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Heater Core leaks


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Out in our 04 21' this past weekend (little over 100 hours) and on Sunday noticed some nice warm water soaking the carpet near the driver's kick panel. Since the boat wasn't overheating and ran fine otherwise I assumed the heater core or lines to it were leaking (even though we weren't using it) and finished the day. Got the shop vac out afterwards.

I talked to my boat mechanic (non-Malibu affiliated) and he said he's had two other new Malibu's come into his shop with the same issue recently. Apparently the way the factory is mounting the cores it makes them susceptible to shock and is causing these failures. Some require a core replacement, depending on the damage to the nipple. I'll be splicing the hot water feed for a quick fix until I can pull the core and see what it looks like.

Just wondering if anyone else has run into this.

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curious to the current pricing from heatercraft.

I've been through 2 cores (including 1 repair) in the last 2.5 years. the first core lasted about 3.5 years. when it went out, i got a new one from heatercraft at a discount (part of their testing). it lasted until beginning of this summer. had it repaired (for $25), but it leaked again in a new place about a month ago.

none of my problems have been near the in/out take on the core. one was the seam opposite side (repairable), but the other problems were in the middle of the core itself.

I brought mine into the local auto shop and found a Napa core to match up. Cost was just $27.50 for a new one - at that rate, I won't bother with a repair again.

Only concern is material - given the water mineral content were I usually ski, I'm worried about continued corrison. Guess I need to do a better job of shutting off the water flow when not in use (I installed shut off values to/from the core in case of leaks).

I have a two outlet heater. part number for the Napa core was 660-3100 in case it helps

EDIT: I transposed the part number. corrected above. Correct number is 660-3100 (not 1300...)

Edited by Addictedto6
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I haven't had any issues with my core yet. However, given the problems people run into with them, I'm guessing it's just a matter of time.

I think that a heater core replacement how-to could help out a lot of people. Is anybody planning on replacing their's soon?

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Had the intake nipple come completely out of the core a few weeks ago. Pulled out the torch and some soder. Back on the water in alittle over an hour. Will be installing shut-off valves next spring. Seems like a great idea to limit unnecessary wear and tear (during the hot, summer months).

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I put a couple of brass Y fittings with valves in mine last year. Picked them up in the garden hose section of Lowes for just a few $$. It has a couple of additional benefits:

1. In the summer, you can use the heater fan to blow cool air when the boat's not moving.

2. You can close the heater part of the Y, open up the other side of the Y and pour RV antifreeze through the core without winterizing the engine. Useful for those <32 nights in the fall, since the core will pop way before the block could freeze.

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mlange - I'm halfway through getting my heater re-installed (core is back in, just need to reattach the hoses/wiring & remount the unit). It's pretty straight forward, just a little tight working under the dash. I'll see if I can get a couple of pics for the key points.

beef (or anyone else) - If you shut off the intake Y valve (but not the return hose), do you know if the running engine has the suction to pull the remaining water from the core?

I added shutoff values w/ a drain, but I like the idea of the Y valve approach better. I don't need to add anti-freeze (not cold enough), but would like to get rid of the corrosive water from the core when it's not in use during the summer

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Kevin,

With one side of the hose shut off, I'm sure the engine won't pull the remaining water out of the core & lines. There's simply too much vacuum without anything coming in the other end. With the Y fitting on one end, you could open the "outside" side of the incoming Y, allowing air to be pulled through the system. Since I put Y's in both ends, I can just flip both valves and blow it out.

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Kevin,

With one side of the hose shut off, I'm sure the engine won't pull the remaining water out of the core & lines.  There's simply too much vacuum without anything coming in the other end.  With the Y fitting on one end, you could open the "outside" side of the incoming Y, allowing air to be pulled through the system.  Since I put Y's in both ends, I can just flip both valves and blow it out.

thanks...time to run to Lowes Biggrin.gif

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I haven't had any issues with my core yet.  However, given the problems people run into with them, I'm guessing it's just a matter of time.

I think that a heater core replacement how-to could help out a lot of people.  Is anybody planning on replacing their's soon?

I'm doing mine now, taking pics and I'll post end of next week assuming all goes well. Just waiting for the new core. New is almost as cheap as repairing.

Edited by Pondking
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Kevin,

With one side of the hose shut off, I'm sure the engine won't pull the remaining water out of the core & lines.  There's simply too much vacuum without anything coming in the other end.  With the Y fitting on one end, you could open the "outside" side of the incoming Y, allowing air to be pulled through the system.  Since I put Y's in both ends, I can just flip both valves and blow it out.

thanks...time to run to Lowes Biggrin.gif

Just remembered I installed a T fitting with drain plug (after the valve). not as elegant as the y fitting, but I should be able to just take out the plug to get the water sucked through...

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