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Raising driver's seat


Sippi

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Alright, FINALLY got it done! Ran into a snag the other day as I got it all done (bolt through the seat with nut under the track) and everything was fine except when I went to slide the seat, the bolt was a little too long but somehow slid past the bolt that holds the rail down. Then I couldn't get it back out to add washers haha. So I took a break for a few days. And found the BEST remedy! If any of you are wanting to raise the drivers seat but can't pull up the tracks, do this!!

Instead of using the bolts that I bought I went back and got 4 plain SS threaded rods. They only had 6" (5" would have been better). I put the rod down through the track, put a locking nut on there under te track to where the rod was just barely past the nut. I superglued 8 thick rubber washers to each side of the 4 pipe nipples to act as grommet. Put them over the rods, then layed the seat on top (when I started I was having to try an allign everything while keeping the pipes on there and it was frustrating. Added a couple washers and put another lock nut on top and it works great! Might cut a bit off the top or go get a 1"x5" pipe nipple and call it a day. I'll post pics with step by step just in case anybody is looking to do it in the future

All that work and you could have just pulled out a couple of throwable seat cushions to prop you up :)

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Alright, FINALLY got it done! Ran into a snag the other day as I got it all done (bolt through the seat with nut under the track) and everything was fine except when I went to slide the seat, the bolt was a little too long but somehow slid past the bolt that holds the rail down. Then I couldn't get it back out to add washers haha. So I took a break for a few days. And found the BEST remedy! If any of you are wanting to raise the drivers seat but can't pull up the tracks, do this!!

Instead of using the bolts that I bought I went back and got 4 plain SS threaded rods. They only had 6" (5" would have been better). I put the rod down through the track, put a locking nut on there under te track to where the rod was just barely past the nut. I superglued 8 thick rubber washers to each side of the 4 pipe nipples to act as grommet. Put them over the rods, then layed the seat on top (when I started I was having to try an allign everything while keeping the pipes on there and it was frustrating. Added a couple washers and put another lock nut on top and it works great! Might cut a bit off the top or go get a 1"x5" pipe nipple and call it a day. I'll post pics with step by step just in case anybody is looking to do it in the future

All that work and you could have just pulled out a couple of throwable seat cushions to prop you up :)

But if he did that then he would have to wear the orange life jackets too.

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Yea, I have been sitting on throw cushions but it's not the same. It's so much more comfortable to have the whole seat to sit on. I'll take some pics tonight and post them tonight with detailed directions. I actually tried the 4 1/2" and 5" nipples but surprisingly went back to the 4" because the others put me right in the line of the top windsheild. And higher made it awkward with the steering wheel. But I'll take some pics it was really easy once I got the bolts right. Definitely worth it!

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Garelick makes a motorized seat mount. Has front and back lifts. I changed my slide out because the stock metal slide rusted out twice. One drop of salt and there gone. I now have an aluminum mount that works great. You do have to watch the bolt pattern on the switch. I also raised my seat about an inch in the process.

Edited by srock
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Alright, here are some pics of my seat and the process. Since i couldn't pull up the tracks that the seat slides on to get the bolts under it, i had to use just a threaded rod. Put a locking nut on the bottom, washer and nut on the top side of the tracks so it would stay still, a rubber washer that's pretty big for the pipe nipples to sit on, and a regular washer on top of the nipple. put the seat on and bolted her down. I used 6" threaded rods, and 1"x4" Galvanized pipe nipples. by the way, please excuse the carpet, i hadn't vacuumed when i took the pics, but did the next day.

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Edited by Sippi
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Wow, looks like our seats are set up completely different, unless it's not fully assembled. Does yours swivel? Is there a vinyl shroud at the bottom to cover the rails? I just did mine, took me a few hours but I could do it now in an hour, damn learning curve thing! I also used 4" nipples and wrapped them with electrical tape, we'll see how long that lasts. But the seat fits me perfectly, I love the height but don't really like the look of it, seems like it needs a skirt of some kind hanging from the bottom of the seat to cover up everything, anybody got any ideas on that?

Edit-Maybe DD seats don't swivel..??

Edited by nemire12
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Our RLX is completely different. Must be the difference between US & Australian factory. Ours doesn't have the carpet plinth. It's fibreglass and has a circular plate in middle. Once removed it gives access to the nuts under the rail.

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Nemire, yea mine doesn't swivel. There wouldn't be room for it to swivel anyway. Now you see why I was havin so much trouble. I couldn't get that plate up for the life of me. But worked out good in the end. It's very sturdy and much more comfy! Did you wrap your pipe nipples in electric tape for any specific reason or just for looks? Just curious.

Still need to start a thread showing how to have tower speakers on a boat with just an extended pylon. I came up with something about two years ago and it definitely works and doesn't look bad at all. That and to show the LEDs I put all throughout the boat!

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The pipe nipples look like they worked out great. I assume that the black tape wrap is for looks. I'm thinking instead of black tape,why not use pieces of PVC pipe cut to length and slid over the nipples? Now all you see is white plastic. I'm thinking of doing this mod also. I have Response LXI. Has anyone found a good height to use for the RLXI?

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My seat slider tracks were always rusting. I drop in salt 1 to 3 times per year and it seems to distroy the tracks. I went to an alternate aluminum slide by Garlik and adjusted the height. A little more money but will last as long as the boat.

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Yes, the electrical tape was just for looks. My sliders were rusted up pretty bad also. I was able to get them freed up after hosing them down with tool inhibitor and lube, then silicone greased them up real well.

I actually took my bottom plate up as well, it had exactly 15 screws in it, not trying to show off but it only took me about 10 minutes to find all the screws, maybe mine weren't sunk as deep into the panel and carpet as the OP's. Anyways I ended up moving that panel towards the steering wheel about 2 inches or so, now I have more room behind the driver seat for my favorite cooler Whistling.gif

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This is what I did. It was a lot more work, but looks good

post-5205-1255120415_thumb.jpg

Is that a one piece casting? If so, wow!

No Not a one piece casting. I used 2 pieces of 1"X2" aluminum tubing 8" long welded together for each side.post-5205-1255476630_thumb.jpg

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