Ski Pylon bearings seized

[asnowman]

I have a problem I can't seem to find the answer for on here yet, hoping someone has a solution for me.

The needle bearings on my ski pylon swivel head have been rusted solidly in place. I tried soaking them in brake cleaner and carb cleaner, hoping it was just dried up grease that needed to be cleaned out. Unfortunately, it's not old grease though. Thankfully the bearings were put in so that the part number was facing down, and it was easy to read, so I ordered new ones.

The problem is how the heck do you get the old bearings out without damaging the swivel head?

Any advice or special tool I need would be terrific.

Thanks in advance.

[Pistol Pete]

Did you get the nut off already? So that all you're looking at is the stud in the middle?

[asnowman]

Did you get the nut off already? So that all you're looking at is the stud in the middle?

Yeah I got the swivel head off last fall, and soaked it in carb cleaner for about 5 months, while it was snow ski season, and still couldn't get the bearings clean, so I tried soaking it brake cleaner for the last few weeks, still not able to clean it. I tried using an awl to clean out between the bearings, and found out that they were rusted, not just gummed with old grease. So I've resolved to just replace the bearings themselves, but can't figure out how to get the old bearings out.

The part number for the bearings is Torrignton B-1212 just in case anyone needs that too. They cost about 7 bucks each, and you need 2, if you can get out the old ones.

[Pistol Pete]

So, you're saying you have the entire swivel head off of the pylon?

Can you take some pics?

[tvano]

Yeah I got the swivel head off last fall, and soaked it in carb cleaner for about 5 months, while it was snow ski season, and still couldn't get the bearings clean, so I tried soaking it brake cleaner for the last few weeks, still not able to clean it. I tried using an awl to clean out between the bearings, and found out that they were rusted, not just gummed with old grease. So I've resolved to just replace the bearings themselves, but can't figure out how to get the old bearings out.

The part number for the bearings is Torrignton B-1212 just in case anyone needs that too. They cost about 7 bucks each, and you need 2, if you can get out the old ones.

iirc these bearings are press fit.

you will have to use a puller or cobble something to force the bearings loose.

[Pistol Pete]

If they're really rusted, you probably won't get them out.

Otherwise, you might try an inside bearing puller.

Might be able to take the spool to a motorcycle repair shop that might have one of these bearing pullers.

They're used to take the wheel bearings out of the front wheels on sport bikes such as Ducatis.

[asnowman]

Thanks guys, I'll try getting ot the local bike shop tomorrow and if that doesn't work, guess it'll be a good excuse to buy another tool for the boat box.

[asnowman]

Ok just to give you an update in case anyone else runs into the same issue. I took the swivel head to a couple different bike shops, we tried using an inside bearing puller, that did not get the bearings our. We tried a wedged puller on a slide hammer, and that didn't get them out either. So i ran over to my auto mechanic, where one of the guys is a whiz with a welder. He suggested that we weld a bead around the inside of the bearing, that should give us something to pry against, pull the bearing a little tighter to itself, and heat up and expand the aluminum just enough to get it out. About 10 minutes later, he had both bearings out without doing any damage to the swivel head. So now I just need to go pick up the bearings I ordered from NAPA (part# B1212) and press them into place. Should be good as new this afternoon.

[Killer]

how do you get the plastic piece on top of the pylon off, and is the bearing servicable (greese)?

dont want this happenning to my boat

[Lance B. Johnson]

Ok just to give you an update in case anyone else runs into the same issue. I took the swivel head to a couple different bike shops, we tried using an inside bearing puller, that did not get the bearings our. We tried a wedged puller on a slide hammer, and that didn't get them out either. So i ran over to my auto mechanic, where one of the guys is a whiz with a welder. He suggested that we weld a bead around the inside of the bearing, that should give us something to pry against, pull the bearing a little tighter to itself, and heat up and expand the aluminum just enough to get it out. About 10 minutes later, he had both bearings out without doing any damage to the swivel head. So now I just need to go pick up the bearings I ordered from NAPA (part# B1212) and press them into place. Should be good as new this afternoon.

Good to hear. I frequently use this technique on Subaru wheel bearings (common failure)it works soooo well. the outer race literally falls out.

[tvano]

does pb blaster help in these situations? (i know, kind of late to the party but i just thought of it).

that stuff is magic but you are dealing with serious corrosion due to dissimilar metals.

[River Rat]

how do you get the plastic piece on top of the pylon off, and is the bearing servicable (greese)?

dont want this happenning to my boat

The plastic cap will come off--use a sharp knife to pry it up at the edge. Go slow so you won't nick the plastic.

[asnowman]

Killer - As statred above be patient when trying to get the plastic cap off, i used a razor blade and pried upwards with the blade, not the edge. It takes longer, but the cap is not all scratched and dinged.

TVANO - We tried all manner of things like PB Blasterw, including that, and nothing helped.

The bearings can and should be lubed, especially if your cover rests on the pylon like mine does. There is a terrific cut-away pic of the swivel head in the topic linked below, provided by doughickey back in 2008, but once you pull off the swivel head, just work some good lightweight marine grease in there and it should stay lubed and spinning free. I know I'll be doing this as part of my winterization service checklist from now on.

Adam

[Deke]

The bearings can and should be lubed, especially if your cover rests on the pylon like mine does...

Adam

Why does the cover resting on pylon affect this? Mine is starting to become stiff so I guess I should get at it.

Edited June 11, 2010 by Deke

[asnowman]

Why does the cover resting on pylon affect this? Mine is starting to become stiff so I guess I should get at it.

unless you have a plastic cover, when it gets wet (and i'm assuming of course that your boat gets rained on in the summer like ours does) where ever the cover touches a surface below it, water will weep through. May not be much most of the time, but we have had crazy wet cold summers, with the boat tied top the dock, covered, waiting for a rainstorm to pass, hopefully. Even that little bit of moisture will eventually work its way around and under the plastic cap and down to the bearings. Probably not much of an issue for the guys in So Cal and AZ, but if you know how to do it, it should take about 15 minutes a year.

If its already getting stiff, you may want to work a bunch of brake cleaner into the bearings before packing them with grease.

Good luck!

[l98ycar]

This is an older post but I thought I would add my experience as well. My bearings were siezed/rusted as well. I was able to remove them fairly easily by using a nut and bolt to seal the through hole (the head of the bolt goes down below the bearings), filling the cavity around the bearings with grease, inserting a 3/4" punch and pounding on it with a hammer, the punch forces the grease down and pushes the bearings out. I have used the same method for removing crankshaft pilot bearings on cars with manual transmissions. The punch needs to be a good fit in the bearing, you might be able to use a 3/4" fine thread bolt as well.

For everyone else - make sure to lubricate the bearings at least once a year!

[Deke]

This is an older post but I thought I would add my experience as well. My bearings were siezed/rusted as well. I was able to remove them fairly easily by using a nut and bolt to seal the through hole (the head of the bolt goes down below the bearings), filling the cavity around the bearings with grease, inserting a 3/4" punch and pounding on it with a hammer, the punch forces the grease down and pushes the bearings out. I have used the same method for removing crankshaft pilot bearings on cars with manual transmissions. The punch needs to be a good fit in the bearing, you might be able to use a 3/4" fine thread bolt as well.

For everyone else - make sure to lubricate the bearings at least once a year!

I can't picture how you did this. Could you try to describe the bolt thing a different way?

[l98ycar]

I can't picture how you did this. Could you try to describe the bolt thing a different way?

The bolt goes through the existing hole in aluminum top of the pylon where it is bolted to the pylon normally and nutted on the outside (where the nut would normally be) the head of this bolt should be in the bottom of the hole where the bearings are. This nut and bolt are a plug that keeps the grease from coming out through the hole. Once this bolt is installed, fill the cavity containing the bearings with heavy grease and use the 3/4" punch (or a 3/4" fine thread bolt as a punch) to force the grease behind the bearings and push the bearings out - you will need to hit the punch with a hammer to generate enough hydraulic pressure behind the bearings to push them out - just keep pounding until they are removed.

If this still is not clear, I will try to post some pictures but it will not be until the weekend.

[Slayer]

The bolt goes through the existing hole in aluminum top of the pylon where it is bolted to the pylon normally and nutted on the outside (where the nut would normally be) the head of this bolt should be in the bottom of the hole where the bearings are. This nut and bolt are a plug that keeps the grease from coming out through the hole. Once this bolt is installed, fill the cavity containing the bearings with heavy grease and use the 3/4" punch (or a 3/4" fine thread bolt as a punch) to force the grease behind the bearings and push the bearings out - you will need to hit the punch with a hammer to generate enough hydraulic pressure behind the bearings to push them out - just keep pounding until they are removed.

If this still is not clear, I will try to post some pictures but it will not be until the weekend.

I would be interested in some pics if you have some.