a compression test or leak down test at all? Does the motor still seem strong? Running good?

Didn't mean it literally, pretty sure amsoil is up there as well.