buffed by dealership

[Gundocrew]

So I went to harbor freight and bought the variable speed polisher. I went to the local body shop dealer to pick up a sanding sponge and some of the polishing compound and he told me all i needed to do was use the 3M buffing compound and forget about using the 2000 grit wet sand paper because the rubbing compound takes care of that. Still confused, if rubbing compound is like using 2000 grit why are you sanding with all those other sand papers before using the compound. It just seems like a lot of unnecessary steps. Anyways I feel like I should be able to to this job but after starting it I could see where an experienced person could really speed the process up using the polisher. I felt like a complete moron. I don't know what Im more afraid of how much time its going to take because I don't know what Im doing or being afraid of messing the whole thing up. I pretty close to calling someone with experience detailing boats to come out and give me hand. Anyways if I continue on what are the recommendations for the decal stickers off or on during this whole process? If I take them off do I need to buy new ones? Thanks again, would like to go out there today and do it but would like to know what to do with the decal stickers before I start.

[stroker-ace]

i took it to the best buffer guy in town he is highly recommended around here he sanded on one spot and buffed it. he spent close to and hour on it. he told me it was hopeless lol. he just said call a body shop and have it cleared. after seeing some of these pics of other boats it i feel like maybe i could get it better.

"hopeless" is car speak for "I dont want to f#@k with it".

[seekinasylum]

I wet sanded and buffed my boat and im very happy w it. It took me about 8 hrs. its not perfect for my first time using a buffer but i get complements like crazy on it now. lesson i learned dont take boat to a body shop and dont even consider clear coat on a boat.

[seekinasylum]

As far as the decals go if u can take those off and get new ones when your done do it. i had already put my new ones on then decided to buff. it takes alot of time to sand around them and u gotta be extra careful w buffer. i hit them w the buffer some but u really cant tell, just take your time and try not to hit them, easier said then done.

[Bobby Light]

So I went to harbor freight and bought the variable speed polisher. I went to the local body shop dealer to pick up a sanding sponge and some of the polishing compound and he told me all i needed to do was use the 3M buffing compound and forget about using the 2000 grit wet sand paper because the rubbing compound takes care of that. Still confused, if rubbing compound is like using 2000 grit why are you sanding with all those other sand papers before using the compound. It just seems like a lot of unnecessary steps. Anyways I feel like I should be able to to this job but after starting it I could see where an experienced person could really speed the process up using the polisher. I felt like a complete moron. I don't know what Im more afraid of how much time its going to take because I don't know what Im doing or being afraid of messing the whole thing up. I pretty close to calling someone with experience detailing boats to come out and give me hand. Anyways if I continue on what are the recommendations for the decal stickers off or on during this whole process? If I take them off do I need to buy new ones? Thanks again, would like to go out there today and do it but would like to know what to do with the decal stickers before I start.

The other sandpaper grits are to feather the deeper scratches out. If you can't catch a scratch with your finger nail then just use the compound and buffer for now. Keep it at 1500-2000 rpm until you get used to using it. Use plenty of the buffing compound and wipe it away if it dries. For the decals leave them on no need to take them off. Use painters tape (blue) to tape off all the emblems and decals incase you hit them with the buffer to prevent burning them. It's a good idea to tape off the rub rail to (especially if you don't have the stainless) because you will burn the rubber part if you hit it with the buffer.

Just relax and take your time. It's really hard to mess it up if you keep the rpm's low on the buffer (around 1500) to start. Stay away from the sharp corners and edges until you get the hang of it. Keep the buffer as flat as possible, avoid putting a bind on it on the edge of the pad because it will heat up alot faster on that edge. You want to utilize the whole surface area of the pad to help you keep from getting the gel to hot.

Edited August 30, 2010 by 06vlx

[martinarcher]

I wet sanded and buffed my boat and im very happy w it. It took me about 8 hrs. its not perfect for my first time using a buffer but i get complements like crazy on it now. lesson i learned dont take boat to a body shop and dont even consider clear coat on a boat.

Sweet! Glad to hear it turned out good.

Right on...no body shops for boats!

Now get a good coat of Collinite's wax on it and you'll be getting compliments for a long time!

[seekinasylum]

yes sir right after i buffed it i put two coats of Collinite's wax on it then waxed my truck and tahoe w it GREAT STUFF

[martinarcher]

yes sir right after i buffed it i put two coats of Collinite's wax on it then waxed my truck and tahoe w it GREAT STUFF

Good man. Now your talking!

[Gundocrew]

Any Collinite's wax? Which one do you recommend?

[Bobby Light]

Any Collinite's wax? Which one do you recommend?

The Fleet Paste Wax is the shizzle, however I'm sure anything Collinite is great.

[martinarcher]

The Fleet Paste Wax is the shizzle, however I'm sure anything Collinite is great.

Fleet Paste Wax or the Insulator Wax/Fiberglass Boat Wax both rock.