Fittings needed to adapt to ProX sacs to factory system

[Intense]

Unless you boat in a tux or something- LOL

A bit OT, but I was recently watching a wakeboarding vid where Shawn Watson was riding in a suit....and glasses. He looked like Napolean Dynamite.

[Ndawg12]

I haven't permanently secured anything yet but I did get the hoses done on the starboard side.

Ha, not sure how I did that but yes it's starboard side!!

Edited April 9, 2010 by Ndawg12

[Intense]

I haven't permanently secured anything yet but I did get the hoses done on the starboard side.

Ha, not sure how I did that but yes it's starboard side!!

Got mine put in this afternoon too! I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. We were so excited to see what the wake looked like, we went straight to the water. I can definitely say the wake looked much 'meatier'....didn't get to ride, but we will tomorrow!

I'm stoked!

[speedline]

ok got my 750 all installed , but water is draining out the drain whole when the bag is almost full. it drains on its own until the bag hits around 700 pnds. i know people say they drain out the fill line, but not mine just on the drain line. anyone else had this issue??

[Living the Dream]

For those looking for ballast hose, I have found Lowes to have hose used for outdoor fish ponds in their garden center. It is smooth on the inside and has stiffening ribs on the outside. Black color 3/4" I.D. Don't remember price or full length of coil but it was very reasonable and I have had it installed on my ballast for 3 years with no problems. Just another possibility if you don't want to wait for shipping.

I was just at Lowes and saw it for

20 feet for $19.97

[Brad B]

ok got my 750 all installed , but water is draining out the drain whole when the bag is almost full. it drains on its own until the bag hits around 700 pnds. i know people say they drain out the fill line, but not mine just on the drain line. anyone else had this issue??

Stick a wine cork in it - just remember to remove it when you want to drain.

You'll find that it won't do it all the time.

[Brad B]

A bit OT, but I was recently watching a wakeboarding vid where Shawn Watson was riding in a suit....and glasses. He looked like Napolean Dynamite.

[edo]

do you take the hard tank out ???or can you just put a sack on top of it looking at geting a 2010 ride 21

Edited May 6, 2010 by edo

[Intense]

do you take the hard tank out ???or can you just put a sack on top of it looking at geting a 2010 ride 21

I took my hard tanks out, but you could totally piggyback off the existing system.

[edo]

I took my hard tanks out, but you could totally piggyback off the existing system.

why not keep the hard tanks ?????

[shawndoggy]

why not keep the hard tanks ?????

Apples and oranges, dude. Yours are below the floor, theirs are in the storage compartment. Makes no sense to remove yours, makes lots of sense to remove theirs.

[Bobby Light]

do you take the hard tank out ???or can you just put a sack on top of it looking at geting a 2010 ride 21

Yes you can put bags right on top of the under floor tanks. A good practice is to fill the under floor hard tanks first.

[MadDogMike]

I also bought 2 brass check valves from Lowes, Not sure if this link will work right.. These will go in the fill lines to prevent the bags from draining back through the fill pump.

Why the brass check valves instead of this PVC one? (Hope that link works.)

Seems like with this PVC check valve you could just insert it inline and use hose clamps. Looks like the brass one would require two barbed fittings for each one. Has anyone used the PVC check valve?

thanks,

Mike

[Tao of Wake]

Why the brass check valves instead of this PVC one? (Hope that link works.)

Seems like with this PVC check valve you could just insert it inline and use hose clamps. Looks like the brass one would require two barbed fittings for each one. Has anyone used the PVC check valve?

thanks,

Mike

I used these PVC check valves (the "Smart" valves, fourth one down on the page; I installed 1" hose, so I used the 1" check valve). For each check valve, I also purchased two slip x barb adapters. I went with these due to the "full flow" mechanism. I wanted to restrict the flow as little as possible. I have one in the fill line and one in the drain line. I have not had any problems with auto draining out the drain line with this setup (also have a loop in the hose going from the pump to the check valve and the check valve is mounted as high up under the gunnel as I could get it). The other benefit is after the first drain of the sac, no air can enter it so it empties completely, including the air, so I don't need a vent line. The next time I fill, there is no air in the sac so it fills completely and then starts overflowing through the drain line. I shut off the fill pump and a little more water trickles out, and that's it! I am extremely happy with this setup. Previously I had a ball valve in the drain line, and I just wanted it completely automatic like the stock tanks/pumps, so I installed the check valve to see if it would break or inhibit the siphon, and it did. I tried just using the loop in the line, and I also tried an anti-siphon loop, and neither worked. It may be that I couldn't get it high enough. I really didn't want to route the drain line up the side of the boat to get it higher. I do have to be sure that if I have a lot of people in the boat that I put plenty of weight in the bow so that there isn't so much bow rise that the front of the sac is higher than the check valve as that would definitely drain a bunch of water out of the sac.

BTW, I did also try using a sprinkler valve in the line tied to the same switch as the drain pump so that it would open when I flipped the switch to drain, but there were two problems with this: (1) I couldn't find a sprinkler valve that didn't seriously restrict the flow; (2) I would have to have a vent line as there would be nowhere for the excess water to go when the sac was filled and the pump still on. I looked at a bunch of different sprinkler valves including ones that were supposedly "full flow" but they all restricted considerably. The best one restricted 35%. That was just unacceptable to me. Here is how I tested and the results.

[Ndawg12]

Why the brass check valves instead of this PVC one? (Hope that link works.)

Seems like with this PVC check valve you could just insert it inline and use hose clamps. Looks like the brass one would require two barbed fittings for each one. Has anyone used the PVC check valve?

thanks,

Mike

I tested both of them and the brass swing check was noticeably easier to open. So I used it for restriction purposes although I've never been in a real big hurry to fill the bags anyways. The extra barbed fittings are less than $1 a peice.

[MadDogMike]

I have one in the fill line and one in the drain line. ... I installed the check valve to see if it would break or inhibit the siphon, and it did.

Wow, that's surprising. I think of a check valve as preventing reverse flow, I wouldn't think a check valve would break a siphon in the same direction as it's supposed to allow flow. I guess the siphon is just not strong enough to exceed the crack pressure? I also have a problem with my center tank filling on it's own, and I was going to fix that with a vented loop / anti-siphon valve, but maybe the check valve would solve that an also prevent draining through the fill pump. Two birds with one stone!

Did you previously have problems with siphoning out through the drain pump? I didn't know that was an issue.

Also, I already have mine plumbed with vents, so now you have me re-thinking everything. Damn Malibu forum!

[MadDogMike]

I tested both of them and the brass swing check was noticeably easier to open. The extra barbed fittings are less than $1 a peice.

Oh, the brass check valves are swing type vs. spring type? I didn't catch that. For the barbed fittings, the brass ones were that cheap, or did you go with plastic?

thanks,

Mike

[Ndawg12]

Oh, the brass check valves are swing type vs. spring type? I didn't catch that. For the barbed fittings, the brass ones were that cheap, or did you go with plastic?

thanks,

Mike

Actually I went with the white plastic ones from Home Depot, now that I think about it, they were more like $2 a peice . For what ever reason all the barbed stuff from Lowe's is cheaper, looks to be higher quality, but too big, can't push the hose onto it. I ran into this problem with the 3/4" ballast hose and the 1 1/2" water inlet hose while making a fake-a-lake system.

[MadDogMike]

I used these PVC check valves (the "Smart" valves, fourth one down on the page; I installed 1" hose, so I used the 1" check valve). For each check valve, I also purchased two slip x barb adapters. I went with these due to the "full flow" mechanism.

I'm a bit confused by the description on that page. These check valves are both spring and magnetic actuated? It talks about a "magnetic version", but the only one that mentions that it has a magnet is the 2" model? So, is the one you bought a spring check valve, magnetic, or some kind of hybrid? Also, I didn't see the barb adapters there...does the same site sell them?

thanks,

Mike

[Tao of Wake]

I'm a bit confused by the description on that page. These check valves are both spring and magnetic actuated? It talks about a "magnetic version", but the only one that mentions that it has a magnet is the 2" model? So, is the one you bought a spring check valve, magnetic, or some kind of hybrid? Also, I didn't see the barb adapters there...does the same site sell them?

thanks,

Mike

I believe only the 2" have both the spring and magnet. The 1" that I bought just have the spring.

Here are the barb adapters you would need. I think you can also find these at Lowes.

[Ndawg12]

I believe only the 2" have both the spring and magnet. The 1" that I bought just have the spring.

Here are the barb adapters you would need. I think you can also find these at Lowes.

If your using factory hose, get the white barbed fittings at Home Deport, not the grey ones at Lowes. I've spent too much time dicking with these fittings to let another crew member do the same!!

[Intense]

If your using factory hose, get the white barbed fittings at Home Deport, not the grey ones at Lowes. I've spent too much time dicking with these fittings to let another crew member do the same!!

Actually, we ended up using the gray ones from Lowes. They were certainly a pain to work with. Then again, we do have a nice tight seal.

[Intense]

If your using factory hose, get the white barbed fittings at Home Deport, not the grey ones at Lowes. I've spent too much time dicking with these fittings to let another crew member do the same!!

Actually, we ended up using the gray ones from Lowes. They were certainly a pain to work with. Then again, we do have a nice tight seal.

[Ndawg12]

Actually, we ended up using the gray ones from Lowes. They were certainly a pain to work with. Then again, we do have a nice tight seal.

Were you using them on factory hoses? Did you have to heat up the hose? Did you get them pushed all the way into the hose? I split 2 pieces of hose trying to use them. I would keep your eye on them over the winter as the rubber contracts it might split. I cut off a 1" section, then cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around the fitting, the gap was nearly 1/4", I felt that was too much...

[Intense]

Were you using them on factory hoses? Did you have to heat up the hose? Did you get them pushed all the way into the hose? I split 2 pieces of hose trying to use them. I would keep your eye on them over the winter as the rubber contracts it might split. I cut off a 1" section, then cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around the fitting, the gap was nearly 1/4", I felt that was too much...

Yep, the factory hose. Believe me, there was ALOT of grunting and cussing involved. I'll def keep an eye on it over the winter and see if I need to replace anything next year.

edit: the hoses are not 'fully' on the fittings. We got two barbs on and figured that was good enough when combined with a clamp

Edited June 2, 2010 by Intense