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Elete Trailer Brakes and Hydraulics


TBone

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Hey Crew, Got a 2001 Sunsetter LXi with Malibu Custom Elete trailer single axle with surge brakes. Not 100% sure but I believe they may be Titan hubs/drums/bearing package. I am having my local auto shop take a look and inspect, but wanted to know if anyone has done some maintenance on these packages and could share a little "how-to" and what to expect in terms of cost and needed repairs. I am tempted to do it myself.

Also, the Parker Quick connect for the surge brakes is rusted badly (previous owner did not take care of this boat/trailer!) and really needs to be replaced. I have it working with a lot of PB Blaster and T9 Boshield but it's not great. Has anyone replaced this and if so, how did it go?

TBone

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Pete - no the surge actuator is made by Tie Down Engineering and is Model 66. The brakes are drum brakes.

Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated.

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Well then, can't help you.

I'm sort of an expert with the UFP stuff since (unfortunately) I've replaced ever single stinkin' part of that friggin' system. :rant:

But, enough about me, what are your problems exactly with your trailer.

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Thanks Pete. No major problems pulling it about 300 miles a month ago, but I bought the boat used and I am getting ready for a big trip (about 1800 miles round trip). I can hear a little bit of what sounds like metal on metal with my windows open coming to a slow stop, but I have checked the hubs and they are packed with grease and I constantly checked on my last runs to see if the housings are hot. Nothing out of the norm, just warm. My thought is that there has never been any maintenance done on this trailer and hubs have never been repacked. It definitely sat outside a long time by all the surface rust build up. The surge is a little sticky and likes to buck my Sequoia at higher speeds and slight declines. Nothing major here. I have towed a lot vehicles and it's not out of the ordinary, however, would love to know how to adjust that in the actuator to stop the brakes from grabbing.

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Thanks Pete. No major problems pulling it about 300 miles a month ago, but I bought the boat used and I am getting ready for a big trip (about 1800 miles round trip). I can hear a little bit of what sounds like metal on metal with my windows open coming to a slow stop, but I have checked the hubs and they are packed with grease and I constantly checked on my last runs to see if the housings are hot. Nothing out of the norm, just warm. My thought is that there has never been any maintenance done on this trailer and hubs have never been repacked. It definitely sat outside a long time by all the surface rust build up. The surge is a little sticky and likes to buck my Sequoia at higher speeds and slight declines. Nothing major here. I have towed a lot vehicles and it's not out of the ordinary, however, would love to know how to adjust that in the actuator to stop the brakes from grabbing.

i got the same elete trailer under my 99 ss lxi. what problems are you having? i just repacked and put new seals on my trailer along with bleeding the system and filling with fresh brake fluid and adjusting the shoes up. if the bearings have never been checked or repacked with fresh grease then it way over do. where are you located? i'd be willing to help ya if your close.... steve

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Hey Crew, Got a 2001 Sunsetter LXi with Malibu Custom Elete trailer single axle with surge brakes. Not 100% sure but I believe they may be Titan hubs/drums/bearing package. I am having my local auto shop take a look and inspect, but wanted to know if anyone has done some maintenance on these packages and could share a little "how-to" and what to expect in terms of cost and needed repairs. I am tempted to do it myself.

Also, the Parker Quick connect for the surge brakes is rusted badly (previous owner did not take care of this boat/trailer!) and really needs to be replaced. I have it working with a lot of PB Blaster and T9 Boshield but it's not great. Has anyone replaced this and if so, how did it go?

TBone

Hey TBone,

I have the same trailer. I replaced an actuator spring underneath, the fluid cap on top, drained the fluid, bled in more fluid after I pulled the hubs, put in new bearings, installed new brake shoes, installed new seals and new bearing buddies ( the better grade ). That was all under a hundred bucks.

I run about 1200+ miles a year and pull the hubs every other year and check everything, new seals and grease.

So far it runs good and stops real nice.

All the parts are locally available, probably cheaper at the camper store as the brake system is an old one but reliable.

I can give you instructions if you need them, its all simple if you have a hand to help out.

If your thinking about keeping the trailer for a while and have a few bucks, for about $500.00 you can get a disc kit and a new actuator for discs and if you shop hard you can find new lines for that price.

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Hey TBone,

I have the same trailer. I replaced an actuator spring underneath, the fluid cap on top, drained the fluid, bled in more fluid after I pulled the hubs, put in new bearings, installed new brake shoes, installed new seals and new bearing buddies ( the better grade ). That was all under a hundred bucks.

I run about 1200+ miles a year and pull the hubs every other year and check everything, new seals and grease.

So far it runs good and stops real nice.

All the parts are locally available, probably cheaper at the camper store as the brake system is an old one but reliable.

I can give you instructions if you need them, its all simple if you have a hand to help out.

If your thinking about keeping the trailer for a while and have a few bucks, for about $500.00 you can get a disc kit and a new actuator for discs and if you shop hard you can find new lines for that price.

Deck Hand - thanks for the great info. I am planning on keeping this for a long time and I take long trips with my kids to the Adirondacks all the way from Wisconsin so I need this to be in top working order. I have my auto shop looking at it today actually and getting me qoutes on new tires. I'm amazed you can do all that for under a $100 so I am very interested in doing this myself. I have the equipment. Looks like you are in Michigan. I appreciate the offer and wish I could take you up on it. Instructions would be great on your process and much appreciated. Saving money and knowing it's done right are good things.

Thanks, TBone

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Deck Hand - thanks for the great info. I am planning on keeping this for a long time and I take long trips with my kids to the Adirondacks all the way from Wisconsin so I need this to be in top working order. I have my auto shop looking at it today actually and getting me qoutes on new tires. I'm amazed you can do all that for under a $100 so I am very interested in doing this myself. I have the equipment. Looks like you are in Michigan. I appreciate the offer and wish I could take you up on it. Instructions would be great on your process and much appreciated. Saving money and knowing it's done right are good things.

Thanks, TBone

Thanks to you also Steve, I got it confused. Would take you up on AnnArbor but I am in Milwaukee area. How you guys bleed the line and refill with out any air would be expecially helpful. I have the quick connect (Parker) to the actuator at the tung. Do you guys have the removable tung for storage?

T

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Thanks to you also Steve, I got it confused. Would take you up on AnnArbor but I am in Milwaukee area. How you guys bleed the line and refill with out any air would be expecially helpful. I have the quick connect (Parker) to the actuator at the tung. Do you guys have the removable tung for storage?

T

i don't have the swing away tounge. i take a pair of big channel locks and can pump the hitch where the ball connects. push all the old brake fluid out and keep adding new so you don't run the master cylinder dry, keep pumping until the fluid comes out the bleeder screw clean and then use a friend to open and close the bleeder to get the rest of the air out. if nobody can help, use a empty pop bottle and fill about a third full of fresh brake fluid. use a piece of 3/16 vacuum hose and push it over the bleeder and crack it open, run the other end in the pop bottle. pump until you don't see any bubbles.

i just replaced the bearings and races and seals. if you have the 6000lb axle, the numbers should be inner brg 25580 inner race 25520.

outer brg lm67048 outer race lm67010. grease seal 2125 or gs2125sl

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i don't have the swing away tounge. i take a pair of big channel locks and can pump the hitch where the ball connects. push all the old brake fluid out and keep adding new so you don't run the master cylinder dry, keep pumping until the fluid comes out the bleeder screw clean and then use a friend to open and close the bleeder to get the rest of the air out. if nobody can help, use a empty pop bottle and fill about a third full of fresh brake fluid. use a piece of 3/16 vacuum hose and push it over the bleeder and crack it open, run the other end in the pop bottle. pump until you don't see any bubbles.

i just replaced the bearings and races and seals. if you have the 6000lb axle, the numbers should be inner brg 25580 inner race 25520.

outer brg lm67048 outer race lm67010. grease seal 2125 or gs2125sl

Awesome. Thank you for the info. and the part no.s

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Here are a couple of good videos that should help you with removing your hubs and replacing/repacking you bearings

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.aspx

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.aspx

I also have an elete trailer for my 98 Sunsetter, but mine only has a 3500 Lb axle. Here are the links to the bearings. As you can see, bearings are pretty standard based on axle rating.

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Bearings_and_Races-pc-3500_lbs_Axle.aspx

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  • 1 month later...

Here are a couple of good videos that should help you with removing your hubs and replacing/repacking you bearings

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.aspx

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-remove_reinstall_trailer_hub.aspx

I also have an elete trailer for my 98 Sunsetter, but mine only has a 3500 Lb axle. Here are the links to the bearings. As you can see, bearings are pretty standard based on axle rating.

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Bearings_and_Races-pc-3500_lbs_Axle.aspx

Can anyone tell menhow long your elite trailer is?

Thanks a lot

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  • 2 years later...
  • 9 years later...

I am looking to replace the actuator, brake lines, and brake/drum assembly on my 1996 Elete Single-Axle trailer. My boat is still in storage 3.5 hours away. Has anyone performed this surgery recently and has the part#s or sizes of items? My plan is to order the parts from etrailer.com.

Axle Rating: Does the GVWR or Carry tell me that? 3,500lb?

Actuator: If I'm going to go with Surge/Hydralic Drum again, then I shouldn't need to worry about buying one with the electric brake lockout, correct?

Bearings/Races/Seals: 

Drum Brake Assembly: What size diameter? My plan is to buy this already assembled

 

PXL_20210426_171914246.jpg

PXL_20210426_171946709.jpg

Edited by DataCowboy
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