Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
board brained

trailer lights

Recommended Posts

board brained

have an extreme trailer, led lights. left side is constantly bright, like the brakes are on and the signal does not work. Checked the truck and it is good.

any suggestions or do I just have to start working my way down the trailer......never seen a light on bright constantly....does this mean a bad ground?

any help appreciated

and BTW we are heading out on first camping trip mid next week Cry.gif

Share this post


Link to post
MalibuTime

have an extreme trailer, led lights. left side is constantly bright, like the brakes are on and the signal does not work. Checked the truck and it is good.

any suggestions or do I just have to start working my way down the trailer......never seen a light on bright constantly....does this mean a bad ground?

any help appreciated

and BTW we are heading out on first camping trip mid next week Cry.gif

First, I would check to see if the brightness actually changes when you have the lights on and hit the brakes, or the turn signal. If it does, then maybe you just have really bright LEDs on that side. If not, then yes, follow the wires and look for worn spots. If you have a folding tongue, that is a really good spot to start looking for issues with wires.

Share this post


Link to post
board brained

First, I would check to see if the brightness actually changes when you have the lights on and hit the brakes, or the turn signal. If it does, then maybe you just have really bright LEDs on that side. If not, then yes, follow the wires and look for worn spots. If you have a folding tongue, that is a really good spot to start looking for issues with wires.

yep did that last night, no change int he light witht he signal on or the brakes......will be running down the wires thsi morning starting at the folding tongue

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Pistol Pete

First thing I'd do is access the back of the light and probe the 3 wire connector going to the lamp.

1 wire should go hot with the parking lights on.

1 other wire should go hot with the turn sig. on or brake on.

3rd wire should be ground.

For comparison sake, you could compare the faulty light's wires to the good light.

Share this post


Link to post
Sixball

I am going with a bad ground.

Share this post


Link to post
board brained

I am going with a bad ground.

so I got it fixed, lengthy process. I tested the truck first to verify it was working correctly - it was. then moved to the trailer pulling out rear light to check and clean connector - no change. tested the turn signal and the running lights and they worked correctly til I turned ont he truck running lights then the signal went permanent hot. I cleaned and checked the female plug - no change. looked for rubs in the kneck...nothing

starting to think it is a short in the running light wire in the frame somewhere, getting ready to pull a new wire throught he frame when I pulled the front fender running light and noticed some rust bleeding out on the factory connection / seal. opened it up, cleaned it, re sealed it and BAM.....lights fixed.......

so I guess this is catagorized as a short....

and there went 4 hours on a sunny Saturday............

Share this post


Link to post
DONTW8

" so I guess this is catagorized as a short.... "

For clarification: You did not have a short.

A short is when you cross a positive wire with the negative or a ground. In cars/trailers the negative and ground are electrically the same. When you have a short you generally blow a fuse.

An "OPEN" is when you have a break in the positive wire (generally) or negative wire or ground wire. The fuse protecting that wire will not be blown. Only the positive side is fused. Grounds are never fused.

What you had was a partial "OPEN" caused by some of the wire strands compromised in the connection due to corrosion / abrasion and it could be caused siimilarly if you had a wire that had been replaced by a wire having half of it's strands . Say using an 18 guage wire to repair a 14 guage wire.

Edited by DONTW8

Share this post


Link to post
board brained

" so I guess this is catagorized as a short.... "

For clarification: You did not have a short.

A short is when you cross a positive wire with the negative or a ground. In cars/trailers the negative and ground are electrically the same. When you have a short you generally blow a fuse.

An "OPEN" is when you have a break in the positive wire (generally) or negative wire or ground wire. The fuse protecting that wire will not be blown. Only the positive side is fused. Grounds are never fused.

What you had was a partial "OPEN" caused by some of the wire strands compromised in the connection due to corrosion / abrasion and it could be caused siimilarly if you had a wire that had been replaced by a wire having half of it's strands . Say using an 18 guage wire to repair a 14 guage wire.

got it...I think and please do not tell my grandfather who was an electritian.....he would be so embarrased Blush.gif

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...