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getting hot, bogging down


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I have a 2001 sunsetter. The boat is getting hot at higher RPMs 3000+. Then when I idle down it cools back down to 155 degrees? I put a new impeller & thermastate. The boat also bogs down dropping the RPMs. If I try to accelerate it will just bog down. I have to turn the motor off and restart it in order for it to run normal. But the problem only takes a few minutes to come back. Hopefully someone out there can help me out. Not sure where to go from here.

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I have a 2001 sunsetter. The boat is getting hot at higher RPMs 3000+. Then when I idle down it cools back down to 155 degrees? I put a new impeller & thermastate. The boat also bogs down dropping the RPMs. If I try to accelerate it will just bog down. I have to turn the motor off and restart it in order for it to run normal. But the problem only takes a few minutes to come back. Hopefully someone out there can help me out. Not sure where to go from here.

was your old impeller missing any vanes, and is your thermostat in the correct heat range?

Edited by footnlongline
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Footnlongline is on the correct track asking if the old impeller was missing any vanes. Debris in the cooling system (broken off impeller vanes, leaves, seeweed,etc... will prevent proper cooling) Even if the old impeller was not missing vanes, pull the hose between the raw water pump and the trans oil cooler out of the boat and flush out to verify there is no debris in the hose (it must be removed due to low bend in hose) Prior to re-installing, check for debris in bottom of trans oil cooler. This can be done by reaching in with one finger. The best method is to remove the top hose and flush out with water from garden hose. Remove intake hose from raw water pump and flush out. Prior to re-installing hoses to pump, check for debris in either port. Less likely but possible, a collapsed interior of flex hose on exhaust. One exhaust manifold hotter than the other or less water coming out one exhaust port than the other can be indicators. The bogging down your describing may be the engine going into limp mode. How hot is the engine getting at 3000 RPM? What engine? Carb Or EFI? Note, I had a high heat code that would not erase from ECM even after new cooling issue was corrected. But would run fine at any speed and then intermittently go into limp mode. Re-start engine, it'd be fine till next intermittent. Had to have code erased with diagnostic equipment.

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Footnlongline is on the correct track asking if the old impeller was missing any vanes. Debris in the cooling system (broken off impeller vanes, leaves, seeweed,etc... will prevent proper cooling) Even if the old impeller was not missing vanes, pull the hose between the raw water pump and the trans oil cooler out of the boat and flush out to verify there is no debris in the hose (it must be removed due to low bend in hose) Prior to re-installing, check for debris in bottom of trans oil cooler. This can be done by reaching in with one finger. The best method is to remove the top hose and flush out with water from garden hose. Remove intake hose from raw water pump and flush out. Prior to re-installing hoses to pump, check for debris in either port. Less likely but possible, a collapsed interior of flex hose on exhaust. One exhaust manifold hotter than the other or less water coming out one exhaust port than the other can be indicators. The bogging down your describing may be the engine going into limp mode. How hot is the engine getting at 3000 RPM? What engine? Carb Or EFI? Note, I had a high heat code that would not erase from ECM even after new cooling issue was corrected. But would run fine at any speed and then intermittently go into limp mode. Re-start engine, it'd be fine till next intermittent. Had to have code erased with diagnostic equipment.

The boat has a 325hp Indmar, EFI. Temp goes up to 190-200. No alarms or warnings sound off even when the boat bogs down? I will remove and check the hoses as described.

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