Un-winterizing?

[Soon2BV]

How hard is an impeller change on a v-drive? I hear it's miserable compared to D-drives. Is there a link anywhere to how to perform one on a v-drive? And what are your thoughts on the Globe Run-dry?

Not bad if you are skinny and have long arms and fexible hands.

I recommend getting into the side compartment next to the engine and getting adjusted. A few screws and then an impeller puller to get the old one out.

There are several threads and maybe even some pictures on here.

[Chia]

un-winterize

confirm the impeller is in. back the boat into the lake and while it is still on the trailer open the engine cover; check to make sure all the drain plugs are in, start the engine and then watch for water pouring into the engine compartment.

-- no water pouring in, engine temp builds to 160 and stays there, all is good.

-- water pours in due to a loose hose clamp, turn engine off, tighten hose clamp repeat start up procedure.

-- water pours in due to multiple cracks in the block, immediately cry, take the boat home and cry some more.

[Malibuzer]

un-winterize

confirm the impeller is in. back the boat into the lake and while it is still on the trailer open the engine cover; check to make sure all the drain plugs are in, start the engine and then watch for water pouring into the engine compartment.

-- no water pouring in, engine temp builds to 160 and stays there, all is good.

-- water pours in due to a loose hose clamp, turn engine off, tighten hose clamp repeat start up procedure.

-- water pours in due to multiple cracks in the block, immediately cry, take the boat home and cry some more.

That is great advice....except for the last part. It should be interrupted by immediately cry, drink large amounts of alcohol, have someone sober take the boat home and cry some more.

[Pistol Pete]

Not bad if you are skinny and have long arms and fexible hands.

I recommend getting into the side compartment next to the engine and getting adjusted. A few screws and then an impeller puller to get the old one out.

There are several threads and maybe even some pictures on here.

Some pics. I shot last time in there. I straddle the engine and bend all the way forward on top of the motor to do this job. I don't lay on my side anymore. Tools you could need. Notice the bottle of baby shampoo. I use that as binding lube and you wanna squirt a good amount in there and crank the motor a couple times with the lanyard out to get that lube all around the impellers.

[Pistol Pete]

impeller puller properly mounted.

[Pistol Pete]

Victory=Beer:30

[A7X_LSV_23]

Just got done changing the oil/impeller in the motor on my Bu. Did it with a screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Not hard at all really. Goes it a hell of a lot better then it does coming out tho! Anyone have any good write ups on changing the oil in the Trans and V drive?? V drive oil looks good, but the trans fluid is a gray color, definitely needs replaced.

[Pistol Pete]

Easiest thing to do is suck both of those fluids out with a fluid evacuator.

Like this...

[NorCaliBu]

Easiest thing to do is suck both of those fluids out with a fluid evacuator.Like this...

Oh man, those things suck...

[rimshot]

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

[martinarcher]

Easiest thing to do is suck both of those fluids out with a fluid evacuator.

Like this...

I've got the same extractor and it works like a charm. Leaked a bit out of the box, but after a bit of silicone sealant it was good to go. Holds plenty of fluid even for our truck unlike many of the other extractors.

[A7X_LSV_23]

So where's the cheapest place to purchase one of them! :D It took me about 30 minutes and 200 pumps to extract the oil even after it was all warmed up. Freaking sucked. Or didn't suck..... So on the trans and V drive where/how would ya extract the oil? Just stick a line down the dipstick hole? Or is there an oil drain on the bottom or somethin somethin.

[martinarcher]

I got mine on Amazon...

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus

[mcbean7]

I picked one up from West Marine. I have the 5.4 quart version. It works great. I just stick a hose down the dipstick hole of the Vdrive and tranny to suck out old stuff.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/410426/377%20710/0/oil%20extractor/Secondary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=oil%20extractor&Ntk=Secondary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=oil%20extractor&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=6&subdeptNum=169&classNum=170

[dalt1]

Some pics. I shot last time in there. I straddle the engine and bend all the way forward on top of the motor to do this job. I don't lay on my side anymore. Tools you could need. Notice the bottle of baby shampoo. I use that as binding lube and you wanna squirt a good amount in there and crank the motor a couple times with the lanyard out to get that lube all around the impellers.

Pete, looks like you finally broke down and bought a real puller. I am still using my attached paint can stirs. After 3 years they haven't broke yet and still work good. Once you finally getting the impellor to budge, they slide right out. Getting that first movement sometimes is a bit of a challenge though.

[A7X_LSV_23]

I got mine on Amazon...

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus

Sweet Thanks! Just ordered one for myself! Wish someone would've posted that up before I attempted it :D

Had another question. When changing the oil with the oil drain line that would go out the drain on the boat. After it's all warmed up, should oil be flowing freely out that or will you still have to pump it out? I set it up thinking it'd flow freely out but I had to pump it up, just curious if that's normal. Not like i care anymore cause I just bought that pump but. Just curious.

Also, I HATE Pennzoil!!! I'll never run it! Has anyone tried AMSoil or Mobil 1. As well as a Mobil 1 or K&N filter that could possible give me a part number for either on a 350ci Monsoon (340hp). I noticed that Mobil 1 doesn't really have any 15w-40, but they have a 10w-40 that meets the same standards as the Pennzoil. Anyone ran this? And on the AMSOIL, they do have 15w-40 in a diesel oil. Has anyone ever ran that? I believe it was also the same spec as the manfucturer recommendation. I've ran Mobil 1 and AMSOIL In many cars including my old race car and LOVED IT! Went in clean, and came out looking the exact same as it did going in.

[Chia]

Sweet Thanks! Just ordered one for myself! Wish someone would've posted that up before I attempted it :D

Had another question. When changing the oil with the oil drain line that would go out the drain on the boat. After it's all warmed up, should oil be flowing freely out that or will you still have to pump it out? I set it up thinking it'd flow freely out but I had to pump it up, just curious if that's normal. Not like i care anymore cause I just bought that pump but. Just curious.

Also, I HATE Pennzoil!!! I'll never run it! Has anyone tried AMSoil or Mobil 1. As well as a Mobil 1 or K&N filter that could possible give me a part number for either on a 350ci Monsoon (340hp). I noticed that Mobil 1 doesn't really have any 15w-40, but they have a 10w-40 that meets the same standards as the Pennzoil. Anyone ran this? And on the AMSOIL, they do have 15w-40 in a diesel oil. Has anyone ever ran that? I believe it was also the same spec as the manfucturer recommendation. I've ran Mobil 1 and AMSOIL In many cars including my old race car and LOVED IT! Went in clean, and came out looking the exact same as it did going in.

the recommendation for our boats is to use 15/40 diesel oil.

i have seen this comment before about the oil coming out as clean as it went in.

Is this good or bad?

Isn't dirty oil a sign that it is cleaning the engine.

I mean if one oil comes out clean where are the impurities that the dirty oil took out of the engine?

edit: i think the recommendation for diesel oil is because of the added detergents.

Edited February 28, 2010 by Cervelo

[Pistol Pete]

Pete, looks like you finally broke down and bought a real puller. I am still using my attached paint can stirs. After 3 years they haven't broke yet and still work good. Once you finally getting the impellor to budge, they slide right out. Getting that first movement sometimes is a bit of a challenge though.

Hey Dalt.

I've had the impeller puller for a couple years now. I did make one of your paint can contraptions but, haven't needed to use it yet. You'll notice in my very first pic. I posted I show all the tools you could use and there's your paint can openers. I used to use the two flat bladed screwdrivers with some electrical tape around the shafts for the longest time. It took me a while to convince the G.F. we needed the expensive puller to save my back.

[Pistol Pete]

Sweet Thanks! Just ordered one for myself! Wish someone would've posted that up before I attempted it :D

Had another question. When changing the oil with the oil drain line that would go out the drain on the boat. After it's all warmed up, should oil be flowing freely out that or will you still have to pump it out? I set it up thinking it'd flow freely out but I had to pump it up, just curious if that's normal. Not like i care anymore cause I just bought that pump but. Just curious.

Also, I HATE Pennzoil!!! I'll never run it! Has anyone tried AMSoil or Mobil 1. As well as a Mobil 1 or K&N filter that could possible give me a part number for either on a 350ci Monsoon (340hp). I noticed that Mobil 1 doesn't really have any 15w-40, but they have a 10w-40 that meets the same standards as the Pennzoil. Anyone ran this? And on the AMSOIL, they do have 15w-40 in a diesel oil. Has anyone ever ran that? I believe it was also the same spec as the manfucturer recommendation. I've ran Mobil 1 and AMSOIL In many cars including my old race car and LOVED IT! Went in clean, and came out looking the exact same as it did going in.

The oil always flows out very slowly even when hot. It's pretty thick. I put a brass fitting on the end of my oil drain line on the motor side that goes to a barb that goes right to the extractor. Pump it up, see all 5 qts. in the extractor, you're done.

As far as what oil to use, we've beat that to death. Use whatever you like as long as it has all the ratings it needs to be and is the correct viscosity. You could do a search on "oil" in titles and read away.

As far as filters for monsoon's you could use any of these. The Napa gold seems to be everyone's favorite.

Indmar oil filters:

5.0 + 5.7 Except LS-1

Merc. 35-802885T (or newer 35-866340K01)

AC PF25 (replaced by AC PF454), Penske PN30, Fram PH30,

Puro. L20049, Penn. PZ3, Castrol CM30, Motorcraft FL10,

Quaker State QS30, Wix 51069, Mobil 1 M1-302, NAPA gold 1069

Edited February 28, 2010 by Pistol Pete

[martinarcher]

Pete's right. Oil seems to be a preference thing, but I stick to the name brand synthetics for my machines. I have all Mobil 1 fluids in the boat. It was switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic in 94' and still has 140lbs of compression on each cylinder. I'll use what has been proven to keep it healthy for the last 16 summers.

The cars have Castrol Syntec in them. My wife blew a radiator hose two years ago and I had to tear the head off her car. I ended up doing a valve job while it was off since the engine had 88k on it. I didn't find a single trace of sludge in the entire engine when I had it apart. I was very impressed and will continue to use Castrol in the cars and truck.

[Bill_AirJunky]

Got out for a ride today, 50 degree air & 41 degree water. Flat as a mirror & we were the only boat out.

Our docks aren't out yet so it was a PITA getting on & off the boat. We launched & pulled out from a sandy beach. When we pulled the boat up, we drained everything almost immediately. Pulled the knock sensor, exhaust hoses, heater line's caps, and shower hoses while the boat was good n hot. Wasn't really an issue & took about 2 or 3 minutes. Started it for a second or two, pulled the drain plugs & got outta there.

When I parked it, I covered it & plugged the on-board bilge heater & trickle charger in. Good to go.

[Chia]

Got out for a ride today, 50 degree air & 41 degree water. Flat as a mirror & we were the only boat out.

Our docks aren't out yet so it was a PITA getting on & off the boat. We launched & pulled out from a sandy beach. When we pulled the boat up, we drained everything almost immediately. Pulled the knock sensor, exhaust hoses, heater line's caps, and shower hoses while the boat was good n hot. Wasn't really an issue & took about 2 or 3 minutes. Started it for a second or two, pulled the drain plugs & got outta there.

When I parked it, I covered it & plugged the on-board bilge heater & trickle charger in. Good to go.

do you drain the water out of the impeller housing?

[Bill_AirJunky]

do you drain the water out of the impeller housing?

Starting the engine briefly tends to blows out anything that doesn't drain on it's own. I pulled the hoses at the thermostat & didn't find anything.

[WakingMeHappy]

For next year, learn how to do the winterization yourself. It really isn't that hard and there are some great how to's available to guide you. You will be able to find many DIY winterization/oil change/impeller change threads on this site if you do a search. Not only will it save you money and hassle, but you will know it was done right.

Agreed. I did mine for the first time last fall. I was pretty easy. Now I’m looking forward to the spring when I can summarize it myself and listen to the engine crank up. All said and done I figure I’m saving about $250 by winterizing and summarizing it myself.