shower

[tvano]

shower has historically been great since '04.

late this spring the volume of cold was not sufficient. i like a good hot shower but not quite that hot.

did all of the usual but it didn't help. one of the crew told me several times to check the fittings on the back of the mixer valve; his was cross threaded and showed the same symptoms. i checked all fittings several times. no help.

i finally rigged a garden hose at the pick-up points and removed the fittings from the mixer.

plenty of volume (and roughly equal) through both the hot and cold circuits.

connected the fittings and turned the mixer valves off and it showed me a small leak on the cold side at the point where the blue hose is crimped onto the "L" fitting. replaced the crimp with a hose clamp and repeated the test and it showed slight leakage between the "L" and the back of the valve body. i'm guessing that, over time, the plastic parts deformed enough to leak a little. lucked out and had an o-ring that fit perfectly.

took a close look at the fittings on the hot circuit and decided to do the same (hose clamp vice crimped brass and add an o-ring) mods there, too.

note: the hot and cold hoses have 4 to 6 inches of plastic shrink tubing over a crimped brass cylinder at the mixer end. i removed these plastic pieces to expose and remove (cut w hack saw) the crimped brass. one (can't remember which) has a check valve at the mixer. seems odd that only one would have a check valve.

shower acts great again, just in time for the summer heat to taper.

the moral is that it doesn't take much of an air leak (since the leak is on the suction side of the system) to unbalance the shower.

[rodman]

TV I am having issues also with the cold water. Where we live our nights are getting colder and the water is going to get cold fast. I like you like the water warm not 160 I am having a cold water issue. Have been checking everything also. I am sure it is a mixing issue just can't find it.

[SunDoo]

TV I am having issues also with the cold water. Where we live our nights are getting colder and the water is going to get cold fast. I like you like the water warm not 160 I am having a cold water issue. Have been checking everything also. I am sure it is a mixing issue just can't find it.

Ditto! I can't seem to get any water from the source to the mixing valve. I have a T in the hose before the trans cooler. I can blow air by mouth thru every hose and mixing valve so no blockage. Not sure if the tee is providing enough or any flow.

[tvano]

there is a small screen in each of the water control valves at the mixer.

pull the mixer off, pull 2 small screws from the sides to split the metal case.

at the rear of each valve there is a removable piece allowing access to the screens.

clean the screens out and i'll bet a dollar to a donut you will be in good shape.

[tvano]

i lied in post #1.

turns out that this was another good idea that didn't work.

i'm back to the same / original problem: scalding hot for the first 60 seconds after a slalom set then temps. get back to normal until the next slalom set.

now i'm beginning to wonder what the purpose of that check valve is.

anyone know?

Edited October 1, 2010 by tvano

[tvano]

that check valve is the solution to problem that i have been having.

apparently, at speed, there is more pressure in the hot water supply line than there is in the cold water supply line.

the cold water line gets filled w hot water then when the shower gets turned on you have hot + hot at the mixer until the cold water line gets purged.

that check valve will keep the cold water line from seeing water from the hot side of the mixer.

[tvano]

heater craft does not sell the check valve.

first i was told i had to buy $18 cold water hose to get the valve.

then i was told that they no longer use a check valve.

i don't know (wasn't smart enough to ask when i had them on the phone) how they avoid this problem in the current oem units.

i did find / order a similar check valve from mcmaster-carr.

i will post part numbers when i get the new valve installed and checked-out.

Edited October 1, 2010 by tvano

[BuFootin]

heater craft does not sell the check valve.

i was told that they no longer use a check valve.

i don't (wasn't smart enough to ask when i had them on the phone) know how they avoid this problem in the current oem units.

i did find / order a similar check valve from mcmaster-carr.

i will post part numbers when i get the new valve installed and checked-out.

when you guys have the shower pump turned on to use it, do you also have your engine running? I too have a problem getting enough cold water flow to mix with the hot. Consequently the water is too hot. But if the engine is running I get good cold water flow and can adjust the water temp to my and my crews liking. I've pulled my shower system all apart checking for leaks and clogged screens and found nothing wrong. Gonna just settled for running the engine when I use the shower.

I am interested in the resolution to your situation.

[Molarbu]

when you guys have the shower pump turned on to use it, do you also have your engine running? I too have a problem getting enough cold water flow to mix with the hot. Consequently the water is too hot. But if the engine is running I get good cold water flow and can adjust the water temp to my and my crews liking. I've pulled my shower system all apart checking for leaks and clogged screens and found nothing wrong. Gonna just settled for running the engine when I use the shower.

I am interested in the resolution to your situation.

The engine has to be on to get any cold to mix period. The cold supply is from the lake so if the engine isn't running, the raw water pump isn't supplying any cold water to the boat to use for the shower system.

[tvano]

this long sad story just keeps getting longer.

the check valve is the problem, no doubt.

the "2987K27 FDA-Compliant Nylon Check Valve for 3/8" Tube ID, 1-15/16" End-to-End Length $3.99 Each" from mcmaster carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#2987k27/=935bxv) is, for all appearances, the exact same part. installed it and it did solve the temporary scalding issue but that valve did not allow enough cold water through it. it was too hot all the time. luckily, due to cost of part and shipping, i had ordered two valves.

i plumbed them in parallel and now have a fully functional (cluged/ jury rigged) shower. i have submitted a tech request to heatercraft asking how they solved this problem w/o using a check valve in their new units. i also asked for part numbers and suppliers for that check valve that heatercraft no longer uses.

i will continue this saga when i hear back from them.

[pup]

Couldn't you scrap the check valves & just close the cold valve when you aren't using the shower? That would prevent the cold line from filling with hot water.

[tvano]

Couldn't you scrap the check valves & just close the cold valve when you aren't using the shower? That would prevent the cold line from filling with hot water.

yes. good idea and that was how i finally determined that the check valve was the problem.

but:

the mixer valve is in the ski locker.

the shower is running full time while we are gearing up for a run on the swim platform.

when the air and water temps are cold we are naughty and run the shower (hence engine) until dropping in for the run.

typically only driver and skier in the boat.

reaching the mixer valve and closing the lid on the ski locker is difficult, at best, with a ski on.

things (and stuff, too) should work properly. especially on my boat. the house; not so much.

[pup]

If the pump is in the motor box, you could scrap the mixer in the locker. My shower is home made. I used a ball valve at each supply. Both hoses are about 2 ft long, they meet at a junction & supply the pump. I get the blast of hot like you described but it only lasts 5 seconds. The ball valves stay at full hot & half cold. Never have to adjust them.