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Removing Boat from trailer in garage


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Has anyone out there pulled a trailer out from under their boat? I am thining about putting my boat on stands. I want to remove bunks and clean up bunk mounts on the trailer.Then I can repaint mounting pads,or cut them off and weld new ones on.I would fab stands out of 2" square stock and 3/8" plate.Not sure about the stands. I would like some ideas or pics of some.

post-3740-0-60039600-1435349816_thumb.jp

post-3740-0-60170800-1435349831_thumb.jp

post-3740-0-98798300-1435349873_thumb.jp

Edited by pkenney
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can you go visit a large marina or sailboat yard?

There are often boats on stands sitting arounf, especially sailboats.

See what they do and ask questions.

Maybe they would even loan / rent you some stands to use.

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The stands would be the easy part, especially for a light little boat like a Sporty. How are you planning on lifting the boat up to get the trailer out from under it? :unsure:

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When I was young my Dad took our boat off the trailer in the garage to redo it. He actually used cinder blocks. He slid the trailer forward slowly putting the blocks under it (with carpet against the boat of course). I would think with the light weight of your boat this would be easily possible. Good luck.

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When I was young my Dad took our boat off the trailer in the garage to redo it. He actually used cinder blocks.

No way I'd try it with cinder blocks. No.gif Too unstable. Maybe with a little runabout with an outboard but not with an inboard. Too much stuff underneath to damage if it did slip. Cry.gif

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I'd love to do the same project. I thought about spanning the rafters in the garage with 6X6's and getting a couple really wide straps like the marina's use on boat hoists. You could then anchor the straps to the 6X6's and use come-a-longs to lift the boat off the trailer. I just don't trust the garage rafters to hold the weight of our boat. I would want to get under it and clean the boat up. I really wouldn't trust it if I was under the boat! :unsure:

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If you do pull the trailer from under the boat, you must put support under the stringers that the motor is mounted to. This is usually the spot where the inner bunks of your trailer support the boat.

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see if you can borrow or rent a trailer from your dealer and switch them at the lake/river or see if you can use someone's boat lift till you can get it done.

Another option would be to take it to someone who has a crane and will store it for you till you get your work done.

A bigger marina might have a fork lift they use to stack boats with, they would do it and charge you some storage.

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I did this a couple of years ago two do some serious welding on a trailer. I jacked up the trailer, put stand on the rear and let the trailer down to let the rear of the boat rest on jack stands. then I jacked the front of the boat up under the keel and had to keep repositioning the jack around the trailer cross members as I slowly pulled the trailer out from under the boat. I used 2x6s between the jack stands and the gel coat to prevent damage, and help spread the load on more surface area. I had 4 jack stand in the rear and one under the keel.

I think if you keep the supports close to the bunks on the trailer, you will be fine for the short time you are working on the trailer. As long as you are not storing it all winter like this, the hull will be fine.

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I did this a couple of years ago two do some serious welding on a trailer. I jacked up the trailer, put stand on the rear and let the trailer down to let the rear of the boat rest on jack stands. then I jacked the front of the boat up under the keel and had to keep repositioning the jack around the trailer cross members as I slowly pulled the trailer out from under the boat. I used 2x6s between the jack stands and the gel coat to prevent damage, and help spread the load on more surface area. I had 4 jack stand in the rear and one under the keel.

I think if you keep the supports close to the bunks on the trailer, you will be fine for the short time you are working on the trailer. As long as you are not storing it all winter like this, the hull will be fine.

I did some work on my trailer a few years ago and I went down to my dealer and they pulled my boat off of my trailer and put it on a trailer they had there for a couple of weeks. That way I had my garage to work on the trailer.

Terry

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I did this a couple of years ago two do some serious welding on a trailer. I jacked up the trailer, put stand on the rear and let the trailer down to let the rear of the boat rest on jack stands. then I jacked the front of the boat up under the keel and had to keep repositioning the jack around the trailer cross members as I slowly pulled the trailer out from under the boat. I used 2x6s between the jack stands and the gel coat to prevent damage, and help spread the load on more surface area. I had 4 jack stand in the rear and one under the keel.

I think if you keep the supports close to the bunks on the trailer, you will be fine for the short time you are working on the trailer. As long as you are not storing it all winter like this, the hull will be fine.

This is a good idea jacking the trailer not the boat.I am going to give this some serious thought.

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If you do pull the trailer from under the boat, you must put support under the stringers that the motor is mounted to. This is usually the spot where the inner bunks of your trailer support the boat.

this is not entirely true, i myself believe what your saying but, the lake i go to there are 2 ski natiques hanging by there front eyelets and back cleats. i myself would never trust my bu to this but these are not mine.

as for removing the trailer i did the same. jacked the trailer up and blocked the boat up. i used 12 foot long 8"x8". set the wooden stantion pads up on both sides of the trailer and laid the 8"x8" acrossed the tops of them and under the boat. 5 of them from front to back and then lower the trailer and repositioned everything to my liking. pulled the trailer out no problem. i spent about 100.00 setting this up but i knew it was the safest way i could figure out how to do this. if you are all like i am you value your boat to much to trust it to just anything or anyone else.

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If you do pull the trailer from under the boat, you must put support under the stringers that the motor is mounted to. This is usually the spot where the inner bunks of your trailer support the boat.

this is not entirely true, i myself believe what your saying but, the lake i go to there are 2 ski natiques hanging by there front eyelets and back cleats. i myself would never trust my bu to this but these are not mine.

as for removing the trailer i did the same. jacked the trailer up and blocked the boat up. i used 12 foot long 8"x8". set the wooden stantion pads up on both sides of the trailer and laid the 8"x8" acrossed the tops of them and under the boat. 5 of them from front to back and then lower the trailer and repositioned everything to my liking. pulled the trailer out no problem. i spent about 100.00 setting this up but i knew it was the safest way i could figure out how to do this. if you are all like i am you value your boat to much to trust it to just anything or anyone else.

How do you think your boat is lifted onto the trailer on to onto the truck for transport, into the water for water test, out of the water?--- all at the factory. If they were not put there to be used, why are they there?

Personally, I'd try to find a trailer to borrow first. Offer them a deposit or rent for the use of the trailer.. If not then I'd find some heavy cargo straps, or construction slings and rent some chain falls. What size are your rafters???

Good luck!

Edited by Faceplant409
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I wouldn't recommend using the rafters in the garage to rig up any sort of lifting system. That's exactly what I did to get the engine out of mine, and although it actually worked pretty well, the necessary hardware was surprisingly expensive. Plus, I wouldn't have trusted it for any more weight, so lifting an entire boat would have been far more than I was comfortable with. If I had it to do over again I would just take it to a marina or a mechanic with a legitimate hoisting system.

Engine Removal

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The bow eye and transom eyes are perfect for lifting points.

As a word of caution, unless you have a hoist system designed for the purpose, it's always safer to support something from under it.

Aside from the center flat section of the boat, for example behind the tracking fins in the midsection, you can support the boat just about anywhere. A 3 point support system works very well, with a front keel support, and two supports near the transom. Custom stands aren't needed, a stack of 6x6's or similar works fine.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/malibuboats/3103179762/

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You might want to check your insurance if you plan on trying to lift the boat as I wonder what they would say when you call them for repairs due to the boat falling off some jack stands in your garage. If you are going to use the structure of your house for support you should check your homeowners insurance as well, I bet they would laugh when your garage caves in. This project could get really expensive in a hurry.

I bet it will be cheaper and safer and less headache to go to the dealer, have them lift it off and store it for you why you do the work to the trailer. Or store it at the marina for a few days, a boat slip is only about 20 bucks a day.

  • Like 1
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I wouldn't recommend using the rafters in the garage to rig up any sort of lifting system. That's exactly what I did to get the engine out of mine, and although it actually worked pretty well, the necessary hardware was surprisingly expensive.

I've used a $50 chain hoist for this task & it was very easy to do. But that was for a 400 - 500 lbs engine, not a 3500 lb boat. You can get chain hoists with capacities up to several tons very inexpensively.

I think I'd just put the boat in the lake for a couple days. Even if you had to re-winterize it.... big deal, another few minutes to do that.

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I wouldn't recommend using the rafters in the garage to rig up any sort of lifting system. That's exactly what I did to get the engine out of mine, and although it actually worked pretty well, the necessary hardware was surprisingly expensive. Plus, I wouldn't have trusted it for any more weight, so lifting an entire boat would have been far more than I was comfortable with. If I had it to do over again I would just take it to a marina or a mechanic with a legitimate hoisting system.

Engine Removal

I did the same thing but didn't pull the entire engine just took the weight off the mounts to get at the rear tranny seal. I spanned 4 roof trusses with a 6X6 so the weight of the engine wasn't on 1 truss. I'm with you guys - a boat weighs waaayyyy more than just the engine. I was wanting to lift the boat to re-gelcoat where the bunks contact the boat so I couldn't use water or the dealers storage as I need the boat in the air.

post-7666-1255975835_thumb.jpg

Edited by martinarcher
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I rebuilt my trailer a couple of years back.

I used the 12 ton hydraulic bottle jacks available everywhere. I used 2x6 wood blocks as a buffer. I placed the jacks directly below the transom in the rear. On the nose I placed a jack with a wood block buffer under the keel.

I have a fleet of 4x6 blocks about 18" and 8" long that I keep around for this purpose. Pretty useful for jacking up the duramax in the winter to change the snow tires/wheels. Or blocking the travel trailer.

I have 3 of the bottle jacks because they are inexpensive. I have a couple of jack stands that I place strategically as a safety measure. I stack several of the wood blocks also to be a safety device.

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If you do pull the trailer from under the boat, you must put support under the stringers that the motor is mounted to. This is usually the spot where the inner bunks of your trailer support the boat.

this is not entirely true, i myself believe what your saying but, the lake i go to there are 2 ski natiques hanging by there front eyelets and back cleats. i myself would never trust my bu to this but these are not mine.

as for removing the trailer i did the same. jacked the trailer up and blocked the boat up. i used 12 foot long 8"x8". set the wooden stantion pads up on both sides of the trailer and laid the 8"x8" acrossed the tops of them and under the boat. 5 of them from front to back and then lower the trailer and repositioned everything to my liking. pulled the trailer out no problem. i spent about 100.00 setting this up but i knew it was the safest way i could figure out how to do this. if you are all like i am you value your boat to much to trust it to just anything or anyone else.

How do you think your boat is lifted onto the trailer on to onto the truck for transport, into the water for water test, out of the water?--- all at the factory. If they were not put there to be used, why are they there?

Personally, I'd try to find a trailer to borrow first. Offer them a deposit or rent for the use of the trailer.. If not then I'd find some heavy cargo straps, or construction slings and rent some chain falls. What size are your rafters???

Good luck!

Unless your garage rafters were specifically designed to carry that load, I would NOT plan to hang your Bu from the rafters. Unless of course you are wanting both a new boat and a new garage. Talk to your insurance guy first.

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If you do pull the trailer from under the boat, you must put support under the stringers that the motor is mounted to. This is usually the spot where the inner bunks of your trailer support the boat.

this is not entirely true, i myself believe what your saying but, the lake i go to there are 2 ski natiques hanging by there front eyelets and back cleats. i myself would never trust my bu to this but these are not mine.

as for removing the trailer i did the same. jacked the trailer up and blocked the boat up. i used 12 foot long 8"x8". set the wooden stantion pads up on both sides of the trailer and laid the 8"x8" acrossed the tops of them and under the boat. 5 of them from front to back and then lower the trailer and repositioned everything to my liking. pulled the trailer out no problem. i spent about 100.00 setting this up but i knew it was the safest way i could figure out how to do this. if you are all like i am you value your boat to much to trust it to just anything or anyone else.

How do you think your boat is lifted onto the trailer on to onto the truck for transport, into the water for water test, out of the water?--- all at the factory. If they were not put there to be used, why are they there?

Personally, I'd try to find a trailer to borrow first. Offer them a deposit or rent for the use of the trailer.. If not then I'd find some heavy cargo straps, or construction slings and rent some chain falls. What size are your rafters???

Good luck!

Unless your garage rafters were specifically designed to carry that load, I would NOT plan to hang your Bu from the rafters. Unless of course you are wanting both a new boat and a new garage. Talk to your insurance guy first.

When I built the garage I installed a 10"s I beam.I might just weld up a H spreader and sling the boat.Then pull trailer out.I will be able to just push the boat to other side on my garage. My 3ton chain fall is on a trolley.then role trailer back in garage to re work it

Edited by pkenney
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When I built the garage I installed a 10"s I beam.I might just weil up a H spreader and sling the boat.Then pull trailer out.I will be able to just push the boat to other sie on my garage. My 3ton chain fall is on a trolley.then role trailer back in garage to re work it

Drool.gif OK, now I'm jealous. That would have made the engine swap in my FJ-40 soooo much easier. Yes.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am also in need of working on my trailer but I have a two post car lift in my garage I am trying to figure out how I am going to lift my 1997 vlx up and work on the trailer If the eyelets on the transom will hold the weight that would make things very easy? I am afraid to trust just the eyelets on the back though. I am thinking a floor jack as well as the two post lift just as long as I CAN REPLACE THE support boards on the trailer I will be ok.

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I am also in need of working on my trailer but I have a two post car lift in my garage I am trying to figure out how I am going to lift my 1997 vlx up and work on the trailer If the eyelets on the transom will hold the weight that would make things very easy? I am afraid to trust just the eyelets on the back though. I am thinking a floor jack as well as the two post lift just as long as I CAN REPLACE THE support boards on the trailer I will be ok.

here is a picture from the factory

laketest3_small.jpg

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