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Bilge Pump Automatic Operation?


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I have an '08 Wakesetter 23 LSV. I have the MUX switch panels that have a switch (when key is on) that indicated Bilge - On/Off. When I have my boat moored, I am assuming that the bilge will operate automatically as needed? And that this switch is really only for manual operation?

Thanks!!

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Your assumption is correct. The bilge has a internal float and as long as you have the battery hooked up it should kick on once water reaches a certain level.

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  • 8 years later...

I have the same boat. It’s been raining here in Seattle and even with a full cover, there was a good 5-6” of water this evening so the automatic part was not working on my boat.. is the switch built in or external?

just to confirm — the mux  bilge switch can be off and the bilge pump should be automatic?

even when it’s on it’s very slow... has anyone replaced this with a bigger one and even added a 2nd automatic?

ive noticed sometimes I need to add water to the rear ballast tanks in order to get the bilge pump to turn on (even with the ditch turned on) and start draining ...

also there was 1/4” + of water in the glove compartment :(... I’m assuming the only way that could have happened was the top black cover is just leaking water? I can try a second coat of Starbrite?

Edited by Argonaut
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Hello,   I have a 15 LSV. I’ve had to replace both bilge pumps (yes there are 2 in mine). They are both automatic. There is a wire with a fuse attached to the main battery. You can easily check the fuse.

The front bilge is a whale brand and senses water. That one had a burnt motor and would not work at all.

The rear one is a Sahara automatic pump with a built in float switch. The float switch part failed and would not turn on the pump. It has a small knob on the side. You can twist the knob and verify operation. 

Hope this helps!

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Thanks Ballay. It runs but I don’t think the auto part is working at all.

I suspect it’s time for me to learn how to get into one of the side rear areas and get a closer look ...

Are there any photos on this forum where someone added a bilge pump to their front ballast pump access area and how they routed the hose etc? I’m not sure where all the access points are to get the hose (and wires too) routed...

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Glove comp water comes from vent opening just under windshield possibly where it runs down the outside of vent tube that means inside of your glove 

water saturated cover so at windshield contact point it can run down front of windshield and enter vent or can leak down backside of windshield as well dripping on to top glove lid or a front mount door like my Axis  

Edited by granddaddy55
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4 hours ago, Argonaut said:

I suspect it’s time for me to learn how to get into one of the side rear areas and get a closer look ...

It's been a while but I believe you should be able to pinch both sides in on lower part of the pump and it will detach from the plastic housing that is screwed into the hull/bilge.  Then inspect.  Considering the previous owner of your boat and if they didn't take much care of keeping the bilge clean, and the pump is mounted in the rear where buildup will hangout, your auto lever might be gummed up.

For easier access to the rear port side engine compartment, remove the obvious large panel but also there is a smaller second panel that has two screws.  That should give you lots of room to service that bilge pump

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Thanks Granddaddy55. I see the need now to order a new cover and will have that done shortly.

Hawaiinstyln,

i see the obvious big one... where is the little one you are writing about... is that part of the floor or ?

Ballay,

Thanks for the link... going to read that now :)

I really appreciate each of you stepping in to help and explain!

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2 hours ago, Argonaut said:

Thanks Granddaddy55. I see the need now to order a new cover and will have that done shortly.

Hawaiinstyln,

i see the obvious big one... where is the little one you are writing about... is that part of the floor or ?

Ballay,

Thanks for the link... going to read that now :)

I really appreciate each of you stepping in to help and explain!

You will only have one bilge pump in Your year in the back. 2015 they stated putting another pump in the access panel In floor by driver as that is the lowest part of bait and most water collects there when boat is level. 

Edited by wheelman
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You may only need to clean and re coat your current cover , and possibly coat the padding material tgat contacts windshield and rear locker covers underneath, one guy just coated his underside of whole cover which if you maintain cover right is the cleanest part to coat, now I think I know why he did underneath !!

Edited by granddaddy55
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7 hours ago, Argonaut said:

I want to add a second one in that access panel... has anyone documented how and where they opened the panels to run the hoses and wiring needed for it?

With the Walmart one above you  only remove the footwell and fish drain and wire from access hatch to footbwrll area and now your gonna have to drill a thru hull thru side exit, the wire to battery can also probably route same as switch wire and drain and go over to battery area with the stereo stuff from there,

or to the left fish wire to the opening for vent in floor of coffin 

i have a raised walkthrough locker with side panels that could be removed to help but don’t know yours

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I crawled down next to the engine and removed the top half of the bilge pump . The float goes up and down freely but the pump does not actually turn on until the dash switch is turned on and then it’s on (the float switch does nothing)....

so either automatic part is not wired up or something inside the auto part is broken.

im going to take another look once the rain stops again :)

I’m looking at the lopro rule pump LP900S... they (rule) have worked well for me in prior boats with separate auto floats.

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15 hours ago, granddaddy55 said:

With the Walmart one above you  only remove the footwell and fish drain and wire from access hatch to footbwrll area and now your gonna have to drill a thru hull thru side exit, the wire to battery can also probably route same as switch wire and drain and go over to battery area with the stereo stuff from there,

or to the left fish wire to the opening for vent in floor of coffin 

i have a raised walkthrough locker with side panels that could be removed to help but don’t know yours

He can just tee into either the drain or the vent hose from his center or bow ballast for the new bilge pump. 

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18 hours ago, justgary said:

Or worse, from ballast into bilge....

Boy does that stink if you don’t fully drain them, definitely tsp the vent line which should have less stinky stuff and you don’t compete with drain line pump in that line if both running which is likely 

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What blows me away is you guys saying that ‘15 Malibu’s only have a rear bilge , kind of useless sounding to me, why would my 14’ Axis have two that both run on  auto including a center one  !

it can’t be because front MLS?

Edited by granddaddy55
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1 hour ago, granddaddy55 said:

Boy does that stink if you don’t fully drain them, definitely tsp the vent line which should have less stinky stuff and you don’t compete with drain line pump in that line if both running which is likely 

I wasn't referring to smell, I was referring to the inability to remove water from the boat if he doesn't have a one-way valve on the bilge output (and he hooks the bilge output to the ballast output). 

I am of the opinion that your bilge pump should never run, but if it does, you have a problem and want the water out of the boat *now*.  Moving it to a big baggie in the boat doesn't help at all. 

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