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Tedro

Would You Replace Tank?

Would you replace Tank?  

8 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you replace the leaking middle ballast tank?

    • Yes, I would want it replaced.
    • No, it doesn't seem like a big deal.
      0


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Tedro

My middle ballast tank on my 08 vRide has a leak on the port side upper intake area of the tank. It is under warrenty and the dealer tried to fix it but said the tank has a small crack at the fitting for the housing and must be replaced. He said he would need to remove the floor, gas tank, etc to do the replacement.

It doesn't leak very badly, a gallon or two at most into the bilge, and only when the tank is completely full does it drip out of that area, otherwise my bilge is always pretty dry.

My question is, would you bother with them replacing it with such a small leak while under warrenty? I don't like the idea of them removing everything and then me having additional problems that I don't already have, which seems to happen with boats and fuel tanks a great deal. My dealer is about a 100 miles away too.

I guess it could get worse, but hasn't in 2+ years.

Wanted to see what you all would do?

Edited by Tedro

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Molarbu

I'd get it fixed.

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Ndawg12

I'd get it fixed.

Plus1.gif especially now in the offseason.

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Malibuzer

I would get it fixed>>>>only if the dealer can guarantee it will be back to you before the season gets underway!

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CedarLakeSkier

It's under warranty, a no brainer... get it fixed.

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REW

off season and underwarnty....Yea get it fixed then before bringing the boat home take it, and some blankets, to the dealers lake and go for a long test drive.

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winddawg

I added the factory middle ballast tank to my 2004 LSV and while it was a bit of work, it is not a difficult job. In addition I had to add all of the hoses and pumps; in your case all that is in place and it is just replacing the tank so I would get it done.

-Dave

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msuwaterski

I would definitely get it fixed. Small leaks turn into big leaks over time, especially with vibrations that occur within a boats hull.

On the other hand I can see why you are hesitant. You could always try mighty putty Dontknow.gif

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liljohn

Think about it like this you sell the boat. The new owner takes it camping and docks it over night. Some one leaves the pump running by accident and the next morning the boat is on the bottom of the lake. The new owner calls you to express his concern. How due you feel? How due you feel knowing it could have not happened and at no expense to you...

I understand your concern about all the stuff to remove but honestly it is a small job with very little actual work. The floor is held in with a dozen screws. The gas tank has 2 lines to remove and 4 clips holding it in place, there are 1 maybe 2 pumps to move out of the way and 3 tank lines to disconnect from the actual tank. have faith in your dealer. If they can`t have it done by the beginning of the season have them order the parts and put you on the schedule for after winterizing madness next year. It has been my experience that getting the tank might take a while. if you dealer is good they will work with you on the time frame. I have had work done by my dealer and just told them to get the parts and hold them till they are slow. they sat on my dash replacements for 9 months. worked well for all.

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Lance B. Johnson

mine is doing the exact same thing. Even though I have to do it myself (out of warranty), it is going to get done during spring break. Good thing I left the fuel tank empty.

I noticed it last summer, but I wasn't going to take it out of service and lose days over it.

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Ronnie

IME...Those leaks are from too much tightening of the nipple into the plastic flange welded to the tank. It is very easy to crack that flange since the threads are tapered and the farther you tighten in the fitting the more it expands the flange until it cracks. I have been able to seal those cracks with a good sealer like 5200. You can't do it with teflon tape, it has to seal on the back side of the flange between the flange and the tank. Apply the sealer to the threaded flange fitting on the tank first making sure to get the sealer into the crack from the inside. Install a worm drive hose clamp onto the tank fitting and snug it down, a narrow style clamp works best here. This will help keep the fitting from expanding too much. Then apply the sealer to the hose nipple and thread it onto the tank fitting until it snugs down (even better if you can instal the hose and clamp on the nipple first). Don't over tighten it! Now don't touch it until the sealer has setup.

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