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Harrison256

Installing Silent Tip Exhaust?

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Harrison256

I've got an 06 Wakesetter 23 LSV and I want to install the Silent Tip Exhaust from Bakes marine. Can anyone link me to the topic on this? I've come across it before but couldn't find it in the search. Is it an easy install I'm mildly mechanically inclined but my craftsmanship is sloppy...

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CedarLakeSkier

I've got an 06 Wakesetter 23 LSV and I want to install the Silent Tip Exhaust from Bakes marine. Can anyone link me to the topic on this? I've come across it before but couldn't find it in the search. Is it an easy install I'm mildly mechanically inclined but my craftsmanship is sloppy...

Is it the in-line Silent tip exhaust or the actual external stainless steel turn down silent tip exhaust?

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68Slalom

I would contact Bakes Marine for help Thumbup.gif they post up frequently on the board

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Harrison256

Is it the in-line Silent tip exhaust or the actual external stainless steel turn down silent tip exhaust?

I already have the Silent Rider Mufflers if thats what your talking about? As far as the tips they are the ones off of bakes marine I believe with 35* turndowns with baffles in them

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Bake's Marine

I've got an 06 Wakesetter 23 LSV and I want to install the Silent Tip Exhaust from Bakes marine. Can anyone link me to the topic on this? I've come across it before but couldn't find it in the search. Is it an easy install I'm mildly mechanically inclined but my craftsmanship is sloppy...

Here is a quick install break down to help you out for the STE Exhaust tips: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=756

  • Remove screws to flapper and old exhaust ports (outside boat)
  • Remove double hose clamps (inside boat)
  • Take a razer blade and get behind old exhaust port to cut into the old silicone as much as possible.
  • Take a rubber strap wrench or large channel locks and spin the old exhaust port in place to break the rest of the silicone free
  • Remove old exhaust port
  • Remove all old silicone, scrape thick silicone with razer blade. The rest can be cleaned up with adhesive remover, acetone, etc
  • Place new exhaust port in place
  • mark the 3 new mounting holes
  • Pre-drill holes
  • Chamfer (counter sink) around pre-drilled hole to avoid any stress or spider cracking http://www.bosch-do-it.co.uk/mam/bosch-pt-centralpool/diy/diyknowledge/lexicon/senker.jpeg
  • Use Liberal amount of silicone marine adhesive: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1105
  • Spray inside exhaust hose with WD-40
  • Mount Exhaust ports: Suggested Screws to use: #14 Stainless Pan Head Wood Screws; 1" long
  • clean up excess silicone
  • Re-tighten double hose clamp on the inside of the boat
  • Let silicone cure for at least 24 hours

Hope this helps you out!!

-Paul

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Harrison256

Here is a quick install break down to help you out for the STE Exhaust tips: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=756

  • Remove screws to flapper and old exhaust ports (outside boat)
  • Remove double hose clamps (inside boat)
  • Take a razer blade and get behind old exhaust port to cut into the old silicone as much as possible.
  • Take a rubber strap wrench or large channel locks and spin the old exhaust port in place to break the rest of the silicone free
  • Remove old exhaust port
  • Remove all old silicone, scrape thick silicone with razer blade. The rest can be cleaned up with adhesive remover, acetone, etc
  • Place new exhaust port in place
  • mark the 3 new mounting holes
  • Pre-drill holes
  • Chamfer (counter sink) around pre-drilled hole to avoid any stress or spider cracking http://www.bosch-do-it.co.uk/mam/bosch-pt-centralpool/diy/diyknowledge/lexicon/senker.jpeg
  • Use Liberal amount of silicone marine adhesive: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1105
  • Spray inside exhaust hose with WD-40
  • Mount Exhaust ports: Suggested Screws to use: #14 Stainless Pan Head Wood Screws; 1" long
  • clean up excess silicone
  • Re-tighten double hose clamp on the inside of the boat
  • Let silicone cure for at least 24 hours

Hope this helps you out!!

-Paul

That does help out a lot, now I know what I'm getting into. A few additional questions.. I've never had to Chamfer before is it something I should be worried about screwing up? And what other risk or permanent or expansive damage is there (especially with cracking the gel coat? I just got the boat not too long ago I'd hate to screw it up.

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23LSVDAVE

The countersinking is very easy. I just installed these on my boat. I didn't even use the countersink bit in my drill. I just turned the bit by hand. The gelcoat is very easy to get through. Remember the flange around your new exhaust will cover the area you countersink. (That was very comforting to me when I did mine) No one mentions how hard the old ones are to remove. That silicone holds them in there really really well. Using the channel locks worked best for me, you can't be gentle when removing them. I love mine now that they are in, but I was scared too when I started the project. Its actually pretty easy to do. I have done two sets now. Have Fun

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Harrison256

The countersinking is very easy. I just installed these on my boat. I didn't even use the countersink bit in my drill. I just turned the bit by hand. The gelcoat is very easy to get through. Remember the flange around your new exhaust will cover the area you countersink. (That was very comforting to me when I did mine) No one mentions how hard the old ones are to remove. That silicone holds them in there really really well. Using the channel locks worked best for me, you can't be gentle when removing them. I love mine now that they are in, but I was scared too when I started the project. Its actually pretty easy to do. I have done two sets now. Have Fun

Think it might be easier to do with a strap wrench instead of channel locks? Just asking because I'm gonna go get the stuff for it tomorrow. I'll try to take photos when I do it in case there isn't already a step by step guide on here w/photos that I'm overlooking

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Baddog

Think it might be easier to do with a strap wrench instead of channel locks? Just asking because I'm gonna go get the stuff for it tomorrow. I'll try to take photos when I do it in case there isn't already a step by step guide on here w/photos that I'm overlooking

Depending on how much silicone is left, a strap wrench will work but it might make it easier if you add a small pipe to the handle to let leverage work for you.

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CedarLakeSkier

Just wondering, is there really a benefit to having both the inline silencers and the silent tip exhaust?

Assuming there is also a muffler, wouldn't all these items just keep adding more back pressure to the exhaust system?

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Harrison256

Just wondering, is there really a benefit to having both the inline silencers and the silent tip exhaust?

Assuming there is also a muffler, wouldn't all these items just keep adding more back pressure to the exhaust system?

I want it for surfing. Less fumes. But I wouldn't mind knowing the answer to that. I doubt the difference would be noticable, I feel like the force of the flaps would probably be more back pressure than the tiny baffles in the tips (not really). But I don't have a clue

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23LSVDAVE

The Strap wrench is great, however it is really hard to get all the silicone out from the lower half of the old black plastic exhaust. The first set I did I spent a long time in there cleaning out the old silicone. What I found was that either way its still pretty tough to get the old ones out. What I did with the channel locks was grab the edge of the old exhaust that sticks out from the back of the boat and pull the top half in a down and away motion from the boat. The bottom half, pull and bend up and away from the boat. That motion will break the old silicone free and your not going to damage the boat. You will damage that old exhaust piece with the bite marks from the channel locks, but that will go in the trash anyway. Since your boat is a little older than mine, the silicone may be a little weaker. I did mine when my boat was a few months old and that silicone was really tough. Hopefully the strap wrench works for you, it would be a little simpler that way. (Maybe even a combo of the two methods) Keep me posted how it turns out for you.

No one really mentions the prep on the reinstall, but spend the extra time getting that old silicone off. Its a time consuming job, but obviously you don't want to have to mess with these things ever again.

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Bake's Marine

That does help out a lot, now I know what I'm getting into. A few additional questions.. I've never had to Chamfer before is it something I should be worried about screwing up? And what other risk or permanent or expansive damage is there (especially with cracking the gel coat? I just got the boat not too long ago I'd hate to screw it up.

All it is is countersinking the hole, on that part it is not really necessary but i would do it on any hole drilled in gel-coat if you can.

It's pretty hard to screw up, the hardest part is getting the old tips out. Once you break that old silicone seal loose it's all down hill. Cleaning up the old silicone takes a while. Scraping off the old with a razer blade makes it go a lot faster.

Paul

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eyepeeler

Here is a quick install break down to help you out for the STE Exhaust tips: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=756

  • Remove screws to flapper and old exhaust ports (outside boat)
  • Remove double hose clamps (inside boat)
  • Take a razer blade and get behind old exhaust port to cut into the old silicone as much as possible.
  • Take a rubber strap wrench or large channel locks and spin the old exhaust port in place to break the rest of the silicone free
  • Remove old exhaust port
  • Remove all old silicone, scrape thick silicone with razer blade. The rest can be cleaned up with adhesive remover, acetone, etc
  • Place new exhaust port in place
  • mark the 3 new mounting holes
  • Pre-drill holes
  • Chamfer (counter sink) around pre-drilled hole to avoid any stress or spider cracking http://www.bosch-do-it.co.uk/mam/bosch-pt-centralpool/diy/diyknowledge/lexicon/senker.jpeg
  • Use Liberal amount of silicone marine adhesive: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1105
  • Spray inside exhaust hose with WD-40
  • Mount Exhaust ports: Suggested Screws to use: #14 Stainless Pan Head Wood Screws; 1" long
  • clean up excess silicone
  • Re-tighten double hose clamp on the inside of the boat
  • Let silicone cure for at least 24 hours

Hope this helps you out!!

-Paul

How many hours to do this job?

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fedupracer

This Job took me about a hour and half, however i used some fishing line to gut the silicone from old exasht ports , i took the line wrapped around the side of the ports and worked in a sawwing motion to cut the silicon free then use the rubber band wrench and twited it right out, hardest part for me was getting the hose clamps back on inside the boat, i had to put my beer down and use both hands! lol

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wakesetter8796

What about my exhaust? I can't upload a pic, but it is stainless, but it's straight. It's an 08 boat. What is mine called? Is it also a STE?

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Cory

I couldn't get the channel locks to work for me. The outter flange of the plastic exhaust just starting breaking apart. I went to Lowes and purchases a strap wrench and was able to take off the one I had broken already with easy and the other side came off in seconds and could have been reused by someone else. Just use a fair sized strap wrench and position your body to the side of the boat for best leverage and pull back like a rowing motion. I struggled and struggled with the channel locks, but got them off in seconds with the strap wrench. What's the saying... the right tools makes a tough job easy... or something like that???

I scrapped the old silicon off for about an hour or so with rasor blades, and then used Goof-Off to clean up the residue.

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Shastasurf

I finished install today.  A couple things that weren't listed on the install list:. 9/64" drill bit was a good size for me and using some sort of square to mark the bottom center screw hole. I also used a level on exhaust ends to double check.  Thanks for the write up eye peeler!

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Nitrousbird

Still have my STE's for sale if anyone wants a set for less than they can score them new.

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Badgerski51

Question....I have a 2002 SS LXI. Can I access the clamps on the inside or do I need to remove the gas tank to do it? I'd like to swap out the flappers for the turndowns but don't really want to pull out the gas tank. 

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