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Plug wires


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I was talking to a mechanic that I go to and was asking him about my plug wires on my boat and he sad that the Ohms resistance should be about 1K, I checked mine and they were about 4K, are these wires toast? that was my coil wire that I tested, are they supposed to be over 1K or under, has anyone ever tested the resistance on their plug wires?

thanks for any help.

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The length of your wires will effect the ohm reading, it's measured in ohms per foot.

Spark plug wires should be checked at 10,XXX range!

Edited by 68Slalom
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If they have a few hundred hours on them, doesn't hurt to change them.

Make sure to squirt dielectric grease in the boots before installing.

For an 05, which has the round style cap/rotor, you can get wires at kragen.

Tell them you have a 95 Chevy suburban, 4x4, 5.7L.

I've personally used these wires, essentially the same motor, no issues. Buy whatever wires you want. I recommend getting the lifetime warranty ones, and swapping them out every couple hundred hours.

For those with the newer style flat cap/rotor (07 or 08 i think, at least 08+), order wires for a 97 Suburban with the 5.7L.

FYI, you can order cap/rotor the same way at kragen. No difference on the marine parts.

Only major items that HAVE to be marine rated are starters and alternators, due to the ability to spark.

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FYI, you can order cap/rotor the same way at kragen. No difference on the marine parts.

Only major items that HAVE to be marine rated are starters and alternators, due to the ability to spark.

LOL, my OEM distro cap had "silver" (steel?) contacts in the distro cap and rotor, but the marine one I replaced it with from skidim.com had brass contacts. So what you say is sorta true, I think. The marine parts ARE different, but Malibu/Indmar apparently didn't see a need to use them.

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FYI, you can order cap/rotor the same way at kragen. No difference on the marine parts.

Only major items that HAVE to be marine rated are starters and alternators, due to the ability to spark.

WRONG!

A marine cap and rotor will have all brass contacts.

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WRONG!

A marine cap and rotor will have all brass contacts.

I stand corrected. But as far as i have been able to research, the marine cap doesn't present a safety hazard.

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There is a difference between auto and marine but on some parts I wonder why :whistle: I found out a while back the difference between a marine carb and auto is that they spray a clear coat on the outside so it doesn't corrode and they charge 50% more for that :crazy:

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Yeah, true. But why did Malibu/Indmar spec non-marine components, cuz my oem cap and rotor definitely weren't brass.

I don't know. Heck, the cap and rotor I bought from ski dim was the same "silver" steel. Not until I bought a cap and rotor from Bake's did I get the brass contacts.

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There is a difference between auto and marine but on some parts I wonder why :whistle: I found out a while back the difference between a marine carb and auto is that they spray a clear coat on the outside so it doesn't corrode and they charge 50% more for that :crazy:

Not true. Among other things, marine carbs have a system to make sure no gas escapes from the carb in the event the float valve jams open and fuel starts spewing out the overflow on the reservoir. Depending on the carb, sometimes other vents and overflows are handled differently.

The older boats that have mechanical fuel pumps (usually if you have a carb) vent the pump to a safe place into the manifold or carb in case the diaphragm leaks. I can't see any other difference and I've saved more than one weekend (and half the price) by tapping that vent hole for a 1/8" hose barb on an automotive pump.

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