Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
the_dude

My ballast install with pics. Did it in one day on Saturday, Wakeboarded Sunday!

Recommended Posts

the_dude

So I bought my boat a year ago. It came with the center locker MLS sack to which I added fly high V drive sacks in the Spring of this year but have been going crazy filling and draining them one at a time with the pump over the side deal and therefore fantasizing about automating the rear sacks. I finally bit the bullet and installed them yesterday.

Including going to pick up the boat a few miles away to bring it home, a few trips to the store and a few random breaks it took me about 10 hours from beginning to end to stumble my way through the job. For my first time I guess that's not too bad.

People have posted lots of good write ups but here is another one for people. Here are the highlights of my system:

- two Tsunami 1200's for fill

- two Tsunami 800's for drain

- Single 1" thru hull to run both fill pumps

- Fill set up is 1" Bronze thru hull > 1" Bronze 90* street elbow > 1" Bronze ball valve > 1" Sch 80 PVC union > 1" sch 40 PVC Tee. 1st Tee goes to 1" x 3/4" bushing > fly high 747 adapter to Tsunami 1200 pump. 2nd Tee opening goes to 1" sch 80 to hose barb adapter > 1" braided hose looped under motor to other side of bilge > 1" Sch 80 pvc hose barb > 1" union > 1" x 3/4" bushing > fly high 747 adapter > Tsunami 1200 pump.

- 1" braided hose from both 1200 pumps to the bags

- 3/4" hose for drain and vent

- Tsunami 800's screwed directly into bags

- drain and vent Tee'd into single 3/4" thru hull at the side of the boat.

A trick I figured out for cutting down the pump intakes quickly but keeping them square/level was to screw the plastic nut on backwards to the place I wanted to cut and use a hack saw against the nut as I sawed through. It wasn't perfect but good enough with a bit of filing post cut and way better than freehand.

One of the best parts about this install is that I went wakeboarding the next day with it totally untested and it WORKED!! I did have siphoning in the fill lines so I just closed the ball valve. The one pic I have of the sac is not totally full because that is before I figured out the siphon issue. There are a couple of other minor bugs I need to work out but over all the system is working well.

Here are some pics of the installation and set up:

Marking the spot for the thru hull (note this literally could not be any closer to the gas tank or I wouldn't of been able to screw the 90* elbow on (few!)

markingthespot.jpg

The dremel with the flex adapter made it easy to drill the pilot holes

dremeltodrillthemakerho.jpg

OMG I just drilled a hole in my boat!

hole3.jpg

Thru hull mounted

thruhullonly.jpg

My "manifold" for lack of a better description. I asked for advice orginally in using a single thru hull for both pumps and was told to go with separate thru hulls. Not only in the end was that more money but it was a nightmare trying to fit everthing especially considering assembling the parts. I'm very glad I used the 1" thru hull instead.

manifoldwopump.jpg

My cheap method of adapting a Tsunami 1200 to a 1" hose barb on the inlet

omgholeinthebottom.jpg

Starboard fill pump resting on the bottom of the bilge. Haven't done it yet but I will further secure it with zip ties to the raw water hose and steering cable. It was already pretty secure to do my maiden voyage with

portfillpumpinbilge.jpg

Port fill pump installed.

manifoldwithpump.jpg

Drilling hole for drain and vent on Starboard side. I had trouble finding info on whether to locate these at the rear or up in front of the bags to account for bow rise. I went in front of the bags and am glad I did.

starboarddrainventhole.jpg

With the thru hull installed. Went with black plastic to be cheap and to match the existing bilge and center MLS thru hulls.

starboardsidedrainventt.jpg

Since I had the old rotary switches and no room on the dash I mounted a panel to the right by the fuse panel. Here I am cutting a hole.

cuttingawayswitchpannel.jpg

Switch panel installed. I made the panel wide enough for a 3rd bow ballast switch some day. The aluminum plate was really to thin as it distorts slightly from the foam behind the vinyl. I would like to use black ABS plastic to match the dash housing anyways but haven't found any yet.

switchpanneldone.jpg

Here is a shot of the starboard bag. I don't have a shot of it all the way full as this was taken before I realized I was getting siphon back through the fill line and closed the ball valve.

starboardsacknearlyfull.jpg

Edited by the_dude

Share this post


Link to post
the_dude

In case anyone else is trying to budget a project like this here is my attempt at a comprehensive parts list. Note I totally underestimated the cost originally at $300...

1" thru hull $21

1.25" hole saw $8

Marine adhesive (4000) $15

Plumbers tape $1

1" 90* street elbow $26

1" Ball valve $36

1" sch 80 PVC union $1

1" sch 40 PVC tee $2

1" x 3/4" bushing (nylon) $3

747 x 2 $13

Tsunami 1200 x 2 $80

1" ID braided hose (14') $35

1" sch 80 hose barb to NPT x2 $5

1" x 3/4" bushing (sch 40) $1

1" female union $1

1.25" SS clamps x 6 $6

W733 x2 (1" to bag barb) $14

W737 x 2 (3/4" bag barb) $12

3/4" ID braided hose (35') $53

1" SS clamps x 12 $11

Tsunami 800 x 2 $60

3/4" Wye connectors x2 $10

3/4" thru hull x2 $9

1" hole saw $7

100' 14 gauge marine wire $65

Rocker switch x2 $40

Aluminum plate $6

water proof connectors $17

Misc wire connectors $15

10 gauge wire to supply switches $14

Thru hull tool $18

New hacksaw blade $3

Total $605

You can probably find some items cheaper if you price shop enough. A few items I estimated the cost based on memory as I didn't have the receipts in front of me.

It's funny that the bags and a single pump with accessories to throw overboard costs half of just the parts to plumb it all in.

EDIT: Just saw a quick error where the two 747 adapters were listed for the price of one.

Edited by the_dude

Share this post


Link to post
Stanley Wheelhouse

In case anyone else is trying to budget a project like this here is my attempt at a comprehensive parts list. Note I totally underestimated the cost originally at $300...

1" thru hull $21

1.25" hole saw $8

Marine adhesive (4000) $15

Plumbers tape $1

1" 90* street elbow $26

1" Ball valve $36

1" sch 80 PVC union $1

1" sch 40 PVC tee $2

1" x 3/4" bushing (nylon) $3

747 x 2 $7

Tsunami 1200 x 2 $80

1" ID braided hose (14') $35

1" sch 80 hose barb to NPT x2 $5

1" x 3/4" bushing (sch 40) $1

1" female union $1

1.25" SS clamps x 6 $6

W733 x2 (1" to bag barb) $14

W737 x 2 (3/4" bag barb) $12

3/4" ID braided hose (35') $53

1" SS clamps x 12 $11

Tsunami 800 x 2 $60

3/4" Wye connectors x2 $10

3/4" thru hull x2 $9

1" hole saw $7

100' 14 gauge marine wire $65

Rocker switch x2 $40

Aluminum plate $6

water proof connectors $17

Misc wire connectors $15

10 gauge wire to supply switches $14

Thru hull tool $18

New hacksaw blade $3

Total $598

You can probably find some items cheaper if you price shop enough. A few items I estimated the cost based on memory as I didn't have the receipts in front of me.

It's funny that the bags and a single pump with accessories to throw overboard costs half of just the parts to plumb it all in.

NICE!

Share this post


Link to post
cyoda44

These will fix the syphoning problem you are having....Ballast Anti Syphon Valve 3/4

Could be a nice Christmas gift!

Edited by cyoda44

Share this post


Link to post
the_dude

These will fix the syphoning problem you are having....Ballast Anti Syphon Valve 3/4

Could be a nice Christmas gift!

Thanks! Yeah for that price I am certainly not going to rush out and buy it since a simple flip of the ball valve takes care of it for now. I think it will be cheaper to just add one way flapper valves (I've read they don't restrict flow) in the 1" fill lines.

Share this post


Link to post
skicrave

Nice install the_dude!

Check valves will work to prevent the rear bags from draining, but won't work to prevent passive filling that occurs with the front bag (if you end up going that route down the road). Also, you'll obviously want to use a 1" vented loop since you're using 1" hose (and not the 3/4" vented loop linked to above), again if you end up going that route.

Share this post


Link to post
Bake's Marine

Nice DIY prodject! Did you cut that hole out with a dremel tool? If you did, you are the dremel master!!!

Do you find that type of hose wanting to kink over easy? I see in one picture with the bag where the hose is having a hard time making the bend.

Good job!

-Paul

Share this post


Link to post
the_dude

Nice DIY prodject! Did you cut that hole out with a dremel tool? If you did, you are the dremel master!!!

Do you find that type of hose wanting to kink over easy? I see in one picture with the bag where the hose is having a hard time making the bend.

Good job!

-Paul

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the Compliments.

No I used a "hole saw" bit in my regular drill from Home Depot. I has pulled out the dremel to make the "pilot" holes not knowing for sure if I would have to drill in some tight spot. With the pilot hole drilled from the inside I then laid under the boat and drilled the full sized hole.

That hose type is actually very kink resistant. I really like it. I ran out of the 3/4" vent hose and bought a different style braided hose from the local hardware store and it was not nearly as kink resistant and will collapse pretty easily.

Yeah the hose bend in the pic does show some flattening (but not kinked). That was the first time filling the bag. I was able to move the hose around a bit to improve the routing. I wish the fittings were 45* or maybe 90* but as you can see from how bad I blew my intial budget I didn't want to spring for the flo rite quick connect dealios.

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...