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SacRiverRat

Tightening shaft packing nut

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SacRiverRat

:blush:

... ok seriously though - my shaft drips like crazy... sometimes I couldn't really call it a drip, becuase of the flow rate (more of a stream) :unsure:

How do you get a wrench down there? Is there some special tool? Also not totally clear as to which nut is the locking one and which needs to be tightened (one is against the packing sleeve, and one is on top of that - closer to the v-drive unit)

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LS-One
:blush:

... ok seriously though - my shaft drips like crazy... sometimes I couldn't really call it a drip, becuase of the flow rate (more of a stream) :unsure:

How do you get a wrench down there?  Is there some special tool?  Also not totally clear as to which nut is the locking one and which needs to be tightened (one is against the packing sleeve, and one is on top of that - closer to the v-drive unit)

Shoot, when you find out let me know !!

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Kellyb

I know I know I know

This is what a left handed johnson rod extenders is used for....oh wait was it the bolt stretcher...oh darn I can not remember now.

Never mind I was thinking of the muffler baring that needed to be replaced.

Kelly

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NorCaliBu

Working your way up from the base of the packing gland....at the base is the chunk (6") of hose, then the bronze packing "box" (packing material inside), the first nut you come to traveling in this direction is the lock nut, then the last piece of the puzzle is the adjusting nut.

Too reduce the flow rate, first loosen the lock nut (the thinner one) to allow the adjusting nut to turn. Then tighten the adjusting nut until the desired rip rate of 1 drip every 10 seconds or so is achieved. Obviously you have to do this while on the water. Do not forget to retighten the locking nut once you have made your adjustments to the adj nut. Be sure to hold the adj nut with one wrench while tightening the lock nut against it with another or the adjustment will be lost.

Troy, if nothing else, I'll bring my tools on the 14th and do it for you. :)

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RTS

While adjusting my shaft packing, I found there to be a very fine line between the desired drip or two every ten seconds, and having the nut tight enough for the shaft and nut to heat up. It should run cool. Like Norcalibu said, this is an adjustment that simply must be performed ON THE WATER, and after you have the drip rate you want, touch the packing nut to make sure its not heating up while the shaft is spinning. (In gear, AT IDLE, please) If it is, back it off ever so slightly until it runs cool.

I keep two "monkey wrenches" in the boat dedicated to this adjustment, and it is one of the first things I check after idling away from the dock (making sure the packing nut is not heating up)

Edited by rts

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Pistol Pete

Troy,

You need two of these. Keep them on the boat all the time because you never know when you gotta help a brotha' out on the water.

Pete USA.gif

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bigD

Shoot, when you find out let me know !!

I laugh every time this comes up, That damn thing still dripping on my boat maybe you can try it again this year mark, I still have jeffs channel locks :)

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Sunsetter95

Exactly Pistol Pete! Thumbup.gif

That is the perfect tool for a large plumbing job involving two nuts.

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SacRiverRat

Michael - owning a DD it probably seems like an easy task, on the V-Drive, it is located in a crapy spot, with the transmission right over the nuts, and at the very lowest point deep in the V-Drive engine compartment (behind the seats etc..) I just need to get down there and do it. - nothing like watching water flow into the boat when you put it in the water.. makes a guy nervous leaving it for multiple days :unsure:

Pete - that for sure looks like the right tool for the job... I'll have to look for some of those. Oh and I'm expecting you to come on May 14 Rockon.gif

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obski

Mine was dripping (flowing) in too fast at the beginning of the season. The bilge pump did its job except for the time I left the blower on. I came by to check on the boat only to find a dead battery and water filling the bilge and starting to creep onto the carpet. This was on a Sunday afternoon. I ran up to Costco, bought a new deep cycle battery, and swapped it in. The bilge kicked on with the juice and the boat didn't sink.

The problem was solved after I had to have the drive shaft replaced, so I never did have it adjusted myself.

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skicrazy

On a DD, is the lock nut closer to the engine?

Mine's dripping 1drip/sec after running around the lake a bit. It usually slows down if the boat has been sitting around. Does this sound like an adjustment is necessary?

Thanks.

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NorCaliBu
1) On a DD, is the lock nut closer to the engine? 

2)Mine's dripping 1drip/sec after running around the lake a bit.  It usually slows down if the boat has been sitting around.  Does this sound like an adjustment is necessary?

1) No. As you go down the shaft from the transmission towards the packing gland, the first nut (the one on "top") is the adjusting nut. The skinnier one just below it is the lock nut.

2)How long does it continue to drip at the faster rate? If only for a few minutes, I wouldn't worry about it. If for several hours, I'd tighten it a tiny bit. On a DD the adjustment is pretty easy.

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skicrazy

Thanks for the help. Next time I'm on the water, I'll take a look at the rate more closely.

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actionadd

This is something I've needed to do sence last year, my drips are holding hands on the way down into the bildge.

Does anyone know the size of the nuts?

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WakeAndSno
This is something I've needed to do sence last year, my drips are holding hands on the way down into the bildge.

Does anyone know the size of the nuts?

The nuts are pretty big. (Wow, that didn't come out right... ) You definitely need two of these recommended slip-nut wreches...

JZ

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VinRLX

Double check the size then look in the plumbing section. I've heard guys talk about using thin basin wrenches--fairly cheap too.

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