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board brained

Fresh water / closed cooling

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board brained

my BU is going to spend alot of time in the salt water as we live two blocks off ocean. I am going to put closed cooling on it and have been doing some research. any comments around this appreciated, thinking of a complete system, I have the 2007 320 LCR MPI motor.

heard issues with cooling the entire unit and leaks?

one of my neighbors did just the block and not the exhaust system. have cast iron exhaust (I think) on mine.

thanks

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Baddog

If you are going to be in salt water, you need to do the complete install.

Edited by Baddog

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Todd34

The complete system was WAY more than the half-closed system when I looked into it. We have brackish water around here and I know that eventually I will have to replace the exhaust manifolds. Call Bakes, they hooked me up with the right system.

Todd

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Bake's Marine

my BU is going to spend alot of time in the salt water as we live two blocks off ocean. I am going to put closed cooling on it and have been doing some research. any comments around this appreciated, thinking of a complete system, I have the 2007 320 LCR MPI motor.

heard issues with cooling the entire unit and leaks?

one of my neighbors did just the block and not the exhaust system. have cast iron exhaust (I think) on mine.

thanks

We do 10 or so closed cooling kits a year and at your point and set up, i would do the half cooling kit. Make sure you have a drip less shaft seal, equip the boat with shaft, wedge, and transom zinc's and use corrosion guard on a regular basis. Do you have access to fresh water where you can flush the motor? If so do a Perko transom mount flush kit so you can easily hook up a garden hose and flush it out when you need to.

You will get 10+ years on your cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Drop me a e-mail if you need help getting parts to get the job done.

-Paul

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board brained

We do 10 or so closed cooling kits a year and at your point and set up, i would do the half cooling kit. Make sure you have a drip less shaft seal, equip the boat with shaft, wedge, and transom zinc's and use corrosion guard on a regular basis. Do you have access to fresh water where you can flush the motor? If so do a Perko transom mount flush kit so you can easily hook up a garden hose and flush it out when you need to.

You will get 10+ years on your cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Drop me a e-mail if you need help getting parts to get the job done.

-Paul

My last boat (4.3 merc) which i bought new as well did not have closed cooling and I flushed the motor diligently every time. Had it for 5 years over 500 hours on it most in the salt and no issues (guess I was lucky). Anyway I think I am going to do as you suggested re half, with all the zincs. re the dripless shaft seal is this important? and what is corrosion guard?

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Bake's Marine

My last boat (4.3 merc) which i bought new as well did not have closed cooling and I flushed the motor diligently every time. Had it for 5 years over 500 hours on it most in the salt and no issues (guess I was lucky). Anyway I think I am going to do as you suggested re half, with all the zincs. re the drip-less shaft seal is this important? and what is corrosion guard?

The drip-less shaft seal on a salt water boat is really important. With out it you will be letting in salt water into your bilge constantly, letting it work its lovely corrosive magic on everything in your engine compartment and in your bilge.

Look at corrosion guard as a barrier so when salt water condensates on your block you will have that barrier there to help prevent corrosion. This Boeshield Corrosion Guard is the best stuff we stock and use when we do all of our winterizing. Corrosion X, even WD-40 can work but the Boeshield is awesome. We sprayed a new piece of steel and left it out in our in our boat yard (Seattle area) and the Boeshield worked the best. I guess it should since they use it in aviation for Boeing.

-Paul

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