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Winterization Walk Through


Barefooternewbie

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Good afternoon all,

Would anyone be able to provide me a Winterization Walk Through Template? It's my first season with the boat and I want to make sure I don't miss doing anything.

Thanks,

JD

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Good afternoon all,

Would anyone be able to provide me a Winterization Walk Through Template? It's my first season with the boat and I want to make sure I don't miss doing anything.

Thanks,

JD

You can start by getting a wetsuit and than a dry suit and going for another 2 months! :Tease3:

I believe there is a winterization article in the DIY section (one of the tabs up top). Also search is your friends and you'll find many discussions on it.

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Agree - Step 1...buy a wet suit and keep skiing until October! Rockon.gif. I'm in WI, so weather is not much different than Ontario. Last year, we skied until October 15th.

After that, it will all depend on how your boat is set up. Anything that has water in it has to be winterized. Engine and trans cooling lines, bilge, hot and cold shower, heater core, ballast tanks and pumps - all need to be winterized.

My process is different because it's a different boat - but - I start by putting Stabil in with fresh fuel and running the boat on the lake for a while. Once back at home on the trailer, I change the oil, change the trans fluid, pull the thermostat (safety measure to be sure antifreeze goes through the block completely) and then run pink RV -50degF potable antifreeze through the entire cooling system by running the engine.

I use compressed air to blow water out of the other water lines including the bilge pump. Wash the bilge, spray the whole engine and running gear down with WD40 (I use a lot of WD40 - big fan), pull each plug and squirt fogging oil in each cylinder, with plugs removed, crank the engine over a couple times to spread the fogging oil around in the cylinder, put it all back together. I remove the impeller so it doesn't sit for 5mos in one position. I remove the battery and all of the gear that I can store in my basement including the seats.

After that, I drain the manifolds and block by pulling the freeze plugs. I leave the freeze plugs out, covering the holes with masking tape just to keep insects out, write myself notes on what I did, and put her inside to sleep through the winter. I do also wash and wax the whole thing.

Trailer - I spray the coupler with WD40 as well as the brake components. Grease the hubs, top up the brake fluid and check the tires.

I store with the cover off - just covered with visqueen all the way to the floor and run a strip of duct tape at the rub-rail height to tighten the plastic over the boat.

Once in the storage building, before covering with visqueen, I put about 20 or 30 scented Bounce dryer sheets throughout the boat to keep mice away, as well as some MildewBuster water-absorbing buckets.

You'll need -

Fogging Oil

WD40

About 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze

A fake-a-lake or similar.

RTV or other gasket sealer.

Oil change supplies including filter.

2 -3 quarts of Transmission Fluid (don't know what your's uses or I'd be more specific...mine takes 1.5qt of DexronIII)

Bounce dryer sheets.

Mildew Busters

Grease Gun

Brake fluid

A sheet of visqueen about 30'x15'

And that's about it.

Costs me about $60. There is an easier way if you are not opposed to writing a big check - you can also take it to a marina - say "winterize it and store it" and they'll take it from there.Sad.gif I don't want to be having these conversations already.

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Agree - Step 1...buy

......................

I don't want to be having these conversations already.

It's going to be my first time winterizing the boat as well. I was wondering whether it would be better to change the oil, oil filter, impeller etc before winter or at the end of winter before she goes back in the water? Does it matter if the new or old stuff sits there for the winter, it seemed more logical to have the old stuff sit there and the new stuff right before the beginning of next season. Any insights?

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It's going to be my first time winterizing the boat as well. I was wondering whether it would be better to change the oil, oil filter, impeller etc before winter or at the end of winter before she goes back in the water? Does it matter if the new or old stuff sits there for the winter, it seemed more logical to have the old stuff sit there and the new stuff right before the beginning of next season. Any insights?

I have heard arguments for both sides but definitely pull the impeller before layup and leave it out.

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It's going to be my first time winterizing the boat as well. I was wondering whether it would be better to change the oil, oil filter, impeller etc before winter or at the end of winter before she goes back in the water? Does it matter if the new or old stuff sits there for the winter, it seemed more logical to have the old stuff sit there and the new stuff right before the beginning of next season. Any insights?

I'd think it's best to have fresh oil sit over winter and install the new impeller at the start of the season so it doesn't sit in that position as stated earlier. I also agree that I don't want to start thinking about this already but it is coming faster now with shorter days.

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It's going to be my first time winterizing the boat as well. I was wondering whether it would be better to change the oil, oil filter, impeller etc before winter or at the end of winter before she goes back in the water? Does it matter if the new or old stuff sits there for the winter, it seemed more logical to have the old stuff sit there and the new stuff right before the beginning of next season. Any insights?

My understanding is that the byproducts of combustion gradually lower the pH of the oil (make it more acidic), and the detergents break down. No combustion - no breakdown. So the school of thought is - put fresh oil in and let it just sit there over the winter, all will be good. I do put in a lighter weight oil - as I start pulling skiers in April when the water temp breaks 45deg. I don't put in straight-weight oil until end of June...which is typically about the 1/2 way point of my season and the 50hr mark for the year.

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prior to taking boat out for last time of season, put enough stabil for fuel in boat, upon going home top off fuel tank and add remainder of stabill for how many more gallons you used to top off tank. start engine on trailer run to operating temp. shut it down ,change oil and filter, fire it back up and fog engine.drain all water as needed. loosen up belts so they dont keep a memory. check trans fluid and change if necasary. grease all aplicable stuff. remove all belongings that are not wanted to stay in boat. remove both drain plugs from bildge. lift up all cushions for air circulation. make sure boat is completely dry inside. put covers on boat. fill up air with tires and give a shot a grease to bearing buddys. relieve pressure on winch strap and tie downs and put it away. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE JUST PUT IN A GARAGE OR BARN AND HOPE ALL WILL BE GOOD. YOU WILL NOT LIKE THE OUTCOME IN THE SPRING OR LISTENING TO YOUR OTHER HALF.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Agree - Step 1...buy a wet suit and keep skiing until October! Rockon.gif. I'm in WI, so weather is not much different than Ontario. Last year, we skied until October 15th.

After that, it will all depend on how your boat is set up. Anything that has water in it has to be winterized. Engine and trans cooling lines, bilge, hot and cold shower, heater core, ballast tanks and pumps - all need to be winterized.

My process is different because it's a different boat - but - I start by putting Stabil in with fresh fuel and running the boat on the lake for a while. Once back at home on the trailer, I change the oil, change the trans fluid, pull the thermostat (safety measure to be sure antifreeze goes through the block completely) and then run pink RV -50degF potable antifreeze through the entire cooling system by running the engine.

I use compressed air to blow water out of the other water lines including the bilge pump. Wash the bilge, spray the whole engine and running gear down with WD40 (I use a lot of WD40 - big fan), pull each plug and squirt fogging oil in each cylinder, with plugs removed, crank the engine over a couple times to spread the fogging oil around in the cylinder, put it all back together. I remove the impeller so it doesn't sit for 5mos in one position. I remove the battery and all of the gear that I can store in my basement including the seats.

After that, I drain the manifolds and block by pulling the freeze plugs. I leave the freeze plugs out, covering the holes with masking tape just to keep insects out, write myself notes on what I did, and put her inside to sleep through the winter. I do also wash and wax the whole thing.

Trailer - I spray the coupler with WD40 as well as the brake components. Grease the hubs, top up the brake fluid and check the tires.

I store with the cover off - just covered with visqueen all the way to the floor and run a strip of duct tape at the rub-rail height to tighten the plastic over the boat.

Once in the storage building, before covering with visqueen, I put about 20 or 30 scented Bounce dryer sheets throughout the boat to keep mice away, as well as some MildewBuster water-absorbing buckets.

You'll need -

Fogging Oil

WD40

About 5 gallons of pink RV antifreeze

A fake-a-lake or similar.

RTV or other gasket sealer.

Oil change supplies including filter.

2 -3 quarts of Transmission Fluid (don't know what your's uses or I'd be more specific...mine takes 1.5qt of DexronIII)

Bounce dryer sheets.

Mildew Busters

Grease Gun

Brake fluid

A sheet of visqueen about 30'x15'

And that's about it.

Costs me about $60. There is an easier way if you are not opposed to writing a big check - you can also take it to a marina - say "winterize it and store it" and they'll take it from there.Sad.gif I don't want to be having these conversations already.

I have a '94 Echelon...live in IL...family health issues require me to store boat now. Thought with fakealake and cold tap water, thermostat won't open and anti freeze will never circulate thru block...just out exhaust...?

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I have a '94 Echelon...live in IL...family health issues require me to store boat now. Thought with fakealake and cold tap water, thermostat won't open and anti freeze will never circulate thru block...just out exhaust...?

Read it one more time...I pull the thermostat out for that exact reason. Biggrin.gif

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Read it one more time...I pull the thermostat out for that exact reason. Biggrin.gif

So...without water running, you pull thermostat and run coolant into a warm motor and that will distribute coolant thruout block? Thanks...

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So...without water running, you pull thermostat and run coolant into a warm motor and that will distribute coolant thruout block? Thanks...

Don't bother with coolant. Just get all the water out.

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Grant : To the shagrin of some, I try not to give advice. But here is what I do in case you are interested.

With the thermostat removed from the housing, and the housing bolted back on to the engine...here's my process to winterize the boat. (and in my very, very experienced opinion, do put antifreeze through the system. Our cold is wwwaaayyy different than Mississippi cold that the person who said "just get all the water out" experiences).

I have a 5gal bucket with a valve and pipethread spout screwed to the bottom of it.

From that pipethread spout, I run a short 5' length of hose. I made this myself. It was simple, and cost about $3.

I pour about 2-3gals of antifreeze in the bucket with the valve closed.

Disconnect the water intake line that leads from the bottom of the boat to the water pump.

Put the hose from the bucket way up in that line.

2 person job here.

Person 1 - stands in the boat next to the engine holding the bucket above the engine (my bride does this). Her job is to open the valve and keep the hose from kinking on the way to the boat's water pump.

Person 2 - (that's me), starts the boat. As soon as the boat kicks (it's already warmed up from other steps of winterization) I throttle to high idle and tell my bride to open the valve on the bucket (the boat runs for about 3seconds before it has flow through the pump...and that's ok in my experience). The water pump sucks the coolant as it drains out of the bucket and pushes it through every nook and cranny of the engine that had water in it.

Person 2 jumps out of the boat and runs to the back to watch the exhaust water go from clear water, to light pink water/coolant mix, to dark pink. When dark pink, jump back up and kill the motor.

Every passage that could have had water in it, now has antifreeze in it. And if you somehow didn't get it all out, at least it won't hard-freeze as long as nights don't get below -50F.

At that point, I drain the manifolds and block again, confident that any passages that didn't drain by gravity, have antifreeze in them and I'm all good for my Wisconsin winter.

That's just me though. Others do it other ways.

Edited by JeffS
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Grant : To the shagrin of some, I try not to give advice. But here is what I do in case you are interested.

With the thermostat removed from the housing, and the housing bolted back on to the engine...here's my process to winterize the boat. (and in my very, very experienced opinion, do put antifreeze through the system. Our cold is wwwaaayyy different than Mississippi cold that the person who said "just get all the water out" experiences).

I have a 5gal bucket with a valve and pipethread spout screwed to the bottom of it.

From that pipethread spout, I run a short 5' length of hose. I made this myself. It was simple, and cost about $3.

I pour about 2-3gals of antifreeze in the bucket with the valve closed.

Disconnect the water intake line that leads from the bottom of the boat to the water pump.

Put the hose from the bucket way up in that line.

2 person job here.

Person 1 - stands in the boat next to the engine holding the bucket above the engine (my bride does this). Her job is to open the valve and keep the hose from kinking on the way to the boat's water pump.

Person 2 - (that's me), starts the boat. As soon as the boat kicks (it's already warmed up from other steps of winterization) I throttle to high idle and tell my bride to open the valve on the bucket (the boat runs for about 3seconds before it has flow through the pump...and that's ok in my experience). The water pump sucks the coolant as it drains out of the bucket and pushes it through every nook and cranny of the engine that had water in it.

Person 2 jumps out of the boat and runs to the back to watch the exhaust water go from clear water, to light pink water/coolant mix, to dark pink. When dark pink, jump back up and kill the motor.

Every passage that could have had water in it, now has antifreeze in it. And if you somehow didn't get it all out, at least it won't hard-freeze as long as nights don't get below -50F.

At that point, I drain the manifolds and block again, confident that any passages that didn't drain by gravity, have antifreeze in them and I'm all good for my Wisconsin winter.

That's just me though. Others do it other ways.

That is exactly what I do, only thing I do differently is I fog the engine at the same time. Its a dance to get it all done at the same time. :crazy:

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Grant : To the shagrin of some, I try not to give advice. But here is what I do in case you are interested.

With the thermostat removed from the housing, and the housing bolted back on to the engine...here's my process to winterize the boat. (and in my very, very experienced opinion, do put antifreeze through the system. Our cold is wwwaaayyy different than Mississippi cold that the person who said "just get all the water out" experiences).

I have a 5gal bucket with a valve and pipethread spout screwed to the bottom of it.

From that pipethread spout, I run a short 5' length of hose. I made this myself. It was simple, and cost about $3.

I pour about 2-3gals of antifreeze in the bucket with the valve closed.

Disconnect the water intake line that leads from the bottom of the boat to the water pump.

Put the hose from the bucket way up in that line.

2 person job here.

Person 1 - stands in the boat next to the engine holding the bucket above the engine (my bride does this). Her job is to open the valve and keep the hose from kinking on the way to the boat's water pump.

Person 2 - (that's me), starts the boat. As soon as the boat kicks (it's already warmed up from other steps of winterization) I throttle to high idle and tell my bride to open the valve on the bucket (the boat runs for about 3seconds before it has flow through the pump...and that's ok in my experience). The water pump sucks the coolant as it drains out of the bucket and pushes it through every nook and cranny of the engine that had water in it.

Person 2 jumps out of the boat and runs to the back to watch the exhaust water go from clear water, to light pink water/coolant mix, to dark pink. When dark pink, jump back up and kill the motor.

Every passage that could have had water in it, now has antifreeze in it. And if you somehow didn't get it all out, at least it won't hard-freeze as long as nights don't get below -50F.

At that point, I drain the manifolds and block again, confident that any passages that didn't drain by gravity, have antifreeze in them and I'm all good for my Wisconsin winter.

That's just me though. Others do it other ways.

Why wouldn't you just keep the antifreeze in it? It wouldn't hurt anything and you would be that much safer. I know some are for anti-freeze and some are against it. Seems to me to be a personal preference. I like the bucket idea Thumbup.gif

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Why wouldn't you just keep the antifreeze in it? It wouldn't hurt anything and you would be that much safer. I know some are for anti-freeze and some are against it. Seems to me to be a personal preference. I like the bucket idea Thumbup.gif

I drain the water, run the antifreeze and dont re-drain it. I figure draining the water just gets the antifreeze concentration up and leaving the antifreeze in there lets me sleep good in the winter :biggrin:

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I drain the water, run the antifreeze and dont re-drain it. I figure draining the water just gets the antifreeze concentration up and leaving the antifreeze in there lets me sleep good in the winter :biggrin:

Plus1.gif I use full strength Ethylene Glycol from Prestone (green stuff). I drain the block in the spring and collect it back into the jugs and re-use it the next year. This years antifreeze will be on year 5. Biggrin.gif

If you "re-drain" the block and don't have any antifreeze in it it will begin to corrode a bit over the off season. The antifreeze combats the corrosion inside the block. Keep it full!

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I have a 5gal bucket with a valve and pipethread spout screwed to the bottom of it.

From that pipethread spout, I run a short 5' length of hose. I made this myself. It was simple, and cost about $3.

I basically do the same thing, but I have an old cooler with a garden hose fitting I fill with anti-freeze. I always drain the block, shower, and heater before adding the anti-freeze and then turn both on while I'm pouring in the anti-freeze as an extra precaution. Ballast, I just drain my tanks and run all the pumps dry for a little, I've had boats with aerator pumps for 6 years and never once had an issue.

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Did I do this right?

On the starboard side I disconnected and drained the water out of each of the highlighted hoses. I removed the entire hose going to the impeller, planning on fabricating a flush type system that I can use to 1) run the engine with a water hose and 2) suck in antifreeze thru the system

Did I miss anything on this side?

post-8942-128507565395_thumb.jpg

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On the front, it was just the big hose at the bottom, drained it out. After that, I reconnected all of the hoses and poured in 5 gallons of antifreeze thru the spots circled in red. I stopped when antifreeze started leaking out of the exhaust (engine not running).

post-8942-128507593796_thumb.jpg

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