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Anti Siphons


Helinut

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valves on vents were closed - trying to hold as much water in as possible (reminds me of enema theory).

We never thought they would bust either obviously

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The reason for using Anti-Siphon vents instead of check-valves (and why the factory does it), is because water can actually go both ways depending on which bag you're talking about, and what the scenario is. For example, the dreaded passive filling of the center MLS bag/tank is one example of where a vented loop is required, as a check valve won't prevent the flow of water in that direction. You can also have situations where the rear bags will fill passively as well, but typically the problem there is draining, which a check valve will prevent.

Shoot me a PM and I can hook you up with a discount on the vented loops. They're still a little spendy, but hands down it's the best way to solve the passive draining/filling issue if you want it to be hands off. We're also donating 10% of all sales this week to Haiti relief efforts, which wouldn't be much for a couple of loops, but every little bit helps.

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Good point skicrave.

I do have a loop on my ski locker sac and I think it works as a vent/burp as well.

But I'll keep the valves on the rear ones

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Good point skicrave.

I do have a loop on my ski locker sac and I think it works as a vent/burp as well.

But I'll keep the valves on the rear ones

Yep, definitely no reason to change out the rear ones, we've never seen rear bags fill passively.

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Yep, definitely no reason to change out the rear ones, we've never seen rear bags fill passively.

Also shut off valves at each fill so no unwanted fill anyway.

To be clear it goes:

Thru hull ball valve > Tsunami Pump > check valve > T > hose to left rear and one to right rear > shut off valve at each fill end.

Both pumps fill both rear 750lb sacs but close the valve to a side if you don't want it filled.

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Also shut off valves at each fill so no unwanted fill anyway.

To be clear it goes:

Thru hull ball valve > Tsunami Pump > check valve > T > hose to left rear and one to right rear > shut off valve at each fill end.

Both pumps fill both rear 750lb sacs but close the valve to a side if you don't want it filled.

Oh crap!! Does the original configuration have just 1 ball valve for both rear hard tanks? I'm pretty sure they are manifolded out of 1 thru hull. I can't remember!!

Edited by Ndawg12
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No there are 2 pumps in the bilge - one on each side that were originally 700 pgh and each filled a 250 hard tank.

I removed the tanks several years ago for 750lb sacs and upgraded the pumps to 1200gph and the hose to 1".

This year also added plumbed in sacs under the seats all the way to the observer seat.

Just a cabin clean up measure.

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Oh crap!! Does the original configuration have just 1 ball valve for both rear hard tanks? I'm pretty sure they are manifolded out of 1 thru hull. I can't remember!!

Depends on the year, model and who was rigging the day the boat was built. Brad's boat had an intake for each pump, all of the newer ones have both rear pumps off one thru-hull with a Tee fitting (that way the other thru-hull is still available for draining the oil).

You can do it either way, but the capacity of the 3/4" thru-hull is 2,200GPH, so if you're using T1200s you may see a slight reduction in speed with two off of one intake.

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Depends on the year, model and who was rigging the day the boat was built. Brad's boat had an intake for each pump, all of the newer ones have both rear pumps off one thru-hull with a Tee fitting (that way the other thru-hull is still available for draining the oil).

You can do it either way, but the capacity of the 3/4" thru-hull is 2,200GPH, so if you're using T1200s you may see a slight reduction in speed with two off of one intake.

Hey skicrave my boat has a through hull for each (4) pump, there are no tee's. When you say all the new ones what year boats are you talking about?

I do plan on teeing off one of the through hulls for the rear pumps as I won't be using the goofy side pump when running my regular side fill for surfing. So in effect it will have it's own through hull while in use. I was going to just use the through hull that the T handle drain fitting in the bilge is using but can't get a pump to fit with the valve in there.

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These guys have them, but i have no experience with this product.

http://www.wakemaker...d-ballast-parts

actually Bakes, right there in WA has them as well.

http://www.bakesonli...il.aspx?ID=1616

I think the wording in the bakes ad should say "particulate" instead of "particular".

Thanks for the catch, I changed that word and the part description so the cap and duckbill replacement does not get confused with the complete valve.

Thanks!

Paul

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  • 1 month later...

I replaced our hard tanks with 750's 2 years ago and have been continually battling the sacks draining on their own. The rear sacks frill from the back of the boat and drain/vent out the side. My first problem is...

I am not sure if it's siphoning out the drain line, fill line, or both...?

My second problem is that I put in ball valves on both the drain and fill lines and then decided that I don't like/want to have to manually get back there and open/close valves each time I want to fill or drain the sacks. A check valve will work just fine for the fill lines, but if it is draining from the drain line, is my only option the ball valve?

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Anybody got their W749 air release valve?

I'm thinking I could use one since I don't have a vent.

How big is it?

post-29-126939688965_thumb.jpg

Edited by Pistol Pete
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I replaced our hard tanks with 750's 2 years ago and have been continually battling the sacks draining on their own. The rear sacks frill from the back of the boat and drain/vent out the side. My first problem is...

I am not sure if it's siphoning out the drain line, fill line, or both...?

My second problem is that I put in ball valves on both the drain and fill lines and then decided that I don't like/want to have to manually get back there and open/close valves each time I want to fill or drain the sacks. A check valve will work just fine for the fill lines, but if it is draining from the drain line, is my only option the ball valve?

Ditto here on the drain problem and I still just use a ball valve. I open the rtunk and make sure it fills properly anyway so its no big deal to turn the valve
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