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Douge

Heater bypass question

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Douge

I have a leaking core in my heater and opted to install brass ball valves in line and just keep them closed until I can address the actual prob. My question is, should I recirculate the water or it ok to just shut off the supply so nothings going or coming back?

I don't know if it will disrupt the coolant flow if I completely block it like I did. Would just take a second to bypass the water from outlet to return, let me know if this is necessary.

Thanks,

Doug

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Big Mac

You can just detach the two hoses at the heater core and connect them with a short piece of 5/8 pipe or a double-barbed nylon fitting. It won't affect water flow to your engine.

Usually, if there is a valve on the lines, there's only one, and closing it doesn't necessarily stop flow entirely and you still get some leakage from the core. At least, that was my experience when my heater core went.

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Baddog

I carry a spare length of hose and if the core leaks I disconnect both hoses to the heater and connect the spare hose from the supply to the return fittings on the engine.

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skienterprise
I carry a spare length of hose and if the core leaks I disconnect both hoses to the heater and connect the spare hose from the supply to the return fittings on the engine.

I just want to bypass my heater that is leaking. Are the supply and return hoses to the heater located just above the raw water intake and return going into the main hose next to the thermostat? Do I just take a short hose directly from the intake to the return?

Thanks

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Addictedto6

There's no need to have water flowing through when you are not using the heater.

I put valves in both lines to shut off flow to the core (either due to a leak or in the summer when I don't use the heater at all). I also have drain plugs on the heater side of the valve so I can drain the core when not using it - presumably prolonging the core life.

Others have used quick disconnect fittings which might be a better approach.

Edited by Addictedto6

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Addictedto6
I carry a spare length of hose and if the core leaks I disconnect both hoses to the heater and connect the spare hose from the supply to the return fittings on the engine.

I just want to bypass my heater that is leaking. Are the supply and return hoses to the heater located just above the raw water intake and return going into the main hose next to the thermostat? Do I just take a short hose directly from the intake to the return?

Thanks

Easiest way to do it in the short term is probably pull the hoses off at the core and attach them together. Also, do a search on "heater" in the post titles and you'll find all types of useful info in many heater threads.

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Baddog
I carry a spare length of hose and if the core leaks I disconnect both hoses to the heater and connect the spare hose from the supply to the return fittings on the engine.

I just want to bypass my heater that is leaking. Are the supply and return hoses to the heater located just above the raw water intake and return going into the main hose next to the thermostat? Do I just take a short hose directly from the intake to the return?

Thanks

Easiest way to do it in the short term is probably pull the hoses off at the core and attach them together. Also, do a search on "heater" in the post titles and you'll find all types of useful info in many heater threads.

Maybe on yours but on mine I have to remove the heater core from the "firewall" to be able to unhook the hoses. Much easier to do that at the engine side.

Addicted, do you have photos of your set-up? I might like to do that.

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kiley
I carry a spare length of hose and if the core leaks I disconnect both hoses to the heater and connect the spare hose from the supply to the return fittings on the engine.

I just want to bypass my heater that is leaking. Are the supply and return hoses to the heater located just above the raw water intake and return going into the main hose next to the thermostat? Do I just take a short hose directly from the intake to the return?

Thanks

Easiest way to do it in the short term is probably pull the hoses off at the core and attach them together. Also, do a search on "heater" in the post titles and you'll find all types of useful info in many heater threads.

Maybe on yours but on mine I have to remove the heater core from the "firewall" to be able to unhook the hoses. Much easier to do that at the engine side.

Addicted, do you have photos of your set-up? I might like to do that.

When I set mine up I put garden hose fittings in line on both the supply and return lines. I set them up so that if I get a leak I can undo them and screw them together and bypass the heater. It also makes it easier to drain in the winter.

I can also use the return side to feed the engine water since my "Y" adapter is before the raw water pump and I have a brass shutoff at the thru-hull. I have a cap that will fit on the line out of the intake manifold so the engine is sealed.

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Addictedto6
Maybe on yours but on mine I have to remove the heater core from the "firewall" to be able to unhook the hoses. Much easier to do that at the engine side.

Addicted, do you have photos of your set-up? I might like to do that.

Baddog, was out at the lake today and looked at my engine. I agree, if you have the parts to do the bypass at the engine it's much easier than under the driver seat at the heater. If it's bad leak in the core, and you don't have parts, you can always disconnect the hoses from the core and fold them over.

Here's the picture of my setup. If I were to do it again, I would probably go with the garden hose disconnects (setup so you connect them back together and then the heater side drains). I really like the shut off valves, but the T fitting that I use to drain is a little bit of a pain....No slack in the hose to bring it up out of the engine compartment, which means it's more difficult for me to get down there and blow the air out when I shut off the values.

post-129-1252533610_thumb.jpg

Edited by Addictedto6

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wienrdog

Nice setup...

Why not build a threaded extension hose to help during the blow-out?

Edited by wienrdog

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Addictedto6
Nice setup...

Why not build a threaded extension hose to help during the blow-out?

Great idea! Home depot trip Friday!!!

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Baddog
Maybe on yours but on mine I have to remove the heater core from the "firewall" to be able to unhook the hoses. Much easier to do that at the engine side.

Addicted, do you have photos of your set-up? I might like to do that.

Baddog, was out at the lake today and looked at my engine. I agree, if you have the parts to do the bypass at the engine it's much easier than under the driver seat at the heater. If it's bad leak in the core, and you don't have parts, you can always disconnect the hoses from the core and fold them over.

Here's the picture of my setup. If I were to do it again, I would probably go with the garden hose disconnects (setup so you connect them back together and then the heater side drains). I really like the shut off valves, but the T fitting that I use to drain is a little bit of a pain....No slack in the hose to bring it up out of the engine compartment, which means it's more difficult for me to get down there and blow the air out when I shut off the values.

post-129-1252533610_thumb.jpg

Thanks 6. I really like the idea. Appreciate the photo.

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SunriseH2OSkier

You might check out this article in the Resources/DIY section of the site for additional pics. Since I did that mod, I've added a quick connect and shutoff valve in the return line that allows for the bypass function if needed.

Edited by SunriseH2OSkier

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