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SMP Trailer


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Looking to do two modifications to my tandem axle SMP trailer:

1. As previously posted, I need to add a swing-away tongue. Looks like Pivit Hitch is the way to go. They offer a self-install kit, so no welding is required. Because of the design of the SMP trailer, I will still have almost 8 inches of trailer tongue past the nose of the boat. Not real happy about that. See pic below. I’d be interested to see pics of anyone else’s RLXi/SMP set-up w/ a swing-away tongue to see if there is another way to tackle this.

IM003508.jpg

2. I have also run into problems loading the boat on steeper ramps. The nose of the boat many times comes in much lower than the top bow roller. Talked to the folks at SMP about this. They assured me that the newer trailers have been modified so this is no longer an issue. I am considering adding a keel roller midway between the existing lower bow roller and the front of the bunks…thinking that it will keep the nose of the boat up as it comes up on the trailer. Has anyone made any modifications to their trailer for this problem?

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Have SMP send some pics of a new trailer with the modification...maybe the local trailer shop can do the mod. I don't think the add'l roller is going to help. Don't put the trailer so deep in the water and you'll keep the boat nose above the roller. Maybe look into the spray lube for the trailer bunks to help the boat slide up easier?

If all else fails, see a doctor and get rid of it.

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I had the same problem with my single axle SMP trailer. The bow would always be lower than the bow roller. I was putting people on the swim platform to raise the bow over the bow roller at loading.

It turns out that I was loading incorrectly.

The Malibu dealer taught me to back the trailer into the water so that the bunk carpet gets soaked. Then I pull the trailer out of the water so that the tops of the wheel fenders are just out of the water. Then I power the boat up in a nice controlled manner using the winch to snug the boat onto the bow roller.

The bunks raise the bow so that the bow is over the bow roller. The boat self centers on the bunks. The boat rests nicely on the bow and hull rollers on the SMP trailer.

So far I have not noticed wear on the bunks or boat hull.

One thing I did was to replace the bow roller with a softer urethane bow roller which will not scuff the hull.

I hope this helps.

John

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Looking to do two modifications to my tandem axle SMP trailer:

1. As previously posted, I need to add a swing-away tongue.  Looks like Pivit Hitch is the way to go.  They offer a self-install kit, so no welding is required.  Because of the design of the SMP trailer, I will still have almost 8 inches of trailer tongue past the nose of the boat.  Not real happy about that.  See pic below.  I’d be interested to see pics of anyone else’s RLXi/SMP set-up w/ a swing-away tongue to see if there is another way to tackle this.

IM003508.jpg

2. I have also run into problems loading the boat on steeper ramps.  The nose of the boat many times comes in much lower than the top bow roller.  Talked to the folks at SMP about this.  They assured me that the newer trailers have been modified so this is no longer an issue.  I am considering adding a keel roller midway between the existing lower bow roller and the front of the bunks…thinking that it will keep the nose of the boat up as it comes up on the trailer.  Has anyone made any modifications to their trailer for this problem?

First off, I've got to say that I love your new avatar. My car is one that you have to put super in & I find myself saying that very thing. :lol:

Sounds like the others can help more with your issue of loading the boat. It looks like in the picture that you posted that the winch tower is really far forward on the tongue. I'm assuming that you are thinking to install the pivot ahead of it (toward the tongue) so that you don't have to detach the winch strap each time you want to use the pivot?

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Thanks for the comments. I will be picking up a bottle of liquid rollers before the weekend. Since Mrs. Thumbs is just learning to put the boat on the trailer, I need to have as many things going in my favor as possible. She doesn't want to be the subject of any posts re: wives on the boat ramp.

As for the tongue, I'd rather have the swing-away just under the nose of the boat as that would allow me to back the trailer straight into the garage. Otherwise, I will need to put the trailer in the garage at an angle...and give up more garage space.

I am checking with SMP, but I don't know if it has to be in front of the winch. My initial thought is that I would only use the swing-away on a level surface and (presumably) the winch is not actually holding the boat in place. But I don't know what an engineer would say about that set-up.

Edited by 2 ThumbsUp
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I had the same kind of design on the trailer for my Glastron a couple years ago. I wanted a removeable tongue so the dealer had his local welder cut the winch loose, move it back in front of the bow stop and add a removeable tongue. All of that was only $100 or so. Having a good trailer welder locally move that winch back shouldn't be a big deal at all. It'll monkey with your paint some of course.

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I have the same trailer and was thinking of doing the same until I realized it fit in the garage as is (I guessed at 27' garage when the house was being built...good guess). Anyway, in your picture I would think you could have someone cut off the existing winch post and weld in a new tube section where the black triangle piece is or maybe even slightly behind that. It would have to be at a greater forward angle than it currently is to get the winch out in front of the bow stop but should allow enough room for the swing away tongue to work. You'd definitely have to get it repainted when you're done.

As for the bow during trailering, we back ours in until the water line is half way up the fender (rear half of fender underwater, front half out of the water). This works pretty well for the ramps at our state park here which are pretty steep.

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From the picture and what your wanting to accomplish you will have to move the Winch post back like BBeakley suggested. That will give you the room you need to add the pivot hitch.

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You don't have to worry about moving the winch post. I have an SMP trailer for my SLXi and had the exact same issue with my garage. I had ordered the swing-away tongue when I ordered by boat, but the dealer forgot to put it on the order. He later had the trailer modified at a local shop and it works fine. I do wish they had used the pivot hitch, though. They didn't. They just cut the tubing right behind the winch tower and welded additional tubing to the neck of the trailer so it can be pinned to the main tube. I have to loosen the winch strap every time I have to "shorten" the trailer, but all of that takes less than a minute to do. I don't have any pics of the setup and the boat is 75 miles away right now, so I can't get you anything right away. Trust me, though, you can install (or pay someone else to install) a Pivot Hitch and get just what you want. I looked over the Pivot Hitch stuff (after the mod had already been done to mine) and I wish I had known about that and gone that route.

Edited by billb
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I found something that may give you a little clue about what these guys did. Inside the red circle on the attached pic you'll notice the two pins and the crank for the front wheel on the trailer. Let me know if this needs more explanation.

gallery_372_107_37667.jpg

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Hey, 2Thumbs, do you still want to see pics of my trailer? I brought my boat home for Fall tonight, so she now sleeps less than fifty feet away. I can take some pics if you're still interested.

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Thanks for the offer. After removing a set of shelves, I still will not be able to get it to fit straight in my garage...so I am passing on adding the swing-away tongue.

If my garage was only 6 inches deeper.....

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Thanks for the offer.  After removing a set of shelves, I still will not be able to get it to fit straight in my garage...so I am passing on adding the swing-away tongue.

If my garage was only 6 inches deeper.....

Back it in a little faster - should be able to gain 6 inches. Biggrin.gif

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Garage backs-up to two other finished rooms in the house. Wife not real excited about giving up space...imagine that.

The boat/trailer will not be in the garage year round, so I conceded that it was not worth the hassle.

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Garage backs-up to two other finished rooms in the house.  Wife not real excited about giving up space...imagine that.

Do you have a teak swim platform? If so, convince the wife how nice a teak shelf will look in the room.

Back 'er on through, vacuum the drywall dust up, and put some nice pictures of your father in law on the new teak shelf.

That ought to make her happy...

BTW, I have backed the teak through the garage wall (no pictures to prove it) and let me tell you, it made the squarest hole I've ever seen poked in drywall...only took about three hours to patch up and paint...

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