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Wakesetter Oil change issue ??


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Ok, I bought this 2000 Malibu Wakesetter escape used. The owners manual doesn't give specifics on changing the oil. I located a rubber line connected to the drain plug at the bottom of the pan. Cool, I ran the hose out the rear boat drain plug, ensuring I kept the line flat along the bottom of the boat. I warmed up the engine on a water hose,stopped the engine, then I pulled the brass plug out of the end of the hose. The oil hardly trickles out, very slow! Is there another valve or connector that needs to be opened to allow oil to drain from the pan via the hose? Any suggestions? help!

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It drains very slow,,,And not much you can do but watch it and have a Beer..

agreed.

some members here use a suction device that draws the oil out way quicker. I use one of those cheap pump things that fits in a cordless drill.

here is a topic about oil changes:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23625-where-do-you-drain-your-oil-from/page__p__343217__fromsearch__1entry343217

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agreed.

some members here use a suction device that draws the oil out way quicker. I use one of those cheap pump things that fits in a cordless drill.

here is a topic about oil changes:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23625-where-do-you-drain-your-oil-from/page__p__343217__fromsearch__1entry343217

I don't know guys, last time I changed my oil the majority poured out in 2-3 minutes and then I'll let it drip for another 15 minutes or so. If you don't warm it up enough you can let it drain over night.

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I gennerally start draining then finish after lunch or waxing the Bu or some other project, It takes a while. straight off the lake may help it drain a bit faster but still give it time it will all come out, over night if you can is good as well.

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The first time I change the oil on the VLX it trickled out (engine at 160 deg). I looked closely at the hose where it attaches to the oil pan and found that it was kinked. After straightening out the kink it flowed well. The hose just wants to kink there.

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same thing with mine, and checked no kinks. literally would have taken almost a week, 12 hrs for 1/2 liter. i stuck a cheap syphon hose onto the drain hose and pumped it out, it flowed really nice, and got it all syphoned by pumping the syphon in 5 minutes.

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I'm fix'in to change my oil next week also. For a DD, should the boat be level or bow up/down?

Level.

FWIW,

I let my oil dribble out for a week, I'm not kidding. I want it ALL out.

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Ok, I guess I'm the one with a problem since I can drain my oil in 20 minutes or so with no pumps. :crazy:

You're the first person I've ever heard say that. Are you sure you're using the correct weight oil?

If so, you better bring the boat in to the dealer to have them look into that.

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You're the first person I've ever heard say that. Are you sure you're using the correct weight oil?

If so, you better bring the boat in to the dealer to have them look into that.

I just drained the oil in my Malibu... last fall, I took the plug off the end of the rubber tube and it would not drain at all. Bought a plastic pump that is driven by a drill. Went to Lowes and got the fittings and a clear hose for the other end of the pump and turned the drill on. No oil. Sucked on the end of the clear tube until the oil started to drain, then the drill pump worked great. Total cost was probably under $15 or $20... and it is so easy, there is no reason to not do it yourself. Now, I got to change the filter... will let you know how that goes. Also, just changed the impeller after 1.5 seasons... one vain was missing. The impellers are so cheap and easy to change, I will do this every year. Old oil or impellers is not the way to save money.

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I just drained the oil in my Malibu... last fall, I took the plug off the end of the rubber tube and it would not drain at all. Bought a plastic pump that is driven by a drill. Went to Lowes and got the fittings and a clear hose for the other end of the pump and turned the drill on. No oil. Sucked on the end of the clear tube until the oil started to drain, then the drill pump worked great. Total cost was probably under $15 or $20... and it is so easy, there is no reason to not do it yourself. Now, I got to change the filter... will let you know how that goes. Also, just changed the impeller after 1.5 seasons... one vain was missing. The impellers are so cheap and easy to change, I will do this every year. Old oil or impellers is not the way to save money.

a tip on using the plastic drill pump thing is to use max rpm's until the oil starts to flow. using this pump drill allows you to change the oil without crawling under the boat.

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a tip on using the plastic drill pump thing is to use max rpm's until the oil starts to flow. using this pump drill allows you to change the oil without crawling under the boat.

Need some advise... have a hammerhead 383 with the oil filter under the engine. I tried using an oil filter wrench that is a steel band and a handle that tightens up when turned... can't seem to get the wrench on the filter. Any special tools to get the filter off... what about a "cap" that fits under the filter then a ratchet? Got the oil out and the boat ready to run but getting the filter off is a real PITA.

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Need some advise... have a hammerhead 383 with the oil filter under the engine. I tried using an oil filter wrench that is a steel band and a handle that tightens up when turned... can't seem to get the wrench on the filter. Any special tools to get the filter off... what about a "cap" that fits under the filter then a ratchet? Got the oil out and the boat ready to run but getting the filter off is a real PITA.

just found a oil filter "plier" that I think will work. If it does, I will post a picture...

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Best bet for getting the filter off is to use the oil filter straps that are rubber as opposed to the steel bands. Auto Zone or O'Reilly will have them.

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Need some advise... have a hammerhead 383 with the oil filter under the engine. I tried using an oil filter wrench that is a steel band and a handle that tightens up when turned... can't seem to get the wrench on the filter. Any special tools to get the filter off... what about a "cap" that fits under the filter then a ratchet? Got the oil out and the boat ready to run but getting the filter off is a real PITA.

That is what I use on mine, putting the cap wrench on first and then attaching your socket wrench to it makes it easier. The next time I change the oil I'm installing an oil filter relocation kit on my boat. Way more difficult than it needs to be changing the oil on the HH.

The Tennessee plant has been putting oil filter relocation kits on boats for a long time. Since all or most of the boats are being built there now the new boats coming out should all have them?

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You're the first person I've ever heard say that. Are you sure you're using the correct weight oil?

If so, you better bring the boat in to the dealer to have them look into that.

Rotella 15w40. I'll have to shoot a short video next time to prove it :biggrin:

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Nate, you must be draining the trans or something..... :rofl:

Mine takes hours to drain too. The last time around I used the suction pump to draw most of the oil thru the dipstick tube. Then stuck the pump tube inside the engine drain tube & siphoned the last bit of oil out the bottom. Took me about 20 minutes to get it all drained.

I have a giant pair of channel lock pliers I use to get the oil filter off. Obviously I tend to scratch & dent it up a bit as it's coming off. But it comes off.

30 minute oil change. Engine gets some new oil. I get some new beer. :rockon:

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Thanks guys! I did warm it up, and I did run a wire up the hose to ensure it wasnt clogged. I left it open overnight and got all 5 quarts out by morning. Never realized it could be so slow. Thanks for the input!

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Just did the first oil change on my 97 sunsetter and had the same issue. I was so slow at first I too wondered if there wasnt a valve or something I had to open. After a couple of minutes though it stared draining steadily and perhaps fifteen minutes later the flow stopped and we had about five quarts in the bucket.

My theory is that even after warming up the engine, the oil in the drain tube, being out of the loop as it were from the the rest of the oil circulating around the block, doesnt get quite as hot and therefore flows slower when draining? It was a cool morning here when I did the change and I'm thinking maybe it just took a few minutes for the thicker stuff in the tube to move through allowing the hotter oil upstream to then gush out.

The only other thing I did was take both oil filler caps off thinking maybe that would release any kind of vacuum that would slow the draining

process, but I've changed oil in cars plenty of times and never had to do that, dunno.

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Just did the first oil change on my 97 sunsetter and had the same issue. I was so slow at first I too wondered if there wasnt a valve or something I had to open. After a couple of minutes though it stared draining steadily and perhaps fifteen minutes later the flow stopped and we had about five quarts in the bucket.

My theory is that even after warming up the engine, the oil in the drain tube, being out of the loop as it were from the the rest of the oil circulating around the block, doesnt get quite as hot and therefore flows slower when draining? It was a cool morning here when I did the change and I'm thinking maybe it just took a few minutes for the thicker stuff in the tube to move through allowing the hotter oil upstream to then gush out.

The only other thing I did was take both oil filler caps off thinking maybe that would release any kind of vacuum that would slow the draining

process, but I've changed oil in cars plenty of times and never had to do that, dunno.

Glad to hear that I'm not the only one who can get all the oil drained out in about 20 minutes or so.

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