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Fittings needed to adapt to ProX sacs to factory system


Intense

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With the upcoming ProX GB, I got to thinking what else I'll need to make this system plug-n-play. I've tried a search, but after the 4th page of results, I gave up.

I know some people have replaced the factory hard tanks with ProX bags. Can you tell me which fittings I need to make this happen?

thanks!

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I bought the quik-lok stuff from flowrite. I got 6 of these and 6 of these. I'm not sure how they will perform, I had to add a lot of thread tape to get the adapter to feel secure in the bag, however, others using these fittings have not experienced the same and say theirs fit well :unsure:

I also bought 2 brass check valves from Lowes, Not sure if this link will work right.. These will go in the fill lines to prevent the bags from draining back through the fill pump.

Uncertainties:

Not sure if I'll need to put some kind of antisiphon on the drain and/or vent.

Not sure if I'll have enough of the existing hose to make it all work.

I'm not much help yet, but once I get it all set up, I'll give an update.

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I bought the quik-lok stuff from flowrite. I got 6 of these and 6 of these. I'm not sure how they will perform, I had to add a lot of thread tape to get the adapter to feel secure in the bag, however, others using these fittings have not experienced the same and say theirs fit well :unsure:

I also bought 2 brass check valves from Lowes, Not sure if this link will work right.. These will go in the fill lines to prevent the bags from draining back through the fill pump.

Uncertainties:

Not sure if I'll need to put some kind of antisiphon on the drain and/or vent.

Not sure if I'll have enough of the existing hose to make it all work.

I'm not much help yet, but once I get it all set up, I'll give an update.

Those are what I was contemplating. That or the more expensive W730 to connect to the bag and the W738 to connect to the hoses

Do you know what the I.D. of the factory hoses to the hard tanks?

Second edit - do you think the check valves will be necessary or is that more of a more precautionary move?

Edited by Intense
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Those are what I was contemplating. That or the more expensive W730 to connect to the bag and the W738 to connect to the hoses

Do you know what the I.D. of the factory hoses to the hard tanks?

Second edit - do you think the check valves will be necessary or is that more of a more precautionary move?

ID should be 3/4".

Mine are 400lbs, I've heard people with 750's draining back so I didn't want to take the chance. I plan to loop the fill hoses on the back of the panel that has the light on it in the rear storage compartments. I'm hoping to put the check valve in the middle (top) of that loop. But I guess you could say it's precautionary.

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ID should be 3/4".

Mine are 400lbs, I've heard people with 750's draining back so I didn't want to take the chance. I plan to loop the fill hoses on the back of the panel that has the light on it in the rear storage compartments. I'm hoping to put the check valve in the middle (top) of that loop. But I guess you could say it's precautionary.

You definitely need an anti siphon or check valve on the fill line or you will be draining out the fill line. If you use the check valve there is no need for a loop on the fill line. You could substitute a shut off valve for either one.

I could be wrong but I don't think a check valve will work on the vent and drain line.... since the siphon "suction" effect will open the check valve and allow the water to flow past. You would have to use an anti siphon or a shut off valve on those lines.

Edited by cyoda44
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You definitely need an anti siphon or check valve on the fill line or you will be draining out the fill line. If you use the check valve there is no need for a loop on the fill line. You could substitute a shut off valve for either one.

I could be wrong but I don't think a check valve will work on the vent and drain line.... since the siphon "suction" effect will open the check valve and allow the water to flow past. You would have to use an anti siphon or a shut off valve on those lines.

:plus1:

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You definitely need an anti siphon or check valve on the fill line or you will be draining out the fill line. If you use the check valve there is no need for a loop on the fill line. You could substitute a shut off valve for either one.

I could be wrong but I don't think a check valve will work on the vent and drain line.... since the siphon "suction" effect will open the check valve and allow the water to flow past. You would have to use an anti siphon or a shut off valve on those lines.

So, you're post got me wondering. I don't believe the factory uses check valves (or anti-siphons) on it's tanks. Why is there a need to add this stuff for these bags...I'm just curious?

I can see the need for an anti-siphon on the fill line. But I would think the drain and vent lines would be OK without. Although, I do see water spilling out of the vent/drain when the boat is sloshing around. It never really seems like enough to worry about.

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Because the factory setup dumps water into a hard tank and displaces the air in the tank as it fills.

A sac doesn't hafta displace air cuz its squashed when its empty.

But when it fills, the surface of the water is in touch with the fill hose and lends to siphoning.

Anti-siphons provide an air bubble that breaks that and other vales actually block the flow.

Loops don't help all the time cuz the bag can collapse enough to put the fill spout in touch with the water surface in the bag and the water sliding across the thru hull makes suction and bingo - siphon effect.

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Because the factory setup dumps water into a hard tank and displaces the air in the tank as it fills.

A sac doesn't hafta displace air cuz its squashed when its empty.

But when it fills, the surface of the water is in touch with the fill hose and lends to siphoning.

Anti-siphons provide an air bubble that breaks that and other vales actually block the flow.

Loops don't help all the time cuz the bag can collapse enough to put the fill spout in touch with the water surface in the bag and the water sliding across the thru hull makes suction and bingo - siphon effect.

Intense, let me know if you think I'm hi-jacking your thread but we're kinda in the same boat here.

Are you guys saying that a loop in the fill line is worthless when using bags? What about to help eleviate autofilling as water can push passed these pumps? My center tank was doing that. Do you think it would help for that?

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Intense, let me know if you think I'm hi-jacking your thread but we're kinda in the same boat here.

Are you guys saying that a loop in the fill line is worthless when using bags? What about to help eleviate autofilling as water can push passed these pumps? My center tank was doing that. Do you think it would help for that?

Ndwag, no worries. Like you said, we're both learning here.

So, I had a chance to dig into my boat last night to try and figure out how the hard tanks are plumbed in. It seems all the fittings and such are at the 'front' of the tank. As such all the hoses are short enough to accomodate the location. Which wil be an issue with the ProX bags since one of the openings is at the back of the bag.

Also, given the location of the drain pump (on the floor, directly attached to the tank), I don't see how the water can possibly drain out of there when the bag is filled. Since the thru-hull is about a foot above it. I can maybe see that issue with the vent line since that'll be at the top, but a loop on the hose should remedy that.

Anyways, here's my plan of attack:

-The front top opening of the ProX bag will be the fill port, the bottom front of the bag is the drain port, and the rear top is the vent port.

-Since the ProX bags come with one of their quick release fittings,this one I was going to use that one for the drain. With the drain pump is attached directly to the tank/bag. I'm assuming the threads from the pirahna pump will match the ProX QR fittings, this one

-The top front and rear ports will get the flow-rite QR fittings that Ndawg linked to earlier

-Check valves in the fill hose. Possibly put anti-siphons on the drain and vent

-Get a new section of hose to extent the vent line to the back of the bag.

How does all this sound?

My only question is...where do I get reinforced hose? All I know is it's 3/4" ID

thanks!

Edited by Intense
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Ndwag, no worries. Like you said, we're both learning here.

So, I had a chance to dig into my boat last night to try and figure out how the hard tanks are plumbed in. It seems all the fittings and such are at the 'front' of the tank. As such all the hoses are short enough to accomodate the location. Which wil be an issue with the ProX bags since one of the openings is at the back of the bag.

Also, given the location of the drain pump (on the floor, directly attached to the tank), I don't see how the water can possibly drain out of there when the bag is filled. Since the thru-hull is about a foot above it. I can maybe see that issue with the vent line since that'll be at the top, but a loop on the hose should remedy that.

Anyways, here's my plan of attack:

-The front top opening of the ProX bag will be the fill port, the bottom front of the bag is the drain port, and the rear top is the vent port.

-Since the ProX bags come with one of their quick release fittings,this one I was going to use that one for the drain. With the drain pump is attached directly to the tank/bag. I'm assuming the threads from the pirahna pump will match the ProX QR fittings, this one

-The top front and rear ports will get the flow-rite QR fittings that Ndawg linked to earlier

-Check valves in the fill hose. Possibly put anti-siphons on the drain and vent

-Get a new section of hose to extent the vent line to the back of the bag.

How does all this sound?

My only question is...where do I get reinforced hose? All I know is it's 3/4" ID

thanks!

Do you think there is enough hose on the drain to bring the pump from the transom to the front of the bag (with the drain and fill ports positioned right behind the rear seatback)?

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Do you think there is enough hose on the drain to bring the pump from the transom to the front of the bag (with the drain and fill ports positioned right behind the rear seatback)?

On my boat, the hard tanks are plumbed in exactly where you're referring to, just behind the rear seatbacks. The way the ProX bags are set-up, I'll need to extent only the vent line to the rear of the bag (which, for me, will be next to the transom.)

The way the drain pump is positioned now, it's just below the thru-hull. So, it's only a foot (or so) line from the floor of the boat (where the drain pump is resting) up to the thru-hull.

I'll try to get pics when I attempt to plumb everything in later this week

Edited by Intense
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I haven't looked at it that closely yet but mine was the same way with the drain pump near the transom. Now we'll be moving it towards the seatback, just wondered if you verified there will be enough hose to do that since you've allready figured out that there's not enough for the vent.

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I looked at the existing hose later yesterday. Keep in mind, my bags are the 400lbs bags which are shorter than the 750's that I think Intense is going to use. Here's what I'm going to try and do some time this week or weekend. The fill line should be long enough. The drain line is actually going to be too long so I'll cut a foot or 2 off of that and it will become my vent line. The current vent line will connect directly to the outlet of the drain pump. The extra hose I cut off will attach to the suction side of the drain pump and the bag. Make sense?

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I haven't looked at it that closely yet but mine was the same way with the drain pump near the transom. Now we'll be moving it towards the seatback, just wondered if you verified there will be enough hose to do that since you've allready figured out that there's not enough for the vent.

I have my drain pump behind the seat back too - mainly cuz its easier to deal with if something fails.

We had a problem only once - we were using those blue waterbed fittings and one broke - removed them all after that.

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I looked at the existing hose later yesterday. Keep in mind, my bags are the 400lbs bags which are shorter than the 750's that I think Intense is going to use. Here's what I'm going to try and do some time this week or weekend. The fill line should be long enough. The drain line is actually going to be too long so I'll cut a foot or 2 off of that and it will become my vent line. The current vent line will connect directly to the outlet of the drain pump. The extra hose I cut off will attach to the suction side of the drain pump and the bag. Make sense?

Wow, you're taking a whole two feet off your current vent line?!?! That seems like alot. I think I understand what you're trying to do. Sounds similar to mine....I just need to figure out where to get more hose. I'll need a longer length for my vent line.

Also, I opted to not go with the 750s. I got the 400+ (16x16x42) bags from the ProX GB. What's funny is the website says the bags can fit 400+ lbs. The box says each bag can hold 500+ lbs. But based on my calculations, the bags can only fit 380 lbs. Regardless, they'll hold more than the hard tanks

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Ha I did the calculations too when I saw the 500 lb's on the box. I came up with around 380 lb's too.

Also, I opted to not go with the 750s. I got the 400+ (16x16x42) bags from the ProX GB. What's funny is the website says the bags can fit 400+ lbs. The box says each bag can hold 500+ lbs. But based on my calculations, the bags can only fit 380 lbs. Regardless, they'll hold more than the hard tanks

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Ha I did the calculations too when I saw the 500 lb's on the box. I came up with around 380 lb's too.

The square dementions of the sacs may come out to 400 lbs but they bulge a ton and hold more than that.

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Intense, in case you do need more hose you need this from Bakes or one of the 2 pictured here or see if North Point has something for you.

If the rain holds off I'll be hooking all of mine up tonight but I won't be able to test it.

The hose in my boat is the $1.69 stuff on the wakemakers site. i don't think I have the patience to wait for that stuff to come in.....and it's just the vent line. I might see what HD has.....

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The hose in my boat is the $1.69 stuff on the wakemakers site. i don't think I have the patience to wait for that stuff to come in.....and it's just the vent line. I might see what HD has.....

Check out the Hot Tub hose that HD has, might be your ticket. Only thing is it's white in color, at least the stuff I saw.

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The hose in my boat is the $1.69 stuff on the wakemakers site. i don't think I have the patience to wait for that stuff to come in.....and it's just the vent line. I might see what HD has.....

HD also has clear plastic tubing with string in it, could kink and/or look funny but like you said it's just a vent. I think most of the mfr use the same hose. Maybe call your closest dealer if you don't want to go all the way up to Moorseville.

Did you get your flo-rite fittings yet. How are you attaching the drain pump to the bag? I'm using a coupler and 3/4thread x 3/4 barb adapter, I think :biggrin:

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HD also has clear plastic tubing with string in it, could kink and/or look funny but like you said it's just a vent. I think most of the mfr use the same hose. Maybe call your closest dealer if you don't want to go all the way up to Moorseville.

Did you get your flo-rite fittings yet. How are you attaching the drain pump to the bag? I'm using a coupler and 3/4thread x 3/4 barb adapter, I think :biggrin:

Ndawg, I think I might know why you're getting some leaking with the flo-rite fittings. In my haste, I ordered the Fly-High threaded fittings AND the Flo-Rite fittings. So, it's easy to see them side-by-side.

In the picture below, the ProX fitting is the gray one on the left and the flo-rite is one the right. At the base of the threads of the ProX fitting, there's a little rubber o-ring. Which, as you can see, is not present on the flo-rite fitting. Simple enough fix, I went to HD and got a packet of #17 o-rings. That should do the trick and prevent any leakage. I also put 3-4 layers on plumbing tape on the flo-rite fitting threads....that should tighten things up.

IMG_0786.JPG

With any luck, I'll be hooking up my bags tomorrow....

For the drain, since I want to keep everything easily disconnectable, I'm using the female QR supplied with the bags and ordered the male side of the quick connect. I'm hoping the threads between the quick connect and the pump housing are the same....otherwise, it's back to square one.

Edited by Intense
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For those looking for ballast hose, I have found Lowes to have hose used for outdoor fish ponds in their garden center. It is smooth on the inside and has stiffening ribs on the outside. Black color 3/4" I.D. Don't remember price or full length of coil but it was very reasonable and I have had it installed on my ballast for 3 years with no problems. Just another possibility if you don't want to wait for shipping.

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just a FYI

Does it really matter if it leaks a little bit?

I mean the amount of water from your wet shorts and jacket is exponentially more than a little thread leak.

Don't sweat the small stuff - boats get real wet all the time.

Unless you boat in a tux or something- LOL

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