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1987 Skier - Cracked Block - Tips for Removal


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Hello there experts. New to this forum. Proud owner of a 1987 Skier which was not winterized last season and has a cracked block.

Questions:

1. Repair Manual / Owners Manual - Can any one point me to an online version, or where I can order (short of ebay hunting)?

2. Any tips / specific guidance on removing the motor from the boat? I have done plenty of Chev 350's in autos, so the best way to separate the trans / drive shaft for this application is of particular interest.

3. Boat has 360 total hours. Floors feel very solid. Visual inspection from bilge look like the wood is in good shape. Saw plenty of rust on the ski pole where it attaches to the hull (plan on POR 15'ing this, unless there is other guidance).

4. Any other tips, suggestions, look out fors?

Thanks folks.

Kevin

Lake Stevens, WA 98258

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I just removed my 86 skier 351w this weekend,i suspect it should be about the same, easiest ive ever pulled. just remove the trans bolts, wiring and hoses and motor mounts, the motor only needs to comeforward a couple inches and slides right out. Easiest ive ever done

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I just removed my 86 skier 351w this weekend,i suspect it should be about the same, easiest ive ever pulled. just remove the trans bolts, wiring and hoses and motor mounts, the motor only needs to comeforward a couple inches and slides right out. Easiest ive ever done

i am local, call me 253-377-6399

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Is it cracked so badly that you HAVE to pull it? I fixed a crack in mine without pulling the motor... took all of about 15 minutes and I've had no issues with the motor in 75hrs. Obviously it depends on the severity of the crack, but some are easily (and cheaply) fixable...

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Is it cracked so badly that you HAVE to pull it? I fixed a crack in mine without pulling the motor... took all of about 15 minutes and I've had no issues with the motor in 75hrs. Obviously it depends on the severity of the crack, but some are easily (and cheaply) fixable...

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. This sucker is spilt along both water jackets. Crack is 3-4" or so near top of the block, about 3/4" below the heads. Given the exposed, upper edge of the crack, I would suspect there are cracks, or weep points, at other places as well. Don't know that applying some cold fusion (or similar) will solve this one. I also don't have the boat transported to my shop yet, as I am going out of town tomorrow through the weekend . . . so I don't even know if the engine will crank over at this point. Didn't look (according to the dip stick anyway) that water made its way into the crank case. How large of a crack did you manage to seal up? What material did you use to accomplish the task? Fantastic solution for you . . 75 hours don't lie!

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I just removed my 86 skier 351w this weekend,i suspect it should be about the same, easiest ive ever pulled. just remove the trans bolts, wiring and hoses and motor mounts, the motor only needs to comeforward a couple inches and slides right out. Easiest ive ever done

So you separated the engine from the trans at the bell housing? Nice thing about these inboards, once that cover is pulled, no one can complain about having enough room to work on them. It is a mechanics dream. Looking forward to getting it out.

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So you separated the engine from the trans at the bell housing? Nice thing about these inboards, once that cover is pulled, no one can complain about having enough room to work on them. It is a mechanics dream. Looking forward to getting it out.

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yes, and left the front cover on with all the goodies and pulled it all out at once

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Thanks everyone for the quick replies. This sucker is spilt along both water jackets. Crack is 3-4" or so near top of the block, about 3/4" below the heads. Given the exposed, upper edge of the crack, I would suspect there are cracks, or weep points, at other places as well. Don't know that applying some cold fusion (or similar) will solve this one. I also don't have the boat transported to my shop yet, as I am going out of town tomorrow through the weekend . . . so I don't even know if the engine will crank over at this point. Didn't look (according to the dip stick anyway) that water made its way into the crank case. How large of a crack did you manage to seal up? What material did you use to accomplish the task? Fantastic solution for you . . 75 hours don't lie!

I had a crack about 3" long in what sounds about like the same area. It even had a VERY small amount of water weep out the crack, but would still run. No water in the oil at all...

To fix it, I took an air drill and drilled a small hole at either end of the crack, to stop it from continuing. Then I took a die-grinder with a sanding disc and grooved out the crack so it was somewhat like a "V". Then I got some marine grade "JB Weld" and laid it in there nice and smooth, applying it liberally. I let it dry for a long time before I ran the motor. Like I said, it's held with no problems thus far. It even lasted through an Impeller loss in which the motor got EXREMELY HOT!!! I'm not gonna say it's the best, strongest the motor has ever been, but the boat come out of the hole like she's comin out of the gates at the Derby and she'll do 42-45 with a decent load... that's a good enough fix for me!

I realize that I'll have to change the block at some point, but right now I'm getting as much out of the summer as I possibly can!

Good luck in whichever way you go...

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I had a crack about 3" long in what sounds about like the same area. It even had a VERY small amount of water weep out the crack, but would still run. No water in the oil at all...

To fix it, I took an air drill and drilled a small hole at either end of the crack, to stop it from continuing. Then I took a die-grinder with a sanding disc and grooved out the crack so it was somewhat like a "V". Then I got some marine grade "JB Weld" and laid it in there nice and smooth, applying it liberally. I let it dry for a long time before I ran the motor. Like I said, it's held with no problems thus far. It even lasted through an Impeller loss in which the motor got EXREMELY HOT!!! I'm not gonna say it's the best, strongest the motor has ever been, but the boat come out of the hole like she's comin out of the gates at the Derby and she'll do 42-45 with a decent load... that's a good enough fix for me!

I realize that I'll have to change the block at some point, but right now I'm getting as much out of the summer as I possibly can!

Good luck in whichever way you go...

Thanks for the details. Mine is split both sides. I am assuming (hoping at this point) that the exhaust manifolds are ok. Was yours split on both sides as well? Thanks again.

Kevin

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Mine was split on the port side only and it was just a hairline split, which is probably why my repair worked... I'm not a serious motorhead, so not sure how much repair you can get away with on these. My main goal was to make it through the summer and then worry about changing the block out over the winter... So far I'm getting lucky and that plan is working!

Let us know what you decide to do as I'm interested to see how hard it is to swap out the block on one of these as I'll probably be doing the same before too long... :(

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Is it possible to pull the motor out with a cherry picker while the boat is on the trailer, or do I need a gantry hoist?

I think a chain fall would be required. The side of the boat has got to be nearly 4' . . . you would need another 2'+ for the engine, plus top of the hoist with enough drop to clear the arm of the hoist .. . . so the you would most likely need a picker where the boom would reach 8'+?

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I think a chain fall would be required. The side of the boat has got to be nearly 4' . . . you would need another 2'+ for the engine, plus top of the hoist with enough drop to clear the arm of the hoist .. . . so the you would most likely need a picker where the boom would reach 8'+?

i pulled mine with a reg. cherry picker and i have a tower also, i left mine on the trailer and came from the side, not a big deal,

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  • 4 months later...

Hi Guys and Gals

I'm restoring my 1987 Malibu 19' Skier, I have had everything re done from the floor to the squre windows, even new travel cover. I'm looking to purchase and install a tower, any help on what size I need?

I'm currently in the Middle East and have no way of checking the size I need?

Any Help would be great

Thanks

Doug

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