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Trailer problem


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I have an Extreme tandem trailer. Recently I broke the safety cable (I was such a moron! I unhooked the trailer from hitch and pulled away. I didn't realize/see the safety cable was looped around the hitch ball. Snap...there it goes.) :Doh:Cry.gif

I had to take the brake assembly apart to replace the cable. I got everything back together and thought all was good. It turns out when I go to reverse, it locks up the brakes. This happens immediately when the boat is off the trailer. When the boat is on the trailer, if I back up slowly I can go in reverse without the brakes locking up. But when there's a little hill or when backing into my driveway (slight incline) it locks the brakes up.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?

Thanks in advance.

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If you have hydraulic brakes, there is an electrical lockout on the brakes that keeps them from engaging when you back up. It is driven by the back-up light lower in the connector and powers a lockout solenoid.

Did you leave a wire disconnected when you reassembled?

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Broke mine the same way a couple of years ago. I guess I should fix it someday.:blush:

Maybe it's because my trailer is older but I have a manual pin that fits into a groove that prevents the brakes from engaging while backing. I use a magnet to hold it in place.

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06vlx Posted Yesterday, 09:37 PM

Did you push the brake release pin back in under the actuator yet?

Extend the actuator prior to pushing the release lever. What brand and model acutator and does it have the electric revers cutout soenoid?

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Broke mine the same way a couple of years ago. I guess I should fix it someday.:blush:

Maybe it's because my trailer is older but I have a manual pin that fits into a groove that prevents the brakes from engaging while backing. I use a magnet to hold it in place.

Good idea. I used to do something like that. I have a 4 prong trailer plug on my vehicle and 5 prong on the trailer. I simply unplug the wiring harness then plug the one for lights into the one for brakes only when backing up. Works like a charm.

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I did the same thing. The instructions on the UFP site shows to reset the actuator with a screwdriver on the bottom of the trailer hitch.

I haven't tried it yet.

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Did you push the brake release pin back in under the actuator yet?

Yes, I did do this after assembling the actuator. Just to clarify, in the manual, they call this the pushrod release bracket, right? It's the only thing I can see that can be pushed under the actuator.

After assembly, I pushed up on this pushrod release bracket, then stuck a screwdriver in and worked the pushrod a few times to make sure it was moving freely.

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06vlx Posted Yesterday, 09:37 PM

Did you push the brake release pin back in under the actuator yet?

Extend the actuator prior to pushing the release lever. What brand and model acutator and does it have the electric revers cutout soenoid?

I have the UFP A-60 actuator. Yes it does have the reverse solenoid.

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I don't have an answer for you J, but I've done that before on another trailer. I felt like such a dumb@ss, now whenever I tow any trailer I check it several times before I pull away from it. It's sort of like leaving the plug out - you only do it once. :lol:

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Well, I rechecked the wiring to make sure all contacts are tight. I rewired the blue wire just to make sure it's not loose there. I did a test run and was able to reverse it back into the driveway without the brakes locking up. Yahoo.gifClap.gif

I'll take it down to the lake today and unload the trailer to see if it will back up without boat on trailer. If it does, then I'll conclude the problem was a bad wiring job. If the problem continues I'll keep chasing.

Thank you all for your help!

As always, you guys rock!! Rockon.gif

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Sounds like you found your problem. an easy way to check that the reverse light circuit is activating the cut out solenoid, Have someone depress the brake pedal in the tow vehicle, and place in reverse. plug and unplug the wiring harness. You should hear a clicking sound from within the coupler if the solenoid is activating.

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I thought I solved my problem. When the trailer is loaded with boat I can back it without locking up the brakes. But when the trailer is emtpy, the brakes lock up when I reverse. Dontknow.gif HUH?

Skier92, I tried your advice and I don't hear any clicking. I guess the solenoid is bad or not working? Can I replace just the solenoid? If yes, would any trailer shop have this part?

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The loaded vs unloaded is likely the additional friction in the actuator caused by the load of the boat. Without the boat, the actuator moves in & out easier than with the boat on the trailer.

Could also be wiring issue with solenoid. You can test wiring on vehicle between far outside plugs to make sure you're getting +12V when in reverse.

You can also check solenoid by applying +12v to connection & make sure you hear it clicking. Some others have had issues with the ground from the solenoid to the trailer in the past.

Color guide:

white - ground

brown - parking/marker lights (useful for getting +12V for testing).

yellow - left stop/turn

green - right stop/turn

blue - reverse or aux power

You should be able to replace just the solenoid, but will likely have to find a UFP repair shop to get one.

Edit - IIRC - a nickel in the slot on the side of the actuator (held in by some tape) can work to allow backing up in a pinch.

Edited by wienrdog
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Just had the same issue with my UFP-60 accuator. I called UFP and explained the situation and they mailed me a new solenoid under warranty (3 year I believe) and I put it on and has worked great since.

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UFP also sent me a new solenoid free of charge in my fourth year of use. Good company to have to deal with. My trailer always locked up brakes when towing empty and they said the new solenoids are valved different.

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Well, as it turns out, I had a bad connection (again) and was not getting any power to the solenoid. I ended up rewiring the harness (for the third time) using watertight connectors and heat shrink wrapping. The test run last night worked perfectly. I could back the trailer up loaded or unloaded, on flat or inclined terrain. Yahoo.gifClap.gif

My lesson from this experience...take the time to do a good wiring job and use the right connectors!! Whistling.gif

Thank you to all for your help and advice on this!

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Glad you got is up and running.

My only advice would be since this problem started with a pull of the breakaway cable, just feel the hubs on your trailer regularly over the next couple tows just to be sure they are not abnormally hot. This will let you know your brakes are fully releasing while you are going forward, and that you got the actuator reset properly.

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rts, thanks for the advice about keeping an eye on the brakes. I have been feeling the hubs to see if they are hot. The only problem is it's 104-105 degrees here and anything metal is hotter than heck! I can't tell whether it's hot from sun exposure or brakes rubbing. LOL

I'll continue to keep an eye out for this but so far everything feels like it did prior to the cable break.

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Trust me...you'll know if they are heating up due to the brakes scrubbing. It happened to me and my first clue was the fire (not smoke...actual flames) coming from the wheels. I guess they had heated up enough for grease to escape, and that grease caught on fire. I pulled over to the side of the road on an interstate highway and put the fire out with my extinguisher. Made a pretty good mess.

Sounds like you are in good shape, though.

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Trust me...you'll know if they are heating up due to the brakes scrubbing. It happened to me and my first clue was the fire (not smoke...actual flames) coming from the wheels. I guess they had heated up enough for grease to escape, and that grease caught on fire. I pulled over to the side of the road on an interstate highway and put the fire out with my extinguisher. Made a pretty good mess.

Sounds like you are in good shape, though.

Holy cow! My hubs have been hot...but not that hot! I have been sniffing around too at gas stops and at the dock to see if I can smell anything burning...so far so good.

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