Extreme trailer Rotors UFP DB35

[NvBoarder]

Okay so I have a 2006 extreme trialer with UFP trailer buddy disc brakes (DB35 5-lug) and I have the UFP trailer buddy gold series hub(Genuine oil lubrication design) One of my rotors is shot and I want to replace it and have the other ones turned and replace the pads. I pulled off the caliber but can not get the rotor to budge. The hub has the little allen screw in it to fill the oil for it and it looks like the rotor has a hole in it to line up with that one in the hub. At least that is my assumption. I looked on line for the rotor to hopefully get a better ideal of what part should stay on and what should come off. When I did a search I found two diffrent rotors one with oil bath and one with not. Well I don't really know what that means so I am unsure of which one I need. The second concern or problem is that they come with new bearings and seals. So that leads me to believe that they are pressed on some how, I guess, but I can't see how you would pull them with the plastic window that hold the oil for the hub. I am at a lost and really don't want to have to pay someone to do this but don't want to damage anything either. So any help on which rotor to order and how to remove the old ones would be great.

[Hangar Pilot]

Go to and call there customer service number. I've talked to them before and they were very helpful.

UFP

Joe

Okay so I have a 2006 extreme trialer with UFP trailer buddy disc brakes (DB35 5-lug) and I have the UFP trailer buddy gold series hub(Genuine oil lubrication design) One of my rotors is shot and I want to replace it and have the other ones turned and replace the pads. I pulled off the caliber but can not get the rotor to budge. The hub has the little allen screw in it to fill the oil for it and it looks like the rotor has a hole in it to line up with that one in the hub. At least that is my assumption. I looked on line for the rotor to hopefully get a better ideal of what part should stay on and what should come off. When I did a search I found two diffrent rotors one with oil bath and one with not. Well I don't really know what that means so I am unsure of which one I need. The second concern or problem is that they come with new bearings and seals. So that leads me to believe that they are pressed on some how, I guess, but I can't see how you would pull them with the plastic window that hold the oil for the hub. I am at a lost and really don't want to have to pay someone to do this but don't want to damage anything either. So any help on which rotor to order and how to remove the old ones would be great.

[UteBu]

I've talked to them before as well and they were very helpful.

BTW you have the oil bath hubs.

[NvBoarder]

Thanks for the replies, I got the info from my local trailer shop and they even had a rotor in stock so I am up and running again. Pulling the rotor sounds diffucult but it was pretty easy took about an hour and yes, you have to drain the hub, pull the bearings and seal. I will post some pics of the fried rotor but a tip for everybody. If you look at the rotors from the outside and they look good that might be a false reading crawl under the trailor and look at the rotors you might find a surprise. This is what happened to me.

[Pistol Pete]

What was the surprise? The rotor was blued on the inside? Metal to metal on the inside?

[WaveGAR]

With Disc brakes,,the inside pad allways goes down faster than the outside one.Watch the inside on cars, trucks as well!!

[NvBoarder]

Lets just say that I have replaced one rotor because their was nothing left of the inside braking surface and replaced all the brake pads because they where metal to metal, only one set the front left was just down to minimal pads. I will be replacing the other two rotors at the end of the year. I get to keep one of the original four rotors because it's still in good shape the other two will work until summer is over. Guess thats what happens when you drive 200-400 miles a week up and over the pass. No one to blame but myself guess I will be paying more attention to that now.

[WakeGirl]

You may want to check on a couple of things.

First, I've always been told that the calipers are self-adjusting, but maybe that's changed. When we were at Oroville, I could swear that I heard a sound like pads dragging when we launched one morning. Not sure that I heard it again after that, so I figured that maybe it was a fluke. Maybe it wasn't though.

Second, check to see if your tongue is completely dis-engaging. If it's not, it could be causing a little bit of drag on the pads.

Even with as much as you drive, I can't believe that those would be that torched. And with as much as you drive, I think that I'd look into a system that would give a little more control over that than the stock surge brakes give you.

[dihrdskir]

You may want to check on a couple of things.

First, I've always been told that the calipers are self-adjusting, but maybe that's changed. When we were at Oroville, I could swear that I heard a sound like pads dragging when we launched one morning. Not sure that I heard it again after that, so I figured that maybe it was a fluke. Maybe it wasn't though.

Second, check to see if your tongue is completely dis-engaging. If it's not, it could be causing a little bit of drag on the pads.

Even with as much as you drive, I can't believe that those would be that torched. And with as much as you drive, I think that I'd look into a system that would give a little more control over that than the stock surge brakes give you.

Consider electric over hydraulic. Although expensive, you gain the ability to proportion the brakes to what you require, you have the abilitiy to stop the trailer without touching the brake pedal and in the event of the trailer beocming uncoupled, it will stop by itself without damaging the tow vehicle

[skier92]

Here's a little info not really emphasized in the UFP series 60 & 70 coupler manual (assuming you have one of those) Called UFP wwhen I experienced a brake drag problem when boat & trailer were new. Was told that upon hooking up to tow ball, push trailer away from tow vehicle, then push up on release lever. Failure to do so can have brakes operating in a pre-set "applied" position, resulting in brake drag. Have never had a problem since.

[WakeGirl]

You may want to check on a couple of things.

First, I've always been told that the calipers are self-adjusting, but maybe that's changed. When we were at Oroville, I could swear that I heard a sound like pads dragging when we launched one morning. Not sure that I heard it again after that, so I figured that maybe it was a fluke. Maybe it wasn't though.

Second, check to see if your tongue is completely dis-engaging. If it's not, it could be causing a little bit of drag on the pads.

Even with as much as you drive, I can't believe that those would be that torched. And with as much as you drive, I think that I'd look into a system that would give a little more control over that than the stock surge brakes give you.

Consider electric over hydraulic. Although expensive, you gain the ability to proportion the brakes to what you require, you have the abilitiy to stop the trailer without touching the brake pedal and in the event of the trailer beocming uncoupled, it will stop by itself without damaging the tow vehicle

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. I've looked into that in the past & it seems that full electric isn't a good idea in a marine environment, but the electric over hydraulic is a really good compromise. With as much driving as NV does, it would be a good long term investment IMO.

[dihrdskir]

You may want to check on a couple of things.

First, I've always been told that the calipers are self-adjusting, but maybe that's changed. When we were at Oroville, I could swear that I heard a sound like pads dragging when we launched one morning. Not sure that I heard it again after that, so I figured that maybe it was a fluke. Maybe it wasn't though.

Second, check to see if your tongue is completely dis-engaging. If it's not, it could be causing a little bit of drag on the pads.

Even with as much as you drive, I can't believe that those would be that torched. And with as much as you drive, I think that I'd look into a system that would give a little more control over that than the stock surge brakes give you.

Consider electric over hydraulic. Although expensive, you gain the ability to proportion the brakes to what you require, you have the abilitiy to stop the trailer without touching the brake pedal and in the event of the trailer beocming uncoupled, it will stop by itself without damaging the tow vehicle

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. I've looked into that in the past & it seems that full electric isn't a good idea in a marine environment, but the electric over hydraulic is a really good compromise. With as much driving as NV does, it would be a good long term investment IMO.

Jerry @ waymires was able to set me up with a dexter electric over hydraulic system kit which is a basic upgrade and works very well with the DB 35's. Electric controller in the tow vehicle gives infinite adjustability and more braking performance than I'll ever need. Another advantage is being able to brake while reversing down very long gravel covered steep ramps.