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wet carper, why?


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Since this forum is awseome i thought one of you could point me in the right direction. Today I noticed the carpet around the drivers left foot becoming wet and saturated. When I tried to follow the path of the water it was coming from the bow (right corner where the carpet meets the side of the bow).

The boat did not take any water on over the bow and had only been pulling riders for about 1 to 2 hours. The boat was out a couple of days prior and no water had been in that location, so this is a new thing.

The boat has not hit anything and no damage is noted anywhere.

Any ideas where I can start looking for a problem for where the water is coming from?

Boat does have ballast tanks, can that be a source?

Thanks for your input... :thankyou:

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Is it warm & wet?

Heater core has popped. Possibly from a spring freeze? Or a degraded hose? Many times it's located in the driver's side dash.

Funny you say that, because the last time I took the boat out I turned the heater on for the first time to see if it worked, which it did. Since I have never used it before, I just turned it on then off after about 30seconds.

Is it a simple fix? I'm at work right now, so can't go look, but can you explain what to look for, etc., or is it more complicated that that?

Thanks... Thumbup.gif

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It's a bit more detailed than just changing spark plugs. And many times the heater is a dealer installed item so it isn't always the same. But typically there is a false wall or sub woofer that will be at the driver's feet that needs to be removed. I've done two of these & there were several screws in the carpet to hunt for & remove, most along the floor & the wall on the left. Behind that wall or sub, mounted up high is a metal box with 2 hoses, a fan & some wires. Check the hoses condition & remove the clamp & hose. If the hoses are in good shape, then keep going. I suppose it's possible that the ends of the hoses can be cut back a bit, then remounted & the problem will go away. I've never been that lucky in a boat though.

Then unscrew the metal box from the back wall. You might have to cut the wires & reconnect them back together later. Remember to disconnect the batteries before cutting those wires.

Once you have the metal box out, you can remove the end panel & get the core out. It will probably be pretty obvious if it's leaking at this point. You can have it repaired at any radiator repair shop. Or take it in to your neighborhood Napa Auto parts type store (that has a good inventory). Have them cross reference your old core for a new one. As I recall it's like a 1990 Mustang core & will cost like $20.

The whole job takes maybe an hour (or a couple of beers) if you can handle a screw driver at all & can shoehorn yourself under the dash without too much trouble.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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I'll give it a go this weekend, it doesn't sound to bad. Everything you stated makes sense, and I already have seen the heater box you were talking about. Cheers.gif

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Is it warm & wet?

Heater core has popped. Possibly from a spring freeze? Or a degraded hose? Many times it's located in the driver's side dash.

And here I was waiting for the joke about someone peeing in the boat. ROFL.gif

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It is probably the heater core. Just make sure that is it before replacing it. Another possibility is water leaking around the rub rail, deck hull joint. My last boat had sealant that would go bad and when water splashed up under the rail it would leak in. One other place to check is Bow Eye. If loose it will let water in too. that is probably too far from your leak though.

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Before you replace the heater core get a male to male connection and connect the two lines going into the heater core together creating a loop. Go out for the day and if there is no water leaking then the heater core is your problem if this does not fix the problem then you know it is not the heater core. Move to the next thing possibly your front ballast tank.

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I had the same problem yesterday. I must have a completely disconnected hose or major failure in the core as it was pouring water and or course the higher the engine speed the more it came out. Thanks for the info on the core, I was just going to bypass it, but sounds like it would be pretty easy to repair it.

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