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MexTex

Need help changing my oil and oil filter

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MexTex

I have a 2007 Malibu VLX with an Indmar Monsoon 340 V-drive. I would like to find out how to change the oil and oil filter on the boat, if any one could please help me out I would very much appreciate it. My manual recommends that I change the oil every 50 hours, so rather than take it into the dealership twice a year, I would like to figure out how to do it myself. Thumbup.gif

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Bobby Light
I have a 2007 Malibu VLX with an Indmar Monsoon 340 V-drive. I would like to find out how to change the oil and oil filter on the boat, if any one could please help me out I would very much appreciate it. My manual recommends that I change the oil every 50 hours, so rather than take it into the dealership twice a year, I would like to figure out how to do it myself. Thumbup.gif

Monsoon oil change is cinch. HH sucks a$$, just did it last night. I absolutely need a remote oil filter.

First remove all items from both rear lockers, as well as the removable walls next to the engine.

The easiest way is to get a fake-a-lake and run it to your water intake under the boat and make sure it's secure. Hook a garden hose to it and start the boat after you turn the water on. Watch to make sure the fake-a-lake stays in place and that you have water coming out of the exhaust tips after a few seconds. Let the boat run while and reach operating temp of 160 degrees for at least a few minutes, be sure to check on the fake-a-lake perodically.

There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Make sure you have a used oil bucket to catch the draining oil, it will take a while to drain the oil out of the block. I always removed the two oil fill caps on either head to speed this up.

Jump in the Starboard side locker and proceed with the following.

Line your bilge area with papertowel or better yet oil absorbant material. Get a plastic bag or grocery sack ready under the oil filter. Get your oil filter wrench/tool and just break the oil filter loose. Remove the tool and put the bag over the filter and continue to unscrew it. You will obviously get oil in the bag so make sure it doesn't break getting oil all over the place. I always have another bag ready in the locker to put the oily material in when filter is removed. Put the new oil filter on at this point and clean up the rest of the absorbent material in the bilge.

Replace your oil drain hose where you got it after putting the cap back on. Dump your new oil in. Make sure the bow is all the way up so your engine is as level as possible. Check the new oil level. You're good to go.

Sorry for the novel and there are some good write ups on this issue, this is just how I always did it.

Edited by 06vlx

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Ndawg12

Also, you may have to add a half a quart or so next time you start the boat because the filter won't fill up until then.

And in case you have a hard time finding the drain hose it should look like this:

post-8316-1256932655_thumb.jpg

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Bobby Light
Also, you may have to add a half a quart or so next time you start the boat because the filter won't fill up until then.

And in case you have a hard time finding the drain hose it should look like this:

Good point and nice pic that should help him out.

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mcbean7

Good write up 06VLX.

I'd like to add...be careful loosening the oil filter. There's an oil pressure sensor right above the oil filter (at least this is where it's at on the HH). Careful not to break this sensor. I learned the hard way. Whistling.gif

Still kicking myself for this rookie mistake. Frustrated.gifBash.gif

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Bobby Light
Good write up 06VLX.

I'd like to add...be careful loosening the oil filter. There's an oil pressure sensor right above the oil filter (at least this is where it's at on the HH). Careful not to break this sensor. I learned the hard way. Whistling.gif

Still kicking myself for this rookie mistake. Frustrated.gifBash.gif

I didn't notice that on mine, the biggest issue is that the stringers are about 4" taller than they were on the VLX so I have to reach over+down+under the motor. Where before I could reach in and under and have plenty of room.

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Chia
Also, you may have to add a half a quart or so next time you start the boat because the filter won't fill up until then.

And in case you have a hard time finding the drain hose it should look like this:

Good point and nice pic that should help him out.

Indmar recommends filling the new filter half full of oil before spinning it on.

06vlx gave a good description on how to change your oil.

As an option, if your boat is on the water (or not), is to use a $10. drill pump to suck the oil out. connect the hose that comes from the oil pan (as pictured previously) to the "in" side of the drill pump and 'drill baby drill" (can i patent that?) the oil out into a container for disposal.

here is what the pump looks like:

417Ab1EQ8JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

and here are the fittings you will need to connect the hose from the oil pan to the pump, a hose fitting to 3/4 inch, then a 3/4 to 1/4 inch bushing.

4027143315_bb4dea69c3_b.jpg

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Bobby Light
Also, you may have to add a half a quart or so next time you start the boat because the filter won't fill up until then.

And in case you have a hard time finding the drain hose it should look like this:

Good point and nice pic that should help him out.

Indmar recommends filling the new filter half full of oil before spinning it on.

06vlx gave a good description on how to change your oil.

As an option, if your boat is on the water (or not), is to use a $10. drill pump to suck the oil out. connect the hose that comes from the oil pan (as pictured previously) to the "in" side of the drill pump and 'drill baby drill" (can i patent that?) the oil out into a container for disposal.

here is what the pump looks like:

417Ab1EQ8JL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

and here are the fittings you will need to connect the hose from the oil pan to the pump, a hose fitting to 3/4 inch, then a 3/4 to 1/4 inch bushing.

4027143315_bb4dea69c3_b.jpg

I've got one of those drill pumps but have never been able to get it to work. What's your trick?

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srab

MexTex,

IIRC, you've already added a system to run/flush your engine, so all you have to do, as above, is

let the engine warm up to operating temperature. Once there, shut her down and locate the hose

from the oil pan (attached to that giant paper-clip-looking thingy). You can either pass that hose

through the hull, as above, or you can attach a fluid exchange device (like the one made by Moeller),

by threading the suction hose of the pump down into the drain hose maybe two feet or so, and

then give the device three or four pumps. Out comes the oil, neatly collected in the reservoir,

while you can be doing other things, like 303ing the vinyl or vacuuming or whatever. You may,

periodically need to pump a couple of more times.

With the engine, and, consequently, the oil warmed, it should take less than 10 minutes to empty.

Then, you carefully remove the suction hose (I like to run it through a paper towel as I withdraw it)

and slip it into a plastic bag, all the while holding the drain hose itself in an upright position to keep oil

drops from dripping into the bilge or on the carpet. Screw the cap back on that baby and you're

done with the first stage.

I've tried several different ways to get the old oil filter off without making at least a small mess,

from using a cut-off milk carton underneath to holding a plastic bag around the filter while unscrewing

it, to puncturing holes in the filter with a Phillips screw driver to try and empty before unscrewing it.

I have not yet perfected the process. But, I'd recommend one of those oil absorbent sheets

(I get mine at West Marine) underneath. I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open. Once you've backed that filter off a couple of threads, oil will

start seeping around the top and down the sides, making the filter pretty slippery, but as long as

the "cuff" stays away from the side of the filter (preventing the oil from flowing down the outside

of the bag) you should be able to collect most of the oil inside the bag, with the filter, with

minimal mess. Then, unfold the cuff and zip-lock the top.

Pour some of your new oil into the filter to about half full, dip your finger in it and run it around the

gasket, and then screw the new filter back into place.

Then, just add the rest of the oil through the filler port on the valve cover. Check the dipstick.

Replace it and fire the engine up again. After a minute or two, shut her down again and recheck

the dipstick. Add additional oil as necessary. Then you're done.

It is possible, BTW, to suck the oil straight out of the dipstick channel with the extractor pump.

But, I wouldn't recommend doing it that way. A fellow Crew member actually had the suction tube

get lodged/snagged on something down in the dipstick channel. After pulling on it in an attempt

to dislodge the suction tube, the tip sheered off, leaving a portion of the suction tube floating in

the pan with no way to retrieve it.

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Chia
Also, you may have to add a half a quart or so next time you start the boat because the filter won't fill up until then.

And in case you have a hard time finding the drain hose it should look like this:

Good point and nice pic that should help him out.

Indmar recommends filling the new filter half full of oil before spinning it on.

06vlx gave a good description on how to change your oil.

As an option, if your boat is on the water (or not), is to use a $10. drill pump to suck the oil out. connect the hose that comes from the oil pan (as pictured previously) to the "in" side of the drill pump and 'drill baby drill" (can i patent that?) the oil out into a container for disposal.

here is what the pump looks like:

and here are the fittings you will need to connect the hose from the oil pan to the pump, a hose fitting to 3/4 inch, then a 3/4 to 1/4 inch bushing.

I've got one of those drill pumps but have never been able to get it to work. What's your trick?

rpm's, lots of them, to get it started, then however fast you want to pump. I use an 12v cordless dewalt with a fresh battery.

Is your connection to the hose from the oil pan tight, the pump can't be sucking air.

Edited by Cervelo

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Soon2BV
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

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Bobby Light
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

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Chia
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

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Bobby Light
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

Won't fit out either hole with the cap on if it has the large clip on it. Do you want to take that thing on and off?

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Chia
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

Won't fit out either hole with the cap on if it has the large clip on it. Do you want to take that thing on and off?

the clip actually doesn't come off the engine. The cap just slides off the clip, that is why it has that gap in it. The gap isn't to take the clip off the engine.

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Molarbu
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

Won't fit out either hole with the cap on if it has the large clip on it. Do you want to take that thing on and off?

the clip actually doesn't come off the engine. The cap just slides off the clip, that is why it has that gap in it. The gap isn't to take the clip off the engine.

Plus1.gif I leave the clip on the engine so I remember where the hose hooks!

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Bobby Light
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

Won't fit out either hole with the cap on if it has the large clip on it. Do you want to take that thing on and off?

the clip actually doesn't come off the engine. The cap just slides off the clip, that is why it has that gap in it. The gap isn't to take the clip off the engine.

Thanks for the clarrification looks like I've been taking an extra step for nothing, I've never even thought of leaving the clip attached.

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mcbean7
There are a couple ways to drain the oil, I prefer this way myself but others use an oil extractor pump. Under the engine in the bilge you will find a hose tapped into the oil pan and clipped to a picking eye on the engine. You will take the cap off of this and run the drain hose out the rear transom plug or your bilge drain hole with the T handle plug in it's your choice.

Just to clarify, you want to run the hose out FIRST, and then take the cap off right above the bucket.

I've also read (I think Cervelo added this tip) that

it helps, using a large zip-lock bag, to roll the top, zip-lock edge down a couple of turns to form a

cuff that helps to tent the bag open.

This is a great idea! I used part of a small plastic bowl and it was a PITA to get it under the filter, and then almost impossible to get the whole thing out without spilling. Almost makes me want to go change my oil again just to try this out ... almost :)

The hose won't fit out the hole with the cap on.

true, not out the rear transom plug, but if you run the hose out the bilge drain with the "T" handle it will, but then you have to crawl under the boat.

Won't fit out either hole with the cap on if it has the large clip on it. Do you want to take that thing on and off?

the clip actually doesn't come off the engine. The cap just slides off the clip, that is why it has that gap in it. The gap isn't to take the clip off the engine.

Thanks for the clarrification looks like I've been taking an extra step for nothing, I've never even thought of leaving the clip attached.

LOL! I learned something new today. I have been taking the clip off too. Will try leaving it on next time. Thanks for the tip.

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