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Wake N Bake

Oil change on 06 vride

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Wake N Bake

Hi, I am just about to put my v-ride in the water but I wanted to perform a oil change first. Can anyone direct me on how this is done??

Thanks!!!

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85 Barefoot

Have you ever changed oil in a car?

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srab

There are a couple of different ways to do it. But, it's better, easier, faster

if you can run the engine up to operating temperature before you start.

Rather than a drain plug on the oil pan, like you'd find on your car, there is

a hose fitting screwed into the oil pan. The hose is maybe 2 1/2 to 3 feet long

(I'm guessing here) and fashioned with a brass plug fitting on the very end. It

is attached to a giant paper-clip-looking fastener clipped on the front port-side

of my v-drive, roughly just beneath the front edge of the exhaust manifold on the

port-side.

You disconnect the hose from the fastener. Then, you can either a) drop the hose

through one of the drain plug through-hull fittings, where you then unscrew the

brass plug and let it drain by gravity into whatever you want to collect the oil;

or b) run the tubing from a pump-type oil-collection device into the hose a couple of

feet, after, of course, again removing the brass plug at the end, and pump two or

three times to establish a vacuum that will suck out the oil (you need to,

periodically, give another pump or two to the handle of the collection device,

and keep occasionally pumping until you're only sucking air).

Alternatively, c) using a pump-type oil-collection device, you can remove the oil

dip-stick and run an appropriately-sized tube down the channel of the dip-stick.

Again, you will pump the handle several times to establish suction, and an occasional

additional pump from time to time, and let it do it's thing.

Once all the oil has been drained from the pan, reconnect the brass plug, or re-insert

the dip-stick. Then, it's time to replace the oil filter. This can be a messy process,

especially the first time. Put some rags underneath in the bilge to start with. It's

probably best to use a large zip-lock bag around the filter, after first loosening it,

and slowly unscrew the filter. Oil will begin to leak around the mouth of the filter

as you unscrew it, so the zip-lock bag is intended to catch the over-spill. Once it

is completely unscrewed, let the oil filter fall into the bag and zip it shut.

Next, you just lubricate the o-ring seal of the new filter with a bit of oil and screw

the new filter into place. Add oil (via the valve cover fill port). Check the level. Restart the engine. Re-check

the oil level and add as necessary so the dip-stick shows the appropriate level.

Done!

Of the choices of extraction above, I prefer b). Takes me about 15 minutes. Option c)

carries a caution: I've read that it is possible to get the extractor hose stuck when

inserting it down the dip-stick channel, and the tip can be [and has been] sheered off

with efforts at removal.

Edited by srab

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Bill_AirJunky

Just like in your car/truck. A couple of tips I use.....

- Drain the oil using an oil change pumps. You can do it from the oil dipstick tube. Or even push the pump tube up inside the engine oil pan drain hose. Then just suck all the oil out.

- Use a big zip lock freezer bag for the oil filter. After all the oil is drained, unscrew the filter slightly, just so it's lose but not leaking oil yet. Then put the freezer bag over the filter, unscrew the filter all the way, carefully lower it into the bag & zip it up (it'll be leaking oil, hopefully into the bag & slicker than he11). Then remove the bag, filter & all the oil from the engine compartment. The first time is a mess. But after you've done it a couple times you'll be able to do this without making a mess at all.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky

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Wake N Bake

Thanks alot!!! is there oil that you would reccomend?? And how many quarts?? also the ziplock bag is a great idea!!

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srab

Thanks alot!!! is there oil that you would reccomend?? And how many quarts?? also the ziplock bag is a great idea!!

Any 15w-40 heavy duty oil rated for diesel [or marine] will do. It's typically easier to find

suitable diesel oil (available at any auto parts store, Wal-mart, etc.) than actual marine oil.

Cheaper, too. Look for Rotella, Delo, or even Pennzoil.

You probably need to get 6 quarts. It won't take that much, but it's a good idea to have a quart

or so on board just in case. Don't forget your filter while you're at the store. You can cross-

reference for a better filter (the recommended Pennzoil filter doesn't get high marks). I typically

buy Mobil-1.

Another tip on the zip-lock bag: roll down the opening edge several turns before slipping it over

the filter. This helps keep the edges tented over the sides of the filter. Otherwise, the floppy

un-folded edge will fall against the side of the filter and oil will trickle down the outside

of the bag. This makes everything more slippery and sloppy. Have some paper towels or even some

Handi-Wipes readily available.

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85 Barefoot

I use the bottom half of a 2 liter bottle...put rags underneath filter before you start and that further avoids "slicking" the bilge

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Bill_AirJunky

Like Srab said, get 6 qts, just in case. I usually get my oil & filter at Napa, which is made by Valvoline & Wix..... those who know, right :rofl:

But I get a 5 qt container, plus a 1 qt bottle. The 5er goes in the engine & the single in the toolbox. Then the old oil goes back in the 5 qt container which can be dropped off at the recycle place easy.

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REW

pet training pads (walmart pet department) are great for keeping the blidge clean, just lay one down before you start and pick it up when done. works great and real cheep, but you will still need the freezer bags.

REW

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Lance B. Johnson

pet training pads (walmart pet department) are great for keeping the blidge clean, just lay one down before you start and pick it up when done. works great and real cheep, but you will still need the freezer bags.

REW

Now that is a great idea I have not heard yet. Good one!

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