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Fuel Pump Problems


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06’ RLXI 340 monsoon w/160 hrs---I’ve been having an intermittent starting issue. When having the problem the motor will start, the idle will fluctuate a little... once put under load it will die. The fuel pump is very hot. If I cool it down with a wet cloth for few minutes and re-try it will run without issue? I‘m not sure if I’m fixing the problem by cooling the pump down or if it is just coincidental that the boat clears it’s problem. I’ve changed the stock fuel filter still the problem is there. I took the stock fuel filter out and installed a High performance highly rated canister fuel flitter, still the problem is there??? It seems like the pump is either getting a vapour lock and is working dry and heating up. Or the computer is intermittently not sending the signal to the pump load up at start up? I’m not sure what to check next?

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Sounds like vapor lock to me. Does it happen after you've run the boat pretty hard for any length of time. There has been a few mods to remedy this, insulating fuel lines/pump, moving pump and lines farther away from the engine. Not sure if the results have been worth it though.

I haven't experienced it since I started using higher octane fuel and turn my blower on every time we shut the boat down.

Edited by Ndawg12
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I think your boat was the last year for having two fuel filters. Did you change them both?

I did not know I may have two filters??? Where would the second fliter be located, if I changed the one mid floor beside the mufflers?

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Sounds like vapor lock to me. Does it happen after you've run the boat pretty hard for any length of time. There has been a few mods to remedy this, insulating fuel lines/pump, moving pump and lines farther away from the engine. Not sure if the results have been worth it though.

I haven't experienced it since I started using higher octane fuel and turn my blower on every time we shut the boat down.

I have been using the blower more often, however will try using higher octane fuel. It seems like happens only when the boat sits for 20 minutes or longer and never will act up when cold.

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You got it figured out. Vapor lock. Best cure is to cool pump as you are doing. I open my engine hatch after long run and then stopping for over 10 minutes. That is when the heat soaks into the pump and vaporizes it. I am going to put another bilge blower in the compartment to blow directly on the pump and use it when I stop. The stock blower removes heat from compartment but not enough. I think blowing air directly on the pump will cure this. I have unused accessory switches to tie this new blower into.

They do make another pump to put inline ahead of the regular pump but if I recall correctly, it is well over $100. You could call Indmar for that part #.

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You got it figured out. Vapor lock. Best cure is to cool pump as you are doing. I open my engine hatch after long run and then stopping for over 10 minutes. That is when the heat soaks into the pump and vaporizes it. I am going to put another bilge blower in the compartment to blow directly on the pump and use it when I stop. The stock blower removes heat from compartment but not enough. I think blowing air directly on the pump will cure this. I have unused accessory switches to tie this new blower into.

They do make another pump to put inline ahead of the regular pump but if I recall correctly, it is well over $100. You could call Indmar for that part #.

Thanks for the imput. It all makes sense. When I go back to the lake I'm going to insulate my fuel lines, set up a secondary blower fan in bilge area and only run high test fuel. Hopefully this will cure my problems. What's crazy is I've owned the boat for almost 3 seasons now and only this summer I've had the problems. This summer has been a little warmer... but I think I'm beginning to realize the biggest problem is quality of fuel has decreased.

Thanks

Again...happy skiing

Steve

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Thanks for the imput. It all makes sense. When I go back to the lake I'm going to insulate my fuel lines, set up a secondary blower fan in bilge area and only run high test fuel. Hopefully this will cure my problems. What's crazy is I've owned the boat for almost 3 seasons now and only this summer I've had the problems. This summer has been a little warmer... but I think I'm beginning to realize the biggest problem is quality of fuel has decreased.Thanks

Again...happy skiing

Steve

Exactly, I never had a problem my first year, but this year it started to become a regular occurance, so I switched from 87 to 93 and haven't noticed it again. I don't know the physics behind it but it seems to be working for me.

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I did not know I may have two filters??? Where would the second fliter be located, if I changed the one mid floor beside the mufflers?

You don't, just the one, 01 was the last year for the high and low pressure filters on the monsoon.

-Chris

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You don't need a second blower. Just run the one you have when you shut the boat down and run higher octane as others have said. Even with Ethanol and a hot Tennessee summer, I haven't had one problem with vapor lock by following this advice.

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You don't need a second blower. Just run the one you have when you shut the boat down and run higher octane as others have said. Even with Ethanol and a hot Tennessee summer, I haven't had one problem with vapor lock by following this advice.

Blower and higher octane doesn't always do the trick. It removes heat from compartment but still have all the heat soaking from the block to the pump. I know about the TN. summer, been out every weekend since May. If I have air actually circulating on the pump, I think that will help more than lowering the compartment Temp.

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