Wiring of old rotary style switches

[cla10beck]

I have been searching the site and found a lot of info, but nothing that specifically answered my question. So here it is.

I am in the process of adding a ballast system, and I wanted the system to look as stock as possible so I am going to utilize the unused acc switches on my dash.

I ordered these replacement switches http://www.marineengine.com/products/acces....php?in=1907873 , but have a couple of questions about how to wire them.

The old switches are on/off and have 4 connections: 12v power, ground, illumination source (I assume), and one pole was unused.

The new switches are on/off/on with the same 12v power, ground, illumination, and two open poles for my pumps. I can see where the 12v power comes from the fuse block, and I can see where the ground wires go to the ground block.

My question is how should I wire my pumps. I was thinking I should have the negative tap into the ground block, and the positive onto the unsed pole, but when I put my multimeter on those with the switch on, i never saw any voltage. So now I'm stuck, can anybody tell me how to wire this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Clay

[cla10beck]

Here is the wiring diagram I found

http://ww2.sierramarine.com/sierra/catalog...mp;item=MP78730

What you don't see is two connections that are attached with are the illumination wiring (blue) and the ground (black) to another part of the switch.

So based on this, I have the 12 v power (Orange) connected to B1, so I think that I should connect the positive from the pump to L1, and the negative to the ground bus. and the same for L2. But I when I use the tester, I don't show any voltage from L1 to ground bus.

Edited August 10, 2009 by cla10beck

[skicrave]

What type of pumps are you using, aerator or impeller?

[wienrdog]

Start at the beginning...

Do you have +12V between orange wire & ground bar?

Do you have a continuity tester?

Can you test for connection between B1 + L1, B1 + L2 as you turn switch back & forth?

If you have +12v @ orange wire, then you can use test light.

The blue & black wires should be for the illumination only & not affect switch functionality.

You should run L1 to first pump + & first pump - to ground bus.

You should run L2 to second pump + and second pump = to ground bus.

Good luck.

[MalibuTime]

Here is the wiring diagram I found

http://ww2.sierramarine.com/sierra/catalog...mp;item=MP78730

What you don't see is two connections that are attached with are the illumination wiring (blue) and the ground (black) to another part of the switch.

So based on this, I have the 12 v power (Orange) connected to B1, so I think that I should connect the positive from the pump to L1, and the negative to the ground bus. and the same for L2. But I when I use the tester, I don't show any voltage from L1 to ground bus.

If you have 12v to L2, and not to L1, then I would say you have a bad switch. Double check that B1 to ground bus is showing 12v to make sure your fused 12v hot lead is working. Maybe you torched the fuse or...? (obviously if you have 12v to L2 then you don't need to test B1, but I am unclear exactly what you have eliminated so far)

Edited September 16, 2009 by MalibuTime

[cla10beck]

Thanks for all the help, I should have replied earlier that I figured out my problem. Everything is working fine when I measure my voltage from the positive of the switch to the buss bar.

My issue was with my multimeter. I was using it to test resistence and didn't move the probe back to voltage plug, so the multimeter wouldn't measure the voltage. (pretty bad, huh). Once I figured that out, everything made sense

My plan is to use reversible impeller pumps. The reversible pump has a positive and a negative line. I will take the positive line and split is between the (-) and the L1. Then I will take the negative line and split it between (-) and L2. Hopefully that will give me forward pumping when I switch to L1, and reverse pumping when I switch to L2.

Thanks for the help

[skicrave]

Make sure you use your switch to trigger a relay if you're using impeller pumps, current draw can spike towards 30A on start up with those pumps.

[cla10beck]

Thanks,

I was assuming a 20A fuse and switch would work.

Now, here is my next question. I started thinking about how I would add a relay, and considered the two options. I could use two SPST relays for each switch, or I could use a DPDT switch. I was trying to figure out how to wire the DPDT to my SPDT switch, and it seems the SPST relay would be much simpler.

Can I wire the power from the battery to the relays in series to all 4 of my relays? And what is the best pisitive Wire to use to power my relays. I wasn't expecting to run a line all the way to the battery, just wanted to splice into a dedicated battery line. How have you guys done it.

[skicrave]

SPST relays will be the easiest, but will entail more components (obviously).

You wouldn't want to run your power in series, but you can take the power for all of the relays from the distribution block already under the dash. Just make sure you fuse things appropriately.