Water Cooled Shaft Seal?

[Baddog]

FYI, against my dealer and the dealer's mechanic's recomendations, I went with the Water Cooled Shaft Seal.

Thanks for all of the input everyone!

Atta Boy! Feels good to own a pair, doesn't it?

[Bobby Light]

We have been running the XPC Seal System on other MFG'S boats since 2003 with very good success. The system has worked very well on the Malibu line since it was introduced in 2006. The only issue that I have seen with a system, from any builder, is the shaft not being aligned. This issue will be a problem on any sealing system, rope packing or our double lip seals. So, with good alignment the system should work for many years without an issue. The original test boat for the system, which we put 1,000 hours on in 20002, is still running strong. This system was tested with no water to the housing. Replacing the seal in the event it needs replacing is as easy as repacking the old style system. The lip seal is pressed into the housing and retained with a clip. Simply remove the clip, pop the old seal out and install the new seal and clip. Trim the "hump" hose to insure the seals ride on a clean and smooth portion of the shaft and you're done.

Feel free to give me a call if anyone has more questions. Hope this helps.

Eric

Paul Eric's dog looks like Cooper's twin.. Nice looking Dog Eric.

[ds53652]

Eric,

thanks for chiming in here and sharing this info.

Can you think of any reason why a dealer and their chief mechanic would so adamantly try and sway me towards the rope packing system?

Is this system installed at the factory or is it a dealer install?

Since this dealer pretty much orders all of their boats with the rope packing system, should I be concerned with yearly maintenance/adjustment of the seal system?

Thanks again Eric, Roger

We have been running the XPC Seal System on other MFG'S boats since 2003 with very good success. The system has worked very well on the Malibu line since it was introduced in 2006. The only issue that I have seen with a system, from any builder, is the shaft not being aligned. This issue will be a problem on any sealing system, rope packing or our double lip seals. So, with good alignment the system should work for many years without an issue. The original test boat for the system, which we put 1,000 hours on in 20002, is still running strong. This system was tested with no water to the housing. Replacing the seal in the event it needs replacing is as easy as repacking the old style system. The lip seal is pressed into the housing and retained with a clip. Simply remove the clip, pop the old seal out and install the new seal and clip. Trim the "hump" hose to insure the seals ride on a clean and smooth portion of the shaft and you're done.

Feel free to give me a call if anyone has more questions. Hope this helps.

Eric

[85 Barefoot]

I can speculate...they want to do more work on your boat. The dripless requires absolutely no maintenance at all, rope packing and adjusting always will.

[Woodski]

The dripless or water cooled shaft seal is a very simple and common rubber lip seal. The only issue with replacement is the fact that the shaft has to be removed from the transmission so that the seal can slip over it. Not difficult at all, can be done in a few minutes with basic tools.

The dripless seal actually runs very cool, does not drip and offers less resistance than a rope seal that does need annual attention and constant monitoring to ensure the correct drip rate. It looks like installation is where the best chance of damage occurs.

I run the dripless seal without the additional water cooling, it works just fine that way, the shaft stays cool and the water gets up to the backside of the seal just like it does on the rope seal.

[85 Barefoot]

The dripless or water cooled shaft seal is a very simple and common rubber lip seal. The only issue with replacement is the fact that the shaft has to be removed from the transmission so that the seal can slip over it. Not difficult at all, can be done in a few minutes with basic tools.

The dripless seal actually runs very cool, does not drip and offers less resistance than a rope seal that does need annual attention and constant monitoring to ensure the correct drip rate. It looks like installation is where the best chance of damage occurs.

I run the dripless seal without the additional water cooling, it works just fine that way, the shaft stays cool and the water gets up to the backside of the seal just like it does on the rope seal.

Interesting. Eric, can you do that?

[Bake's Marine]

We have been running the XPC Seal System on other MFG'S boats since 2003 with very good success. The system has worked very well on the Malibu line since it was introduced in 2006. The only issue that I have seen with a system, from any builder, is the shaft not being aligned. This issue will be a problem on any sealing system, rope packing or our double lip seals. So, with good alignment the system should work for many years without an issue. The original test boat for the system, which we put 1,000 hours on in 20002, is still running strong. This system was tested with no water to the housing. Replacing the seal in the event it needs replacing is as easy as repacking the old style system. The lip seal is pressed into the housing and retained with a clip. Simply remove the clip, pop the old seal out and install the new seal and clip. Trim the "hump" hose to insure the seals ride on a clean and smooth portion of the shaft and you're done.

Feel free to give me a call if anyone has more questions. Hope this helps.

Eric

Thanks Eric for the information!

Paul Eric's dog looks like Cooper's twin.. Nice looking Dog Eric.

She is a good looking dog!! Coop needs a new girlfriend it looks like she likes hunting too, bonus!

Here is Coop:

Interesting. Eric, can you do that?

I think they were just doing that for testing to see how much they could abuse it.

-Paul

[Woodski]

I do have my shaft perfectly aligned, ensuring angularity and center location. Certainly any misalignment would potentially stress the seal.

The other item to note is that I use the boat the same way all the time, either pulling a skier or footer. With that duty cycle, the boat will also come to rest within 10 minutes of starting, never running for an extented period of time across the lake. With that in mind, I know that water will end up against the seal often no matter what the hydrodynamics of the shaft seal area are in a moving boat.

[Eric Johnson]

I have no idea why a dealer would not advise to run the seal system. It is a very simple system that has a very low chance of failure that requires no adjusting, unlike the standard packing or other "dripless" systems. The seal we use is unique in that it is a double lip seal and is not a standard rubber seal. No other system uses a seal like ours. The sytem is insalled at the factory on new boats.

We do not suggest running the system without the water supply. We did the testing without to prove the systems reliablilty.

Thanks for the comments on Abby. She is a great little dog that works hard in the duck blind, hunting and pointing quail/grouse, and can outsnore me on the couch. Am looking to breeding her this spring.

[ds53652]

Thnx Eric!

Sincerely, Roger

[Bake's Marine]

Thanks Eric!!

-Paul

[A7X_LSV_23]

Hey I just purchased a 2004 LSV, boat has 97 hrs on it. I noticed from the test drive there was quite a bit of water in it and know that the seal needs adjusting and what not when I take it in and have everything serviced... I know, don't fix it unless it's broken but I really don't like the idea of water even coming in the boat. I'm fairly new to V-drives, anyone got pics of the two different types of seals? And anyone know a typical/general rate a dealer would charge to swap in a water-cooled shaft seal. After reading all the replies it sounds like it's worth it and pretty hassel free so.

[Bake's Marine]

Hey I just purchased a 2004 LSV, boat has 97 hrs on it. I noticed from the test drive there was quite a bit of water in it and know that the seal needs adjusting and what not when I take it in and have everything serviced... I know, don't fix it unless it's broken but I really don't like the idea of water even coming in the boat. I'm fairly new to V-drives, anyone got pics of the two different types of seals? And anyone know a typical/general rate a dealer would charge to swap in a water-cooled shaft seal. After reading all the replies it sounds like it's worth it and pretty hassle free so.

I'm home sick so i don't have all the numbers in front of me but i will help out the best i can.

Off the top of my head the OJ drip less seal kit is about $160, labor would include removing the coupler, prop, (rudder if in the way of removing the prop shaft) then the removing the prop shaft out, removing the old shaft seal and installing /plumbing the new. In a shop you should be looking at 4-7 hours labor and when the shaft goes back in you might as well have them check the shaft alignment since they have the coupler loose.

It's a really nice option to have, well worth not dealing with water in the boat and having another thing you have to service.

Congrats on the new boat!

-Paul

[85 Barefoot]

While I put on a dripless recently, I think a recommdendation to a potential buyer of a NEw boat is different than recommending someone retrofit. I installed mine. I would never pay 4-7 hours of labor to have it retrofitted. The packing system is very simple and very cheap.

[A7X_LSV_23]

So anywhere from $400-$700ish lol. Another question, if one was to leave the boat in the water for the weekend. Approx how much water will drip into the boat with the seal it's got in it right now? Guessing water will seep through even when it's not on/running? I mean, there was a good inch in the bottom of the boat in 15-20 minutes of driving it around. Curious if I left the boat for 12 hrs in the water there ain't gonna be a foot of water in it.

[Bake's Marine]

So anywhere from $400-$700ish lol. Another question, if one was to leave the boat in the water for the weekend. Approx how much water will drip into the boat with the seal it's got in it right now? Guessing water will seep through even when it's not on/running? I mean, there was a good inch in the bottom of the boat in 15-20 minutes of driving it around. Curious if I left the boat for 12 hrs in the water there ain't gonna be a foot of water in it.

Funny? Why don't you install it yourself? Parts are only $160

Yes the seal will leak even sitting in the water, if it is leaking that much it's time to get it serviced (tightened or re-packed) or you have a leak coming from another fitting someplace.

-Paul

[A7X_LSV_23]

Funny? Why don't you install it yourself? Parts are only $160

Yes the seal will leak even sitting in the water, if it is leaking that much it's time to get it serviced (tightened or re-packed) or you have a leak coming from another fitting someplace.

-Paul

I honestly have NO idea what they even look like or how to pull the shaft or anything else so. I'm savy with cars, but not v-drive boats lol. Something that would take a dealer that knows what they're doing 4-7 hrs, would take me all day not knowing what I'm doing so. And it's gotta go in for a service anyways so. It's either gotta be repacked or just tightened. But rather then having it tightening or repacked every year, I was just gonna save the time and money and have them throw the water cooled seal in and be done with it. But either way, it's going to the dealership before it hits the water again so.

[Ronnie]

We've used the packing on these shafts for many years. It takes only a few minutes to adjust. Learn how and do it maybe adjust it a few times a season at the most. If you don't get it fixed, make sure your bilge pump and float is working.

[evanlaczi]

Do you guys have pictures of the drip-less system install? how big does the wrench have to be to take that axle bolt and lock bolt off?