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Michigan boarder

Prop has some play in it

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Michigan boarder

I was looking at my prop the other day to get the numbers off of it, and when I turned it there was some play in it. It should be tight, correct? I held the shaft and the prop rotates back and forth slightly, not much but enough to clunk and it seems like any play at all is not good. How do I fix that, assuming I just remove the cotter, tighten the nut to push it up further on the tapered shaft, then reinstall the cotter? I haven't had it off for anything yet, this will be my second season owning the Bu. It's in perfect shape, was reworked by the previous owner a few years ago. The info I got off it is: DYMEX 0653C 694 13x13L, on the '94 Echelon w/ Merc 265.

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Bill_AirJunky

Might be a good idea to pull the prop off & check out the keyway & key itself.

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Michigan boarder

Might be a good idea to pull the prop off & check out the keyway & key itself.

That was my plan, just so busy with everything else right now. Assuming everything "looks" OK, though, I'd just run it up the shaft a bit further? I've got to have the boat out of our warehouse by the end of the weekend, so I was intending on checking it out (along with all the other stuff) in the next evening or two.

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MalibuTime

That was my plan, just so busy with everything else right now. Assuming everything "looks" OK, though, I'd just run it up the shaft a bit further? I've got to have the boat out of our warehouse by the end of the weekend, so I was intending on checking it out (along with all the other stuff) in the next evening or two.

Bring a spare key with you, that way you can replace it if there are any signs of wear, and be done with it. Even if it is a bit loose, it shouldn't really have any rotational play. Once engaged, the key should pretty much keep it from spinning free on the shaft at all.

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dalt1

I pull my prop every spring just to be sure it doesn't seize on the shaft. Clean re grease and torque back to 35 ft lbs. I find slight wear on the key every year but not enough to worry.(I just put a new key in for the first time in 4 seasons). That is with the prop tight. I will guess your key needs replaced from flopping around.

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jk13

MB, thanks again for getting those numbers for me. :blush:

When I took the damaged prop off, there was no play at all between the prop and the shaft. I will still put a new key and nut on mine, just to be sure. I got lucky and found a screamin deal on a reconditioned 515 fishing in the 'bay, we'll see what it looks like when it gets here today or tomorrow.

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skier92

I was looking at my prop the other day to get the numbers off of it, and when I turned it there was some play in it. It should be tight, correct? I held the shaft and the prop rotates back and forth slightly, not much but enough to clunk and it seems like any play at all is not good. How do I fix that, assuming I just remove the cotter, tighten the nut to push it up further on the tapered shaft, then reinstall the cotter? I haven't had it off for anything yet, this will be my second season owning the Bu. It's in perfect shape, was reworked by the previous owner a few years ago. The info I got off it is: DYMEX 0653C 694 13x13L, on the '94 Echelon w/ Merc 265.

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BillFooter

Check the hub of the prop. I had one that got a hairline crack in the hub and could not fit tight.

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Woodski

Make sure that when you install the prop the key does not keep the prop from properly seating on the shaft. That can cause the exact issue you are seeing. The key should be in the center of the slot front / rear. At each end of the groove, the slot becomes shallower allowing the key to basically ride up and hold the prop surface away from the shaft.

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wienrdog

I think Pete has the document on it somewhere, but you should:

Fully seat prop on he shaft without the key,

Mark the shaft at the bow side of the prop

Remove the prop & replace the key

Seat prop again

Make sure prop seats all the way to the mark.

If prop doesn't make it to the mark, sand/file the key & reseat until it does.

Put on nut and torque to 35 Ft-lbs.

To fully seat the prop, slide it on until it gives a slight clang. It should not slide/slip back off easily if it's seated right. You won't need a puller to remove the prop, but it will take a tug.

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Michigan boarder

Thanks everyone for the input, heading to the warehouse tomorrow morning to do some work on 'er. Should be a simple fix, I'll try your suggestions.

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JeffS

I have a 4x4 chunk of wood that I have bored a hole in - using a simple 1-1/4" spade bit. When I remount a prop, I put the wood on the prop, with the prop shaft in the hole that I bored, and give it a couple of good thumps with a mallet. Seats the prop on the shaft very nicely. I use a wheel puller to get it off.

For what it's worth - an awesome wheel/gear puller is only $40. As soon as you put the word "prop" or "boat" in the product title, the price more than doubles. So a prop puller is $100. Which is stupid.

Here's a link. It's a simple Craftsman gear puller. Not sure if you already have a puller, but the only reason in my experience, to be careful how far you thump it on, is that the farther on, the harder to get off. If you have a puller, thump away? Just my $.02.

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Michigan boarder

I think Pete has the document on it somewhere, but you should:

Fully seat prop on he shaft without the key,

Mark the shaft at the bow side of the prop

Remove the prop & replace the key

Seat prop again

Make sure prop seats all the way to the mark.

If prop doesn't make it to the mark, sand/file the key & reseat until it does.

Put on nut and torque to 35 Ft-lbs.

To fully seat the prop, slide it on until it gives a slight clang. It should not slide/slip back off easily if it's seated right. You won't need a puller to remove the prop, but it will take a tug.

That sounds like the way to go. Pretty much the same that was on page 11 by skier92. So that will be the route I take.

Meanwhile, changed plugs, cap, rotor, thermostat, insulated motor box, etc. etc. and last but not least...the prop. I went to bend back the cotter and it broke. It's days were numbered. Grabbed the shaft with one hand and loosened the nut with the other (& a wrench). The prop was falling off as I loosened the nut. My next step is to get a new key and follow the steps above. Any chance that the prop is damaged from the play? Or is the key a softer metal and the weak link? I'm surprised it was that loose. There was a very small clunk going from foward to reverse last summer on the water, but it was my first summer with it and I just assumed that's what it sounded like, along with the weird whine noise and other things specific to inboards. I feel stupid for not checking it.

Edited by Michigan boarder

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Michigan boarder

Also, thanks for the heads up on the gear puller Jeffs, I figured the same thing too.

And, also a good idea to check for cracks BillFooter. It appears to be OK. I'm hoping that it was just installed not quite tight enough which allowed the key to start moving and wear itself. Been too busy all week to get a key, but that's tomorro's plan. They're talking 70's by the weekend, so I'll be pulling it out of storage and finishing my list, including this.

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tvano

And, also a good idea to check for cracks BillFooter. It appears to be OK.

take a close look at the hub once it is installed, too.

hairline cracks may be hard to see.

tightening the hub onto the taper may make a crack easier to see.

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idaman

I have never needed a prop puller for my prop. Just gave it a hard jerk with my hands and came right off. Is this normal? Maybe it has been wrong for all these years. I have had to have my prop repaired a couple of times so maybe that is why.

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dalt1

Mine is never going to pull off by hand. It takes my prop puller torqued down tight and about half dozen whacks with a big hammer to body of puller to finally twang loose. I couldn't do that with a regular wheel puller.

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skier92

I have never needed a prop puller for my prop. Just gave it a hard jerk with my hands and came right off. Is this normal? Maybe it has been wrong for all these years. I have had to have my prop repaired a couple of times so maybe that is why.

I'd say that is not normal, that either you are not tightening the nut enought (35-40 ft lb) or the prop and the shaft are not mating properly (Read page 11 "Proper fit of..." @ the site below:

http://www.marinehar...unning_gear.pdf ) or as mentioned by someone previously, perhaps the hub of the prop is cracked)

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idaman

Now I am worried. I will check it tonight and see. Suppose to be hitting the water tomorrow. I know it is torqued correctly, but may not be seated all the way.

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Michigan boarder

Thanks for the advice everyone, it turns out I just had a worn key. $7 replacement, fits like a glove, all set.

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martinarcher

Sweet. I like those fixes! Rockon.gif

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idaman

Nice. At least you got me second guessing myself. :biggrin: I checked mine and it was good as well. Nice getting to board the first day with no worries.

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