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1st ride of season Gauges dead


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I got the boat out for the 1st time - water was awesome and boat ran great but all the gauges are dead, I have an 02 WS23xti, the perfect pass which is part of tach gauge still works fine, and depth guage is fine but tach, speedo, oil, water temp, fuel and voltage are all completely dead. I did a search and compiled this checklist but I have a couple questions.

Gauges not working checklist:

  1. Loose wires under dash - grounds etc
  2. fuses - what fuse could it be and where are they located?
  3. emergency kill switch loose
  4. Cannon Plug - do I have one of these on my boat? I didn't get a chance to look for it yet.
  5. MMDC - what is this? - is it a digital display? do I have this?

Also is there anything else I should check?

Thanks in advance for all the help.

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I got the boat out for the 1st time - water was awesome and boat ran great but all the gauges are dead, I have an 02 WS23xti, the perfect pass which is part of tach gauge still works fine, and depth guage is fine but tach, speedo, oil, water temp, fuel and voltage are all completely dead. I did a search and compiled this checklist but I have a couple questions.

Gauges not working checklist:

  1. Loose wires under dash - grounds etc
  2. fuses - what fuse could it be and where are they located?
  3. emergency kill switch loose
  4. Cannon Plug - do I have one of these on my boat? I didn't get a chance to look for it yet.
  5. MMDC - what is this? - is it a digital display? do I have this?

Also is there anything else I should check?

Thanks in advance for all the help.

Don't know if this will help but my fuses are actually breakers located under the dash, just press to reset. Good luck.

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I had the same thing happen on my '01 last year. It turned out to be a fuse. There are two fused lines under the dash that are involved with the whole instrument panel / MMDC thing. They are both in in-line fuse holders and are like the old glass automotive-type fuses. I can't remember what amperage but they are small.

Find them, replace them and maybe that will solve your problem as well.

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I got the boat out for the 1st time - water was awesome and boat ran great but all the gauges are dead, I have an 02 WS23xti, the perfect pass which is part of tach gauge still works fine, and depth guage is fine but tach, speedo, oil, water temp, fuel and voltage are all completely dead. I did a search and compiled this checklist but I have a couple questions.

Gauges not working checklist:

  1. Loose wires under dash - grounds etc
  2. fuses - what fuse could it be and where are they located?
  3. emergency kill switch loose
  4. Cannon Plug - do I have one of these on my boat? I didn't get a chance to look for it yet.
  5. MMDC - what is this? - is it a digital display? do I have this?

Also is there anything else I should check?

Thanks in advance for all the help.

I had the exact same thing happen in my old Sunsetter. It was the MMDC, you can find them on the Bakes website. But they're not cheap

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Could be #1, #2, #5.

Did the gauge needles shake at all during key-on? If they did shake, could be #4 too.

Check the power & ground to the MDC & make sure they're good. Use the troubleshooting guide to find which pins to check.

Red wire = power Make sure you have +12.

Black wire = ground - Make sure it is continuous with ground bar.

Purple = switched power Make sure you have +12V with key on.

You may want to try disconnecting you lanyard too. It seems to cut power to MDC in a different way than just turning off the switch.

Lt.Dan already mentioned the fuses on the red/purple wires.

Once you know you have power & switched power, you can check the resistance on one/some of the sender wires - Fuel would be good - or temp. You should have a circuit to ground.

If all those fail - it's likely the MDC.

Let us know what you find.

Edit: fix link

Edited by wienrdog
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Could be #1, #2, #5.

Did the gauge needles shake at all during key-on? If they did shake, could be #4 too.

Check the power & ground to the MDC & make sure they're good. Use the troubleshooting guide to find which pins to check.

Red wire = power Make sure you have +12.

Black wire = ground - Make sure it is continuous with ground bar.

Purple = switched power Make sure you have +12V with key on.

You may want to try disconnecting you lanyard too. It seems to cut power to MDC in a different way than just turning off the switch.

Lt.Dan already mentioned the fuses on the red/purple wires.

Once you know you have power & switched power, you can check the resistance on one/some of the sender wires - Fuel would be good - or temp. You should have a circuit to ground.

If all those fail - it's like the MDC.

Let us know what you find.

ok got a chance to try and troubleshoot this morning.

Gauges do not shake at all - they don't move at all when key is on - the MDC box says Medallion MDC 1600

I have 2 inline fuses coming from the MDC:

White wire w/fuse has 12v at all times

Purple wire w/fuse has no voltage at anytime - key on,off, or accessory

Black wire - can't find any black wires coming from MDC.

So if the purple wire should have 12v when key is on, if I make a jumper wire and connect to purple to say the stereo accessory wire then gauges should power up with key on? And its just that wire somewhere? Does that make sense?

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Sounds about right. Surprised about the white wire instead of red or orange/green for power. As long as it's in the right pin, the color difference is not a problem.

Since only the always on & ignition feed should be the only fused wires, you should have the correct wires. (The purple wire should be going into the connector right next to the white wire.)

The ground wire should be black & two pins away from the ignition feed along the same edge of the connector.

I fixed the link to the post above with the wiring diagrams & troubleshooting info. (Note that either figure 2 or figure 3 there is wrong in the location of 1A - fig 2 shows 1A by the 2 tabs, the other shows it by the one tab section of the connector).

If you do jumper, why not just jumper to the white wire that's +12v all the time - or straight to the I terminal of the ignition switch? (It should be the middle terminal of the three terminals that are close together - with purple wires attached).

That way you don't worry about overloading the stereo accessory wire or having another issue there. Its' not a bad idea to fuse the jumper just to be safe.

If straight to the +12V, you should see the gauges initialize, but not read anything unless you also have the key on.

Hopefully you checked the fuse in the purple wire while you were there.

Let me know if you want a second set of eyes... You aren't that far away...

Edited by wienrdog
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Have the same issue with my "01 WakeSetter, what a drag. The fuses were .75 amp and looked good. Just had some work on my stereo and though they might have shorted the computer. If so, I'll be dropping the $245 on a new one and probably a new guage cluster, since my lense is cracking.

Good luck!

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Have the same issue with my "01 WakeSetter, what a drag. The fuses were .75 amp and looked good. Just had some work on my stereo and though they might have shorted the computer. If so, I'll be dropping the $245 on a new one and probably a new guage cluster, since my lense is cracking.

Good luck!

My lenses are also cracking - let me know if you find a good price on the gauges.

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Have the same issue with my "01 WakeSetter, what a drag. The fuses were .75 amp and looked good. Just had some work on my stereo and though they might have shorted the computer. If so, I'll be dropping the $245 on a new one and probably a new guage cluster, since my lense is cracking.

Good luck!

The purple line fuse is .75amp. The red wire one is 3 amp. Just try replacing them with new ones and see what you get.

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  • 2 years later...

Is the fuse .75 or 7.5 amp?

Also, are these closer to the module end of the wire or closer to the display? Reason for asking is I have a 12" sub right beside module and so extremely difficult to track wires around the box?

Thanks

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Found the fuses and figured out sizes, but still my display is not coming on.

So far, I have checked all the wires and made sure they are connected and put diode grease on the ones to the box. I don't have a volt meter so trying to do the best I can.

Any suggestions? I hear the cable tightening when I turn the key on, but the display never even lights up. I worked last time I was out but the water was really rough going back to the ramp and even took 1the roller over the bow so I just figured something came loose.

I have the Perfect Pass Digital Pro (MDC 1600), I think its a 2001 model based on what I can read of the serial # for my 01 SSLXI.

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