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oil and trany fluid change


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My 08 Bu has 45 hrs on it.

My oil/filter was changed at 25.

My service mgr told me he would not bother with changing the oil with that few hrs before I winterized if he were me.

He also said don't change the trany fluid until 100hrs. I haven't done alot of heavy towing.

What do you all think?

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My 08 Bu has 45 hrs on it.

My oil/filter was changed at 25.

My service mgr told me he would not bother with changing the oil with that few hrs before I winterized if he were me.

He also said don't change the trany fluid until 100hrs. I haven't done alot of heavy towing.

What do you all think?

If it was me I'd change the oil anyways. He's right about the tranny fluid at 100 hrs.

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I change the oil and tranny fluid during my winterization process. Oil usually gets done one other time the middle of the season as we usually put about 100 - 120 hours on a season. I go a little over the top on some things, but it's my baby! I vote - change it.

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If it was me I'd change the oil anyways. He's right about the tranny fluid at 100 hrs.

Plus1.gif The old oil will be more likely to create some "sludge" than new oil.

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My 08 Bu has 45 hrs on it.

My oil/filter was changed at 25.

My service mgr told me he would not bother with changing the oil with that few hrs before I winterized if he were me.

He also said don't change the trany fluid until 100hrs. I haven't done alot of heavy towing.

What do you all think?

Is that 45 total hours? Owners manual says after first 50 hours so you are almost there. First 50 hours is when the most wear occurs on the engine so that's when you'll have the most metal in the oil. If you don't change it now you'll just be changing it after the first time you go out next Spring,... so why not change it.

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My 08 Bu has 45 hrs on it.

My oil/filter was changed at 25.

My service mgr told me he would not bother with changing the oil with that few hrs before I winterized if he were me.

He also said don't change the trany fluid until 100hrs. I haven't done alot of heavy towing.

What do you all think?

Oops! Missed reading part of your post "My oil/filter was changed at 25". Okay so the oil only has 20 hours on it. Change it,... you'll have peace of mind.

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The Indmar manual says

Oil and Filter at first 10 - 20 hours, then every 50 for normal operation.

Transmission Fluid at first 10 - 20 hours, then every 300 or annually.

The manual also recommends an oil change as part of the winterization process, so that makes it at least annually for most of us.

I have a new 2008 (purchased April 2009), and did the oil and trans fluids at 25 hours.

I am now at about 65 total and changed the oil when winterizing.

I did not change the trans fluid but may in the spring.

If you don't have the Indmar book, i think you can download it from their site.

During the warranty period, i would not do anything less frequent than their recommendation and would worry about a dealer that recommends something less than the Indmar or Malibu book says.

Edited by Soon2BV
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The Indmar manual says

Oil and Filter at first 10 - 20 hours, then every 50 for normal operation.

Transmission Fluid at first 10 - 20 hours, then every 300 or annually.

The manual also recommends an oil change as part of the winterization process, so that makes it at least annually for most of us.

I have a new 2008 (purchased April 2009), and did the oil and trans fluids at 25 hours.

I am not at about 65 total and changed the oil when winterizing.

I did not change the trans fluid but may in the spring.

If you don't have the Indmar book, i think you can download it from their site.

During the warranty period, i would not do anything less frequent than their recommendation and would worry about a dealer that recommends something less than the Indmar or Malibu book says.

I must agree. Feel like they gave me some bad info.

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Naw they did not give you bad info. Most people on this site are very anal and almost overprotective about their equipement. For example if you let this thread run for a day or two you will probably have someone chime in saying that you must use $10 per quart pure synthetic oil or you will ruin your engine......for what its worth. Anyway you go, you'll be fine

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Soon:

Comment was not directed at you. There are a lot of people on this site that take things to the extreme. My comment was meant as a warning to to the original post. Certainly you are right, nothing wrong with following the manual.

As an example, I remember someone posting that they changed the oil during the winterize and then again during the de-winterize. This is what I mean by anal. Doing this is completely not necessary.

Realistically if he had followed the advice of the Dealer, he would never know the difference. I don't think he got bad advice from you or the dealer.

Edited by ruffdawg
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So after reading this post it has me wondering, having an ASE cerification in transmissions, if you people out there that change thier tranny oil twice a season in your boat change the same fuild in your cars and trucks that you use as a daily driver or a tower? I am looking at this as that your tranismission is a closed system meaning unless you have a seal that fails you only have your fuild and gears in the tranny so you dont have other paraticals floating around unless you have a bad gear wear.

Another comment that stood out was "Change it, as even at that amount of hours there are contaminants I wouldn't want sitting in it all winter." See in the winter your boat is sitting the transmission is not spining or roating, so the contaminants are not causing anywear. Some might say that water is there and that is causing rust, well could be ture in very extrem times were the water is greater in presnce than the oil. Pluse if your using ATF with the API seal on it, it meets requirements that make it have additives to contain water and prevent corrision.

Edited by rajkd1
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  • 3 weeks later...

I am a little late to post to this, but I have another similar question. I live in MN, but I am storing the boat in my plant which is at 70 all winter. I plan on changing the oil and Tranny fluid. I put 80 hrs on the boat this summer and it has a total of 110 hrs.

I forgot to put stable in the gas.

I didn't fog the engine.

I did not replace the impeller.

I did not change the oil.

I did not change the tranny fluid.

My plan was to do all but the fogging. the problem is I need to run the engine to get the oil warm enough to change and get the stabil into the engine. It will be very difficult to run the engine where I have it.

Am I OK waiting until spring to do the all the work except fogging, or do I run the risk of damage that I am not aware of? What should I do, or not do?

Also is the picture below the oil drain hose? it comes out from under the engine.

Thanks

post-7655-125997780394_thumb.jpg

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I forgot to put stable in the gas.

I didn't fog the engine.

I did not replace the impeller.

I did not change the oil.

I did not change the tranny fluid.

Don't worry about the Stabil. If the boat is only gonna sit for 3-4 months, I wouldn't worry about it.

You cannot fog an engine that has cats or 02 sensors.

The impeller is not a big deal either. If you want to be super-safe, replace it in the spring.

Change the oil in the spring. You don't really have to run the motor before changing the oil. All the "contaminants" that are in the oil now will be in the pan now. Use that hose you have pictured but, let that oil drain for a good, long time. Hopefully you don't have a Hammerhead engine, if you do, that's a whole 'nother story.

I wouldn't sweat the tranny fluid either. Change it with the oil in the spring.

Edited by Pistol Pete
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I do have the Hammerhead. Not sure I want to hear the news, but let me have it.

Don't worry about the Stabil. If the boat is only gonna sit for 3-4 months, I wouldn't worry about it.

You cannot fog an engine that has cats or 02 sensors.

The impeller is not a big deal either. If you want to be super-safe, replace it in the spring.

Change the oil in the spring. You don't really have to run the motor before changing the oil. All the "contaminants" that are in the oil now will be in the pan now. Use that hose you have pictured but, let that oil drain for a good, long time. Hopefully you don't have a Hammerhead engine, if you do, that's a whole 'nother story.

I wouldn't sweat the tranny fluid either. Change it with the oil in the spring.

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Don't worry about the Stabil. If the boat is only gonna sit for 3-4 months, I wouldn't worry about it.

You cannot fog an engine that has cats or 02 sensors.

The impeller is not a big deal either. If you want to be super-safe, replace it in the spring.

Change the oil in the spring. You don't really have to run the motor before changing the oil. All the "contaminants" that are in the oil now will be in the pan now. Use that hose you have pictured but, let that oil drain for a good, long time. Hopefully you don't have a Hammerhead engine, if you do, that's a whole 'nother story.

I wouldn't sweat the tranny fluid either. Change it with the oil in the spring.

Nothing wrong with that motor Pete, well maybe other than the fact that you don't have one? There were a few issues, not all, or even a large percentage had/have issues. Compared to a monsoon any engine would look problematic.

Edited by 06vlx
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I do have the Hammerhead. Not sure I want to hear the news, but let me have it.

There's nothing wrong with that motor, if you haven't had issues yet you probably never will.

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There's nothing wrong with that motor, if you haven't had issues yet you probably never will.

Thanks for all the input. I will take care of everything this winter before it hits the water.

Dave

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With regards to the oil change (on the HH)- the oil filter is very hard to access - even harder if you have a shower as you need to detach the assembly to even reach the filter. Make sure you use a short filter as the longer one are just about impossible to attach.

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With regards to the oil change (on the HH)- the oil filter is very hard to access - even harder if you have a shower as you need to detach the assembly to even reach the filter. Make sure you use a short filter as the longer one are just about impossible to attach.

I will probably order form bakes. Would they have it? is there a fuel filter on the HH?

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I would suggest an oil change prior to next season. The difference between engine contaminants and transmission contaminants is significant. Contaminants in engine oil come mainly from combustion products and raw fuel, transmission contaminants mainly from gear interaction. In addition, there is a much greater likelyhood of moisture in the pan due to the necessary venting required to allow blow by to escape, also allowing water to enter. Thus, you probably do not need to change trans fluid until you hit your 100 hour mark. If either of the fluids look dark or contaminated, I would then suggest changing prior to running the boat next year. One of the keys to draining warm oil is to have it at a viscosity that it flows easily out of the pan, paricularly with the fact that it is running through a small, long hose to drain. If you have a water faucet at your facility, you can simply use a "fake-a-lake" device to warm up the engine, then do your service. This will also be a good time for a safety check, you can observe for any loose hoses, ensure the impeller still works, listen for any issues while the boat is on a trailer and no panic would ensue.

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